1960-1966 Chevy & GMC Power Steering Retrofit - Make Your Classic Truck More Driveable

You’ve got to get the...        read full caption You’ve got to get the stock manual steering box out first. You can remove the drag link from the pitman arm with a special tool made just for the job, or if you’re a backyard mechanic like most, you can simply rap the arm on the side to break it loose. Do not hit the joint on the end or the threads in any way.

Here the link has popped loose....        read full caption Here the link has popped loose. You’re now ready to get the rest of the box loose.

The rag joint has a pinch...        read full caption The rag joint has a pinch collar that’s easy to get loose.

Four bolts hold the body of...        read full caption Four bolts hold the body of the steering box to the framerail. After they’re removed, you can take the box out of the way.

Here’s a good view: The...        read full caption Here’s a good view: The rag joint is still intact on the end of the steering shaft.

One of the mods you’ll...        read full caption One of the mods you’ll have to make is trimming the bumper bracket a bit for clearance. We chose to do this next. Taking the bracket off the truck is the easier way to go.

The top corner of the bracket...        read full caption The top corner of the bracket needs to be cut away to make clearance for the Rez Engineering bracket.

The power steering box that...        read full caption The power steering box that you’re installing in your truck is longer than the manual one you’re taking out. As a result, you will need to shorten the steering shaft. This is the part of the swap that causes the most anguish. Measure the amounts prescribed in the Rez Engineering instructions and mark them with a scribe.

You can cut the shaft with...        read full caption You can cut the shaft with any tool you’d like, but you should try to keep the cut square.

Take the short piece of shaft...        read full caption Take the short piece of shaft with the rag joint on the end into the shop and grind away the rivets that hold the two pieces of the rag joint together.

The shaft will need to be...        read full caption The shaft will need to be drilled out of the rag joint. We used a punch to give our drill a better chance of starting straight.

You don’t want to open...        read full caption You don’t want to open the hole up any more as you’re drilling the shaft out. Be careful.

One of the bolt holes has...        read full caption One of the bolt holes has to be drilled larger because you will mate this end of the stock rag joint with the other end of the rag joint from the power steering gearbox (and it has larger bolts).

The original steering shaft...        read full caption The original steering shaft end of the rag joint is joined with the new rag joint piece from the power steering box to check fitment.

We couldn’t get the piece...        read full caption We couldn’t get the piece to slip back over the steering shaft, so we put it in a lathe and cleaned up the hole. It then slipped on easily.

The piece is slipped onto...        read full caption The piece is slipped onto the steering shaft and located at the premarked spot. We tack-welded it into place and then had a certified welder finish welding it all the way around the shaft. Don’t take chances with your steering.

Now you’re ready for...        read full caption Now you’re ready for the Rez Engineering brackets. Bolt the outside bracket on with two of the existing holes in the frame.

The inside bracket slips up...        read full caption The inside bracket slips up behind the framerail.

The other two mounting holes...        read full caption The other two mounting holes have to be drilled out in the frame. The brackets serve as a guide.

If you use a power steering...        read full caption If you use a power steering box from ’68-’79, you won’t have to deal with O-ring hoses. We took everything off of one truck at Memory Lane Collector Car Dismantlers.

The lower front hole of the...        read full caption The lower front hole of the steering box must be drilled out to fit over the stud on the outside bracket.

Slip the box over the stud...        read full caption Slip the box over the stud and then work the supplied spacers in between the box and the frame (we ended up welding ours to the bracket) as you slide the bolts into the holes.

Use the pitman arm off of...        read full caption Use the pitman arm off of the new power steering box.

The pitman arm may not want...        read full caption The pitman arm may not want to slip right in. We ended up taking the drag link apart to get the arm on the steering box, and then put the drag link back together.

Once the arm was in place,...        read full caption Once the arm was in place, it was time to put the nut back on. Don’t forget the cotter pin!

We ran the hoses under the...        read full caption We ran the hoses under the inner fender and directly to the power steering pump.

Here’s the unit all hooked...        read full caption Here’s the unit all hooked up and ready to go for a spin! You won’t believe the difference in driving your classic truck with power steering compared to the old manual labor routine. CCT

So you love your classic truck, except for the fact that it’s just too hard to drive with the manual steering. Relax. For owners of ’60-’66 Chevy and GMC pickups, there’s a solution. Rez Engineering has developed a kit that allows you to retrofit a power steering box to your truck. All it takes is a power box from a ’68 to ’84 ½-ton two-wheel-drive truck, a pump, and the brackets and instructions from Rez Engineering. Oh, it will take you a little time and effort, too, but you’d better believe the results are worth it. Let’s check it out.