Air Conditioning Install - Creature Comforts On Ice

Next, the #8 hard line is attached to the top of the condenser while the #6 hard line is mated to the left side of the dryer. Both hard lines pass through the 1 1/4-inch hole in the core support we made a few steps back. Be sure to install the provided grommet to prevent the lines from rubbing against the sheetmetal.

We also installed the binary switch on the drier at this time. Once wired, this will disengage the compressor clutch in case of an extreme low pressure condition (refrigerant loss) or excessively high head pressure ( 406 psi), to prevent costly compressor damage or hose rupture. If we were running an electric fan, we’d use a trinary switch, which combines the high/low pressure protection with an electric fan operation signal at 254 psi. These switches are extremely important as the a/c system relies on refrigerant to carry lubrication through the system.

The #8 and #6 hard lines that pass through the core support end just aft of the battery tray and are supported by a clamp and bracket provided in the kit. A 9⁄32-inch hole needs to be drilled in the bottom of the tray to mount the bracket to.

Like the other brackets on our 307 engine, we’ll be using Alan Grove Components to mount the provided Sanden A/C compressor.

Like the other brackets on our 307 engine, we’ll be using Alan Grove Components to mount the provided Sanden A/C compressor.

Next, our attention is turned inside the cab. First the heater assembly and related defrost ducting was removed, followed by the glovebox and door, stereo, and heater control panel.

The new defrost hose adapters attach to the stock ducts by way of a pair of S-clips. The round adapter goes on the driver’s side duct while the oval attaches to the duct opposite.

It’s necessary to remove the dash pad in order to cut the hole for the center louver duct. Measure twice, cut once as it’s tricky to get the location just right due to the curvature of the dash. I cut the hole slightly undersized and filed it just right to get the louver in just the right spot.

The louver is held to the dash using two 1/4-inch studs that attach to the duct on the backside of the dash.

For the side louvers, Vintage Air provides a template for drilling the hole necessary for the ball louvers. Mark the hole with the template in place, check the location using the ball louver to ensure it will clear the door, etc., then drill the hole using a 2 1/2-inch hole saw.

Here’s the ball louver installed with the “war wounds” from when the hole saw grabbed the back side of the dash. Unbeknownst to me, there is a small section of metal that overlaps the back side of the dash. When the hole saw cut through the first layer of sheetmetal, it grabbed the second layer, causing it to jump and nick the dash. These marks of personality blend in with the rest on the truck, but if this were a nicely painted cab, we’d be bummin’. Take note and take heed!

Before we install the evaporator, it’s necessary to fill the voids on the firewall left from the removal of the stock heater assembly. Thankfully, Vintage Air provides the necessary hardware to see this through. First, a bead of silicone is applied to the fresh air cap before it’s installed using the provided hardware.

Next the firewall cover is installed in the same manner using a handful of OEM holes.

Once the firewall cover is in place, the respective grommets can be installed. Note the two 9⁄32-inch holes (upper left, lower middle) that have been drilled through the firewall using the cover as a template. These will be used to mount the evaporator when we pick back up next month.