Fixing A 1966 Chevrolet C10 - Patina Control

This view from above shows the deterioration that happens after 45 years to the original factory caulking in the driprails. Needless to say the old caulking is un-capable of preventing water leakage into the cab, and causing rust.

A ¼-inch cold chisel fits snug into the and works well to knock the old caulking out of the channel. An 1/8-inch cold chisel works great for getting at specific cling-ons.

Look close and you’ll notice a tiny pinhole has begun to form. Ignore something like this long enough and you’ll be needing a new roof.

The only thing nastier looking might be a Hanoi sewer trench. Notice when the driprail is bent the caulking doesn’t conform, and rust has formed everywhere.

A pair of “duckbill” pliers makes easy work out of straightening bent driprails. Squeeze the pliers in place, and slide along the channel to straighten it out like new.

Mothers California Gold car wash is safe to use with bare hands and worked great to dissolve dirt and crud stuck to the old paint after a quick cleanout with 40-grit sandpaper.

Before pumping new caulking into the driprails, I spray painted the channels with flat white Rust-Oleum.

I’m not telling you guys to do this, but I ignored Rust-Oleum’s instructions to thin for spraying up to 15 percent, and thinned the paint with as much acetone as needed to make the Rust-Oleum spray properly. This stuff sells for under $9.00 at Home Depot.

I sprayed the ’66 in my driveway on the day the nuclear fallout from Japan was scheduled to arrive in California. I don’t think I got any overspray on the neighbor’s cars it must have been “nuke dust” that landed on them.