I've noticed a peculiar trait that GMC trucks from the classic years possess. It seems like they either left the factory as plain as a pair of orthopedic shoes, or they came dressed to the nines with every factory option imaginable-even more than Chevrolet made available. In the case of my '68 GMC 1500, she's just about as plain as they come except for a few extras that make it more of a heavy-duty truck. Under the hood, instead of the base-model 230-inch six-cylinder, there is a 307-inch V-8, and in place of a three-speed column-shift transmission, there is a compound four-speed. In the looks department, with a painted grille and front bumper on my Jimmy, using an orthopedic shoe for a hood ornament might add a little pizzazz, but it wouldn't be a very honorable way to reward the old girl for its many years of dependable service. In my eyes, the only way befitting the truck is chrome, and a lot of it.
As a heads-up to anyone that's...
As a heads-up to anyone that's never replaced the front bumper on a '67-'72 Chevy or GMC truck, unbolting one from behind is a lot more hassle than '66-and-earlier, or '73-'87. Trying to take one off almost gives you the impression GM pulled an employee off a forklift and told him to guess at engineering some mounting brackets. If one doesn't care about having to reuse any of the hardware or the hardware are just too rusty to be saved, the fast road is to cut the heads off the bumper (carriage) bolts from the front side.
In years past, trying to find a'67-'70 GMC grille that was in cherry enough condition to use wasn't an easy task, let alone finding a good candidate to have chromed. Add to the mix, the '67 model with the GMC logo stamped in the center is a one-year-only design, and one is looking for something that is as rare as hen's teeth. Because of their rarity, it has never been easy for GMC owners, but that's all about to change thanks to the folks at LMC Truck, in Lenexa, Kansas, who are coming up with a new example to fit any '67-'72 GMC in a pinch.
For my '68 I was looking to shave the GMC letters off the hood to clean up the looks, but I wanted to retain a GMC logo to identify the truck's brand, so I ordered a '67 grille. The front bumper on '67-'72 GMC and Chevy trucks are pretty much identical, but I wanted the deep luster of triple-plated chrome, so I went with LMC Truck's Premium bumper. In addition to upgrading the '68's looks, I brought the lighting up to snuff with new headlights, park light lenses, and side markers. The very first step if you want to stand a good chance of getting things off in one piece is to presoak every nut, bolt, and screw with a heavy dose of penetrating oil and allow it enough time to wick its way in. That said, it is time to start removing the old and installing the new.
This is a view of the two...
This is a view of the two bolts on each frame horn that mount the front bumper. Notice there's zero clearance to unbolt the top bumper bolts directly, and the bolts that hold this L-bracket aren't that easy to access.
Provided there isn't heavy...
Provided there isn't heavy rust, unbolting the one bumper bolt on each corner is a straight shot. If the bumper bolt starts to round-off the square hole in the bumper using a 1/2-inch open-end wrench works to keep the bumper bolt from turning.
Approaching from the backside...
Approaching from the backside and undoing the nuts often requires the help of a good pair of vise grips. From the front side, the bumper bolts can be cut off with a plasma, oxy-acetylene, or a die-grinder if need be.
Getting to this point will...
Getting to this point will feel like a major accomplishment. To remove the grille, it's a lot easier to remove the front bumper first.
Take note of how the L-brackets...
Take note of how the L-brackets are positioned on the front bumper. They must be removed and mounted in the same manner on the new front bumper before it can be installed. It's also a good idea to ensure the threads on the L-brackets easily accept new bumper bolts before attempting to install.
Whether by hand or using an...
Whether by hand or using an impact wrench, putting constant load on the bumper bolts while unscrewing the nuts will keep the bolt from spinning in the bumper.
Enough can't be said about...
Enough can't be said about how much of an advantage it is to presoak the hardware before attempting to disassemble the grille, bumper, and lights.
A strong push forward while...
A strong push forward while turning the screwdriver counterclockwise increases the odds of not stripping the Phillips head out.
When removing the headlight...
When removing the headlight rings to remove the headlights, take care not to mistake the Phillips headlight adjustment screw at right. Rough roads can knock headlights out of alignment as well. Either way it's best to have an experienced person adjust the headlights.