The next step is to relocate the existing electric fuel pump closer to the new tank. Even though it was not mounted this way previously, the fuel pump should be mounted vertically (the inlet and outlet path should be horizontal) for optimum performance. It should also be mounted so that the inlet and outlet are lower than the lowest portion of the tank or as close to that as safely possible. Using some of the strap steel that was left over, I fabricated a bracket that mounts the fuel pump accordingly. The fuel pump is somewhat protected by the rear axle housing and the fuel tank, so it should be safe since this will be a paved-surface-only vehicle. For an off-road vehicle, this location might be cause for some concern, but with the typical ride height of an off-road vehicle it most likely would not be a problem there either.
With the tank and the electric fuel pump mounted securely, it was time to route the fuel line. This truck uses a carbureted engine, so the fuel line consists of both 3/8-inch rubber fuel hose and 3/8-inch steel hard line, but does not use a return line. I used a section of rubber hose to connect the fuel pickup fitting to the inlet of the electric fuel pump. Another section of rubber hose connects the outlet of the electric fuel pump to the hard line that runs along the inside of the passenger-side framerail. From the end of the hard line, a short section of rubber hose is used to connect an inline fuel filter and finally to the carburetor. To prevent the fuel line from vibrating or chafing, the steel hard line is clamped in place with rubber-coated line clamps in multiple locations. Now I just need to mount the fuel sender and related wiring. Be sure to ground the filler neck and the fuel level sender. Oh yeah, still gotta remove the original tank and fill the filler hole. The fun continues.