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Chevrolet Cab Repair - Save-A-CabTwo Corners and a Cowl From the July, 2011 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Gerry Burger
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Let’s face it; we are not about to run out of 1948-1955 Chevrolet truck cabs anytime soon. These trucks were produced in huge numbers, and due to their sound construction, many of them survive today. Having said that, very few have survived unscathed and finding a cherry cab is becoming ever more difficult. Mother Nature and use as a daily work vehicle has taken a toll on many of these trucks, but you may be surprised at just how easy it is to save one of these cabs. The cab we are repairing is typical of a 1951 Chevrolet truck, probably a bit above average condition with the only rust being found in the rear corners of the cab and a few pinholes in the lower cowl. However, the thing that made many people pass on the truck was the cowl damage. It seems that some time in this truck’s storied past, the passenger-side door was left open while the owner was backing up. The door impacted an immovable object and that sprung the door into the cowl. This did several things, it ruined the door and put a hurting on the cowl and lower A-pillar and, of course, the door no longer closed properly. At first glance it looked like Burt Whittington’s cab might be a major project to repair, with visions of extensive jacking of the cab and other assorted complications, but the crew at Rodcrafters, in Welcome, North Carolina, assured him this would be a pretty straightforward repair. As it turns out, the repair was really a simple panel replacement, with a twist. The good news for lover’s of early Chevrolet trucks is that you can purchase every panel and inner brace for these cabs, and for those of you who prefer to work with new, yes, you can now purchase an entire brand-new steel cab too. However, we simply ordered two rear cab corners to repair the rust, and one complete passenger-side cowl panel to repair the cab from the door impact from Obsolete Chevy Parts, in Nashville, Georgia. Burt Whittington supplied a good pair of 1949 Chevrolet truck doors to complete the repair. The cowl repair begins by first melting the factory lead out of the seam, drilling out spot-welds and chiseling the panel off. Next, using a homebrewed tool the lower A-pillar was twisted back into shape and then the new cowl section was installed with special attention to fitting the new door. The cab corners are straightforward rust repair with a simple cut and replace method being used. We found it interesting that Chris Mishoe, at Rodcrafters, chooses not to cut up to the full height of the patch panel, rather he removes all traces of the rusted area and then cuts the patch panel to match. The thought being should the cab ever be damaged in that area again, there would be room to cut above this seam and add more of another patch panel. All the work was performed at Rodcrafters, while the team is skilled professionals, this is a repair that is well within reach of any home truck builder who has access to basic welding tools. Armed with the following photos, patience, and basic sheetmetal skills you might be surprised at how easy it is to save a cab. CCT  This Chevrolet cab has typical...  This Chevrolet cab has typical rear corner rust, but damage from the passenger-side door contacting the cowl area means the cab will require door replacement and cowl repair. The repair is easier than you might think.  It appears the passenger-side...  It appears the passenger-side door was open when the truck was backing up and came in contact with an immovable object that sprung the door into the cowl, bending the lower A-pillar in the process.  This is all that was required...  This is all that was required to repair the cab, three patch panels from Obsolete Chevy Parts. These panels are high quality with a perfect fit. The key is to install them properly.  Chris Mishoe, of Rodcrafters...  Chris Mishoe, of Rodcrafters begins by melting the lead out of the factory seam. A simple propane torch and a gasket scrapper make short work of removing the lead.  The lower cowl panel fits...  The lower cowl panel fits under the upper cowl sheetmetal and a generous number of spot-welds hold the panels in place.  With the bulk of the lead...  With the bulk of the lead melted, a wire brush and a bit more heat eliminate the remainder of the lead. You cannot make a good weld with lead still on the steel panel.  Next, Chris uses an air chisel...  Next, Chris uses an air chisel to cut the old, bent cowl panel out. By removing the center sheetmetal first, he’s able to use prybars under the spot-welded perimeter metal.  The first cut is made just...  The first cut is made just inside the edge of the A-pillar. Keeping the chisel on an angle ensures that the flange on the doorjamb is not damaged.  With the cowl skin peeled...  With the cowl skin peeled back you can see the flanged portion of the doorjamb pillar. The sheetmetal that wraps around the corner must be removed too.  With the cowl panel removed,...  With the cowl panel removed, you can see why many people were afraid to buy this cab because of this damage. The passenger door was also scrapped due to damage, but an original 1950 door was found to fill the void.  To remove the remaining sheetmetal,...  To remove the remaining sheetmetal, the spot-welds must drilled out. A spot-weld cutter works best for this operation. There were a surprising number of welds holding the panel in place.  The drilling of spot-welds...  The drilling of spot-welds continues around the entire perimeter of the panel. The patch panel goes around to the face of the firewall making removal a bit more complicated.  The sheetmetal is now removed...  The sheetmetal is now removed from the door pillar flange, an air chisel helps persuade the sheetmetal to break loose. Surface rust between the panels is common, but since we will be spot-welding the new panel, painting the flange is not an option.  A gasket scraper or chisel...  