19. I first tacked the bottom edge of each shock tower to the top of the framerail before removing the jig that we installed a few steps back. Then I used a four-foot level to ensure that the shock towers were perfectly level before tacking the sides of each shock tower as well.
20. You can see the angle of the bottom of the shock tower that Fatman set up from the factory in order to simplify the installation and ensure that the suspension retains an anti-dive characteristic.
21. At this point, it's time to put the gloves, jacket, and helmet back on and get to welding. I'm going to leave the sections of tubing tacked to the framerail until we're done welding, just in case.
22. After an hour or three of welding and grinding, we're almost ready to start bolting on suspension components. Note the absence of those two pieces of tubing tacked to the frame at this point as well as the gussets I added to the bottom of the shock tower.
23. I hit the chassis with a coat of flat black as I thought we were done with the fab work, but I forgot one important step; the framerail C-notches for the rack-and-pinion steering. These are necessary in order to give clearance to the rack-and-pinion steering on lowered setups such as ours.
24. First, the steering centerline is determined with the rack-and-pinion installed on the crossmember.
25. Then, the shape of the provided C-notch is traced onto both sides of each framerail so that it can be cut out using a plasma cutter.
26. With the steel trimmed away, the C-notch can be clamped in place and welded up.
27. A few minutes cleanup with a grinder leaves the C-notch area looking nice and clean. At this point, we're ready to start bolting up those new suspension components next month.