In preparation for installing the LS327 engine, I’m trying as hard as I can to get all my ducks in a row so it will be a simple matter of dropping the engine and transmission between the framerails and plugging the components in before the C10 is back up and running. So far, the induction and exhaust components are ready to rock and the engine is looking the part, but there are a few more things to tidy up before it’s time to bolt the powerhouse in place.
One thing that needs to be sorted out is the front drive. In LS jargon, that translates to the A/C compressor, alternator, and power steering brackets as well as the related pulleys, crank, and water pump notwithstanding. If we were using a junkyard rescue engine, those accessories would most likely be factory retained items, though there may be a clearance issue amongst some applications. Since our LS327 crate engine comes shipped as a long block, however, it’s devoid of the factory components. Therefore it’s necessary to either track down the factory items from a wrecking yard or install an aftermarket front drive kit.
The first step to installing...
The first step to installing the S-Drive kit is to install the ATI crank hub, damper, and pulley. The LS engines use a torque-to-yield bolt to hold the hub in place on the snout of the crank. Therefore, the hub-to-crank fit is rather tight and requires the hub to be pressed into service. Since we’re using an aluminum ATI hub, a quick bath in boiling water will allow it to expand slightly, making the fit not so tight. The secret to driving a new hub on an LS crank is to use an LS7 crank bolt, which is slightly longer than the standard LS fare and isn’t a torque-to-yield bolt. The LS7 bolt drives the hub on as far as possible, then with a used torque-to-yield bolt, the hub can then be driven on the remainder of the way with a final torque to 240 ft-lbs. The used bolt is then removed and a new torque-to-yield fastener is installed, torqued to 37 ft-lbs, followed by a second pass to 140 degrees. A tedious process, but this ensures that the hub is properly seated and torqued to spec.
We opted to go with the latter since it allowed us to use simple, off-the-shelf aftermarket components instead of trying to figure out what year/make/model each accessory, bracket, or pulley originated from. Going with an aftermarket kit ensured that everything would work together without the guessing game of combining different components meant for different applications.
At the end of the day, Eddie Motorsports’ S-Drive serpentine kit is what we decided would fit the project best, given its totality in which it covers all aspects of the front drive setup from crank hub to serpentine belt. Eddie Motorsports really set out to cover all aspects of mounting the accessories up to an LS engine, including every bracket, nut, bolt, stud, washer, spacer, and component necessary to get the engine up and running. I like that because it takes the guesswork out of the equation completely, and for someone like me, that’s a godsend. CCT
With the hub installed, I...
With the hub installed, I opted to tackle the task of pinning the crank while the engine was on a stand in anticipation of having to do it in the future. Since most of the LS engines don’t have a traditional keyway on the crank hub, this is necessary in supercharged applications to keep the hub from spinning on the crank. The plan is to eventually bolt on a blower, so I figured it’d be easier to tackle now rather than later when the engine is in the truck. There are a handful of kits out there to pin the LS crank, I happened to have the type that pins it from the front rather than the side.
Using the provided drill bit...
Using the provided drill bit and jig, a hole is drilled through the center of the parting line between the hub and the crank, leaving a crescent shaped hole in each. The kit also includes a reamer, which follows the drill bit, leaving a hole slightly under 1/4 inch. This allows a 1/4-inch roll pin to fit snugly in place, effectively locating and securing the hub to the crank when it comes to rotational torque.
With the crank hub sorted,...
With the crank hub sorted, it’s time to start the S-Drive installation beginning with the water pump studs. Three M8x92mm studs are installed on the passenger side with 3 inches of stick-out, while the driver side receives two M8x118mm studs with 4 inches of stick-out from the block. Since the hardware included in the S-Drive kit is stainless, we’ll be using anti-seize on all the fasteners unless otherwise noted.
Next, the provided Edelbrock...
Next, the provided Edelbrock high-flow aluminum water pump is slid into place with the gaskets installed.
To hold the water pump in...
To hold the water pump in place and to locate the A/C compressor bracket, three 3/4x2.55-inch spacers are installed on the passenger-side studs.
Things are a bit different...
Things are a bit different on the driver side since the rear alternator bracket is installed first, followed by a pair of 3/4x1.41-inch spacers and an M8x95mm cap screw.
Next, the rear A/C compressor bracket is attached to the ears of the water pump using two M10x20mm cap screws.
At this point, it’s necessary...
At this point, it’s necessary to install the thermostat and water neck…
…before the A/C bracket can...
…before the A/C bracket can be installed using three M8x25mm cap screws to mate it to the three spacer posts.
With the bracket in place,...
With the bracket in place, the provided Sanden A/C compressor can now be installed using two M8x25mm cap screws at the front and the lower shoulder bolt. At this time, the five M8 cap screws can be tightened up.