At the heart of every vehicular electrical system is the battery and charging system. Without the charging system operating properly, most if not all vehicles simply cease operating. That case is compounded even further in a truck where computers control many of the vital functions that weren't found in vehicles thirty or so years ago. And with today's vast aftermarket making it easier and more desirable to install such components as fuel injection or electronic transmission controls, a hearty, reliable charging system is more important than ever.
But what makes for a great charging system? The answer is simple really, well, actually it's quite difficult. Typically, the amperage draw from one truck to another can vary greatly. An LS1 powered, computer controlled pickup with three 100-amp stereo amplifiers, air compressors for the suspension, an electric fan, and air conditioning is definitely going to need a slightly beefier charging system than a truck with a carbureted 350 and a four-speed with no bells and whistles. But the nuts and bolts of both systems will be nearly identical.
Firstly a good strong battery is an obvious necessity. And while there are a myriad of batteries and battery types available now days, most of us still compare the ratings of batteries by CCAs or cold-cranking amps. In the past, it was a "bigger is better" mentality when it came to picking a battery for a custom application. These days, however, companies such as Optima Batteries have taken battery science into the space age with such advances as their proprietary Spiralcell technology, which yields a stronger, lighter, and smaller battery that has a dual-purpose start and deep-duty cycle all enclosed in a leak-free case.
Charging systems have also never been more advanced, with alternators now capable of making upwards of 120 amps in a relatively small package size. Add to that, what companies such as Powermaster Motorsports offers in their line of PowerGEN alternators that package a 75-amp alternator in an old-timey, generator-looking housing and you've got the best of both worlds.
But the charging system is really only as good as the ties that bind it together; or in the case of an electrical system, the wires and battery cables. Things such as good, solid connections and proper gauge wire sizes make all the difference in the world when it comes to voltage drop and system reliability, especially when finicky computers are in the mix.
But it doesn't take a genius to set up a proper charging and electrical system, just a couple of tips from the professionals and some good, old-fashion elbow grease. We recently contacted Painless Performance to update an antiquated electrical system and found that they also offer a couple of security options that give piece of mind when it comes to not only maintaining and operating that classic truck, but also protecting it.
Here is the remote-battery...
Here is the remote-battery junction terminal kit that we'll be using to go through the floor. This kit includes one positive (red) and one negative (black) terminal block with 3/8-inch studs that allows for the connection of battery cables through a bulkhead-a safe and convenient way to create attaching points for cables anywhere in the vehicle, such as the cab floor or the firewall.
A remote-master disconnect...
A remote-master disconnect with mechanical-latching solenoid will also be installed between the battery and the front junction terminal in the engine compartment. A hidden momentary switch, thwarting would-be thieves and preventing accidental draining of the battery, activates the 100-amp continuous-duty solenoid.
Here's the momentary switch...
Here's the momentary switch that we'll be installing somewhere in the cab, along with the terminal ends provided for the battery cable.
Another style of battery disconnect...
Another style of battery disconnect is this mechanical unit, which disconnects battery power with a turn of the latch. These are a great alternative to the remote unit but harder to hide as they require physical access to activate.
The first step is to mount...
The first step is to mount the battery junctions by drilling a 3/4-inch hole in the floor.
Next, the battery junctions...
Next, the battery junctions can be installed.
I had this finned regulator...
I had this finned regulator cover sitting around and decided it would work great to protect the battery lugs with a little modification.
Here's the front battery junction...
Here's the front battery junction under the hood. The positive battery cable will run the length of the framerail, from the rear terminal to this terminal with the remote disconnect tucked under the cab.
I picked up a hammer-style...
I picked up a hammer-style terminal crimping tool from the local hardware supplier to crimp the terminals onto the cable. It works just like you'd think; a few hard smacks and you're good to go.
The next step is to protect...
The next step is to protect the terminal ends using heat shrink tubing provided with the kit.
A little heat from a torch...
A little heat from a torch or heat gun causes the tubing to shrink up tight on the cable.
We picked up a 16-foot battery...
We picked up a 16-foot battery cable kit that included both positive and negative one-gauge cables to relocate the battery.
With our battery terminals...
With our battery terminals in place, it's time to make the first cable. A die grinder with a cutoff wheel makes easy work of trimming the cable to length.
Next, the sheathing is trimmed...
Next, the sheathing is trimmed using a razor blade and then the bare copper is inserted in the provided terminal.
The finished product is a...
The finished product is a nice, protected cable.
This is then connected to...
This is then connected to the rear junction terminal and run forward along the frame. While I was at it, I also made the ground (negative) cable that will run from the junction terminal to the framerail.
To ensure that the negative...
To ensure that the negative terminal gets a nice ground, the area surrounding the attachment point is ground down to bare metal. Then, a washer is bolted into place and the area around it can then be painted. Once the washer and bolt is removed, it leaves a nice, bare-metal area no larger than the terminal itself. This is incredibly important on chassis that are powdercoated or painted with multiple coats as the paint can inhibit the grounding capabilities of the entire system.
Moving forward, here's the...
Moving forward, here's the remote disconnect tucked up nice and high in the frame, hidden from view and reach. Without access to this or the hidden button that will be connected to it ensures that the battery remains isolated from the rest of the electrical system when disconnected.
I decided to mount the remote-battery...
I decided to mount the remote-battery disconnect button in the glovebox. This keeps it within easy reach of the driver while the ability to lock the glovebox door ensures that it will be harder for a thief to access.
A good ground cable between...
A good ground cable between the engine and the frame is also a must. Not shown here, we also installed a ground strap between the body and the frame.
Mounting the forward battery...
Mounting the forward battery junction terminal near the starter makes two things possible. First, it's down low, so the battery cable running from the battery mounts easily to the bottom of the terminal. Secondly, it allows the few wires that normally would connect to the large lug on the starter to connect to the top mount of the terminal. A short battery cable connects the terminal to the starter, along with the solenoid wire. Now, instead of wrestling a handful of larger gauge wires along with the battery cable when removing or installing the starter, there are only two.
To ensure the system stays...
To ensure the system stays charged is a PowerGEN alternator from Powermaster Motorsports. Rated at 75 amps with 60 amps at idle, its old-school look combined with contemporary technology makes it a great fit in an old-school engine compartment.
But what would a charging...
But what would a charging system be without a great battery? An Optima yellow top D34 provides 750 cold-cranking amps in a small 10 x 67/8 x 713/16-inch package and the unique Sprailcell AGM design offers the advantage of mounting the battery in any position. Here, we've used a Speedway Motors aluminum battery mount to install the battery on the floor.