Tilt Steering Column Install - Tilt And Turn...

Removing the column is a fairly simple task.

First, the emergency brake handle is removed, followed by the steering column retaining plate.

Inside the engine compartment, the firewall retaining plate is unbolted from the firewall and the clamp that secures the column is loosened.

Last but not least, the wiring harness is disconnected.

Here’s a beautiful chrome version of the same Retrofit Series tilt column we’re using from ididit. These columns feature an eight-position tilt, stock GM-style 3 7⁄8-inch wiring harness, 3/4-36 output spline, four-way flashers, self-canceling turn signals, knobs and handles, and are compatible to stock GM steering wheels as well as a number of three-, five-, six-, and nine-bolt steering wheels via an adapter.

We opted for the less blingy, plain steel version, so it will have to be painted before we install it in the truck. For this, we’re using the same Eastwood Hugger Orange two-stage paint that we used last month to squirt the steering wheel.

Before we install the new column its necessary to inspect and replace a few components as necessary. For these, we went to one of the largest reproduction parts houses in the world, LMC Truck. The seals at the top and bottom of the stock column were thrashed, so we decided to play it safe and ordered not only the floor and upper seal, but the lower seal retainer as well.

Since ididit’s Retrofit Series columns are designed to stock specs, it was a simple matter of sliding the column into place and deciding how far from the dash to locate the steering wheel. I decided to go with the same measurement as stock.

Here, the lower seal and retainer is installed as well as the lower column mount and clamp. Note the amount of stickout on the firewall side; there is plenty of room to move the column either closer or farther from the driver if one is so inclined.

To mate the bottom of the column to the rag joint sleeve assembly on the box, a 3/4-36x3/4DD stainless steel vibration reducer U-joint is used combined with a length of 3/4DD shaft. The first step is to determine the length of the DD shaft by sliding the U-joint onto the output shaft of the column and measuring the distance from the 3/4DD end to the rag joint sleeve assembly attached to the box.

Since the rag joint sleeve assembly is designed as a slip shaft, allowing the DD shaft to collapse inside of it, figuring out the length the DD shaft needed to be was a simple matter of making it just long enough, ensuring there was a good 6 inches or so inside the sleeve assembly.

When I initially installed the U-joint and shaft, I tightened the set screws just enough to mark the surface of the shaft. Then, I used a 1/4-inch drill bit to dimple the shaft, providing a recess for the set screws to bite into.

I did the same process on the section of the DD shaft that is inside the sleeve assembly to prevent it from working loose and dropping inside.

Be sure to use Loctite on the set screws as well as the lock nuts to keep them from working free!

Here’s the final assembly of the steering shaft, from column to rag joint sleeve.

With the newly restored wheel installed, you can see the difference in positions. From stock…

…to the full “up” position…

…to the full “down” position.

Mating the stock steering column to a new power steering box is just as easy as using a new column.

All that’s required is the DD shaft on the end of the column be cut and everything below that removed (stock manual box included of course!).

Then a 3/4DDx3/4DD U-joint is mated to the stock lower shaft of the column.

The same rag joint sleeve assembly is used at the box side…

…and it’s the same technique to mate the two, a simple section of DD shaft.