I’ve covered a handful of upgrades made to the project C10 over the last couple of months but by far the biggest improvements I’ve made have been to the suspension. Granted, the ’60s Chevy trucks had a pretty modern independent suspension system for trucks of their era, given their Ford equivalent were sitting on I-beam axles still. I’ve always said that one of the reasons that there are so many ’67-72 Chevys still on the road is that the foundation of those trucks, in a general sense, leaves little to be desired when it comes to mechanical creature comforts. By 1972, power steering, disc brakes, and even air conditioning were pretty standard modus operandi. That meant upgrading your ’67 or ’68 five to ten years later to all the modern features of a new car or truck of that era was a matter of simply swapping parts. A little maintenance and upkeep and there’s little reason for getting rid of a well-running work truck.
But when it came to modifying the original components in the form of, say, lowering it, there was a lot left to be desired. Heated or cut coils got the job done but didn’t necessarily do it right. The geometry changed as did the ride quality. What used to be a nice, soft riding truck became a bouncy, rough riding covered wagon. And today, that’s just unacceptable.
Enter Classic Performance Products (CPP). They’ve nurtured a market that has, until recently, been largely ignored by the performance-minded suspension companies by developing a whole slew of parts designed strictly to make that old truck ride, handle, and perform to today’s standards. From tubular control arms, to Nitrogen shocks, to oversized brakes, they’ve developed a product line designed to take our classic trucks and give those more performance minded muscle car guys a run for their money.
When I started the C10 build, I knew I wanted to lower the truck, but I also planned on driving it in a daily fashion and wanted to experience the latest and greatest suspension setup that CPP had to offer. They recommended their Zero Offset SOS Big Brake Grand Slam kit combined with a set of their Totally Tubular control arms. This setup is good for a full 2½-inch drop, thanks to the Modular dropped spindle and combined with a 2-inch drop coil spring, the front of my C10 should sit nice and low. Plans call for installing a set of 17-inch Rocket Racing Wheels’ Boosters at all four corners shod in 235/55R17 Coker Redline tires. At 27.17 inches, that tire/wheel combo should work great with the amount of drop planned and the big 13-inch rotors will fit nicely and provide plenty of stopping power, upwards of 30 less feet from 60-0 mph.
I’ve had a chance to drive the truck for a few months now with all the new suspension components installed and let me tell you, it’s like driving a totally different vehicle! One of the hardest things that I’ve had to overcome was the initial tendency to drive it like I did before I made all the upgrades. Slowing down to ten miles an hour to take a turn or braking half a mile from an intersection is a thing of the past. In fact, I’ve scared my wife a few times as she was used to the way the truck handled previously and forgot that it stops and handles a hundred times better than it ever did before.
Next month I’ll wrap up the back half and unveil what the C10 looks like down on the ground after the CPP makeover. I think you’ll dig it! CCT
CPP’s new Modular 2 1/2-inch...
CPP’s new Modular 2 1/2-inch drop spindles combined with their 13-inch drilled and slotted rotors and four-piston calipers will get the C10 down nice and low with plenty of stopping power. Their spindle is designed to narrow the front track width 2 1/2-inches when used with a number of popular brake kits, which allows for the use of larger diameter tires and wheels so prevalent today.
Of course, I can’t get started...
Of course, I can’t get started with all the stock suspension components hanging under the truck, so I’ve got to remove them first. A Haynes manual is a great resource when it comes to disassembling any truck.
With the suspension and steering...
With the suspension and steering components out of the way, a quick cleaning was in order before I sprayed the chassis and crossmember with some satin black spray paint.
One of the recommendations...
One of the recommendations the guys over at CPP had was to install a pair of their upper shock mount reinforcing tabs. Worn out mounting bosses was a common problem with these trucks once the shock mounting stud worked itself loose.
The reinforcing brackets work...
The reinforcing brackets work by supporting the outside end of the shock stud, preventing it from moving. With the bracket bolted to the shock stud, two 3⁄8-inch holes are drilled through the frame rail using the bracket as a guide.
The brackets are then attached...
The brackets are then attached to the frame using the provided hardware.
The stock control arms were...