A gasket scraper or chisel is used to wedge the upper cowl panel free from the lower panel. Work slowly and carefully to minimize stretching the upper sheetmetal.  Chris uses a slide hammer...  Chris uses a slide hammer to pull the remaining portion of the old cowl panel out from under the upper cowl. It proved to be a pretty stubborn piece to remove.  The piece finally broke free....  The piece finally broke free. Notice there were almost a dozen spot-welds that needed to be drilled out prior to removal of this piece. No wonder these old trucks lasted so many years.  After being certain all the...  After being certain all the spot-welds were drilled out, Chris uses the trusty air chisel to peel off the remaining sheetmetal from the door pillar.  Bits of weld and sheetmetal...  Bits of weld and sheetmetal remain on the inner structure. A quick touch with a grinder dresses off the high spots so the new panel will fit flush to the flange.  It took some time and effort,...  It took some time and effort, but finally the old cowl panel is completely removed and the spot-weld remnants have been ground smooth. As you can see, beyond the cowl damage this is a very solid, old truck.  Looking from the side, you...  Looking from the side, you can see the lower portion of the A-pillar is twisted toward the front of the cab. Since this portion of the pillar mounts the door, it is a pretty stout piece; but it can be bent with some leverage.  Our first attempt was to use...  Our first attempt was to use a simple dent puller or slide hammer but it just wasn’t quite up to the task. Chris decided to design his own tool to tweak the door pillar back in shape.  A 4-inch–wide piece of ¼-inch...  A 4-inch–wide piece of ¼-inch plate steel was bent over on one end and a hole was cut in the other end for a prybar. The bent end slips over the lip of the door pillar and a piece of 2 X 4 distributes the load during the bending process. Bend a little, then check door fitment until you get it right.  A little hammer and dolly...  A little hammer and dolly work, with the proper spoon-style dolly, brings the upper cowl metal back into shape. This shaping will allow the new panel to slip under the existing upper cowl metal.  Slipping the replacement panel...  Slipping the replacement panel under the cowl takes a little work, but the fit on these Obsolete Chevy Parts is amazingly good.  Fitting just like the original,...  Fitting just like the original, the cab is now straight and the A-pillar is aligned to accept a door again. Bolts will be used in the fender mounting holes to hold the panel perfectly in place.  Before spot-welding the new...  Before spot-welding the new panel in place Chris likes to do a final fitting of the door. Running a tap through the door receiver plates will insure the bolts thread in smoothly.  When you consider the doors...  When you consider the doors are from a donor truck, it is pretty amazing how well they fit the car. A little bit of tweaking was done to the door frame prior to this final fit. Note the cowl panel is now held in place with the fender bolts.  After setting the door gaps...  After setting the door gaps perfectly, Chris takes a close look at the profile of the door skin to be certain it aligns perfectly with the new cowl panel and the rear portion of the cab.  Satisfied that the new cowl...  Satisfied that the new cowl panel and door are both perfectly located, Chris wields the MIG welder and spot-welds the panel in place. All the time spent making seemingly minor adjustments to the panels now will save a lot of work later.  After spot-welding a little...  After spot-welding a little work with the grinder is in order to smooth out the seams.  If it wasn’t for the black...  If it wasn’t for the black coating on the new panel one might think this was a factory panel with the lead melted out. We cannot overstate how impressed we were with the fit and quality of these pieces.  After repairing the cowl section,...  After repairing the cowl section, replacing the rear cab corners would be a relatively simple operation. The top tape line is the top of the patch panel, while the lower tape line is where Chris will make his cut.  Chris cuts well above the...  Chris cuts well above the rusted areas to solid metal, but prefers not to use the entire patch panel. He also cuts his line on a contour, saying it seems to help minimize warping during the welding process. If there is structural rust inside the cab corner, now is the time to repair it with replacement panels.  After cutting the corner of...  After cutting the corner of the cab the patch panel is held in place and marked from inside the cab. Once again, note the perfect contours of the replacement panel.  The patch panel is now cut...  The patch panel is now cut to match the opening in the cab corner using a cut-off wheel and die grinder.  A test fit show the initial...  A test fit show the initial cut is very close to perfect, a small bit of grinding where the patch panel wraps around the doorjamb will close the gap perfectly.  Satisfied with the fit of...  Satisfied with the fit of the panel, Chris tack welds the piece in place with a MIG welder. Alternating tack-weld points from front to rear minimizes warping of the panel.  The new cab corner fits perfectly,...  The new cab corner fits perfectly, note the proper contour where it meets the door. At this point the cab is basically rust-free and repaired.  Finish welding and grinding...  Finish welding and grinding completes the cab corner repair. A thin coat of your favorite body filler, lead or plastic, will finish the panel perfectly. This is a repair that is well within the reach of most backyard truck builders.  And here it is, one complete...  And here it is, one complete cab with perfect fit, no rust and ready to be finished and painted. The key to this high level of work is patience and taking the time to make sure everything fits perfectly prior to picking up the welder. Minimal bodywork will be required to finish this truck cab.
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The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
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