It's always interesting how one aspect of a project affects another. Deciding to slap a supercharger on our LS327 engine is a great example of this, though probably a bit on the exaggerated side. Obviously, our plans of using a simple four-barrel carb and intake were out the door, as was the plan to keep it simple with only a small ECU to control the timing. One thing led to another and here we are setting up a drive-by-wire throttle pedal and throttle body.
When the parts showed up thanks to Carl Lutes and the guys over at Guaranty Chevrolet in Santa Ana, California, one thing was certain: we needed to swap out the plastic pedal pad. A quick email to Brian Downard at Lokar got us squared away with one of their new black billet aluminum Direct Fit pedal pads. When Brian asked what we were planning on using for the brake and clutch pedals, I told him we were planning on keeping them stock. He mentioned that Lokar was coming out with a Direct Fit line of pedals arms that would drop right in and replace the 1967-72 C10 stockers. Designed to match the throttle pedal pad we were now planning on using, the billet aluminum design would also lend the contemporary performance that the inside of our cab needed.
I had also planned on replacing all of the truck's brake lines since we hadn't done so when we did the first iteration of the build a few years back. The master cylinder was also showing its age, and since I needed to add a small master cylinder to actuate the new hydraulic clutch, I figured I might as well replace the brake master with a unit that matches the clutch.
Several guys around the office swear by their manual master cylinder brake setups on their street cars so I figured I'd give the guys at Wilwood a call to see what the ticket is to getting a nice pedal feel without sacrificing stopping power or effectiveness. Turns out the key to achieving a good, firm pedal without a bunch of leg effort is to start with a pedal ratio of at least 6:1, which is the ratio of Lokar's Direct Fit pedal arms. From there, it's a simple matter of matching the requirements of the front and rear brakes to the master cylinder bore. For our 1968, that turned out to be a 7⁄8-inch master to feed the 13-inch front and 11-inch rear disc brakes.
Installing the brake and clutch pedals couldn't have went any smoother, while the throttle pedal needed to be modified slightly before it would bolt up to a fresh set of holes drilled in the firewall. The brake master cylinder bolted up to the existing lower studs and slid right up against the firewall without issue, but the clutch master cylinder, being an added part, required another set of fresh holes to be marked and drilled out on the firewall. A custom linkage set to mate the pedals with their respective masters and we soon had ourselves a pedal setup whose performance will be the envy of any sports car and looks good to boot!