The stock control arms were pretty worked, as were the ball joints and cross shafts. I crunched some numbers and figured it would be more beneficial to step up and replace them with CPP’s Totally Tubular upper and lower control arms to not only solve the sloppy suspension components but to further the performance envelope of the truck.
CPP’s Totally Tubular control...
CPP’s Totally Tubular control arms are designed with five degrees of caster while still functioning with full wheel travel, which yields an easy return to center steering design and improved straight line stability. Their oversized diameter results in less flex for a stiffer (and sportier!) suspension design while the self lubricating bushings will outlast any rubber or urethane. Late model, heavy duty ball joints also add a bit of brute to the overall setup and are easily replaced when the time comes down the road.
Both the upper and lower control...
Both the upper and lower control arm kits come complete with billet 4140-alloy steel cross shafts and sleeves that are zinc plated for lasting performance.
The sleeves also feature an...
The sleeves also feature an interlocking design that prevents the hardware from ever working loose. Best yet, they’re a direct bolt-in, requiring no modifications and work with all factory and replacement power steering systems.
Drop coil springs will be...
Drop coil springs will be used to get the nose down an additional 2 1/2 inches for a total drop of 4 1/2 inches.
Attaching the modular spindle...
Attaching the modular spindle to the lower control arm ball joint, inserting the drop spring, and then compressing the spring using a spring compressor allows the top ball joint to be attached.
Here, you can see the new...
Here, you can see the new CPP nitrogen gas shock attached to the lower control arm and the upper reinforcing tab, as well as the business end of the suspension components. Simple, yet very effective.
With the suspension wrapped...
With the suspension wrapped up, it’s time to install the brakes. High-temp grease is used to pack the wheel bearings before the aluminum hubs are installed.
Three major components make...
Three major components make up the braking system at each wheel; a rotor, caliper, and mounting bracket. I’m using a 5x4 3/4-inch Chevy passenger car bolt pattern at all four corners on my truck so that my wheel options are vast.
The caliper bracket attaches...
The caliper bracket attaches to the modular spindle using the provided 5⁄8-inch hardware, torqued to 154 lb-ft.
The rotor is then slid onto...
The rotor is then slid onto the hub, followed by the caliper, which attaches to the bracket using 5⁄8-inch hardware torqued to 154 lb-ft as well. Note that the bleeder screw is at the top of the caliper.
Since we have drum brakes...
Since we have drum brakes out back and discs up front, I opted to use CPP’s OEM-style master cylinder/power booster combo. It comes complete with the proper proportioning valve and just needs to be plumbed into the braking system.
I’ll be using a CPP brake...
I’ll be using a CPP brake line kit from each wheel up to the master cylinder but before it can be installed, it’s necessary to bench bleed it to get the air out of each reservoir.
A good suspension system isn’t...
A good suspension system isn’t complete without a good sway bar and CPP’s heavy duty version, made from 1 1/4-inch steel tubing, is a complimentary component to the rest of their suspension line. Their kit comes complete with the sway bar, urethane bushings, end links, frame mounting brackets, and Grade 8 hardware.
The sway bar mounting brackets...
The sway bar mounting brackets attach to the chassis using preexisting holes. Two of them however are occupied by rivets, which need to be removed. An air chisel makes quick work out of the rivets.
To install the sway bar, first...
To install the sway bar, first the end links are assembled while the center of the sway bar rests on a jack stand.
Here are the sway bar brackets...
Here are the sway bar brackets that mount to the framerails. Since I lowered the front of the truck, CPP recommended running their lowered brackets.
Compared with the stock unit...
Compared with the stock unit on the left and I can see why. The lowered brackets tuck the sway bar up nice and tight to the framerail, increasing ground clearance.
Bolted to the existing holes...
Bolted to the existing holes in the framerail, I used the jackstand to lift the sway bar into place where the clamp and urethane bushing mated the two together.
And there you have it! From...
And there you have it! From stock to sport in about two days time.
Here’s a sneak peek at the...
Here’s a sneak peek at the tire/wheel combo I’ve got planned for the C10. A bit of traditional styling with a hint of contemporary aesthetic thrown in for good measure, the Custom Classic Trucks maxim if ever there was one!