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50s Hemi Engine Build With 21st Century Technology - A Contemporary Chrysler - TechBuilding A '50s Hemi Using 21st Century Technology From the September, 2010 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Ryan Manson
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Without a doubt, one of the most impressive looking engines of all time is the Chrysler Hemi. But before you get carried away with images of black wrinkle-finish valve covers installed on bright orange blocks and heads, there's something we need to remind you. The Hemi was around 13 years before all these muscle car guys came in and stole the Fire Power's thunder. Most of us are aware of the origins of the early Hemi and the fact that not only did Chrysler use them to power some of their passenger cars, among other things, but so did Chrysler's Mopar sibling companies: DeSoto and Dodge. And by the time those bright orange engines were running NASCAR, the older Hemis had already been proving themselves on the streets, at the drags, and at the lakes for years. Just ask Don Garlits, the Chrisman brothers, or Fred Larson and Don Cummins, all of which had very successful early Hemi-powered race cars in the '50s and on. When Chrysler pulled the plug in 1958, the Hemi's reputation had already been firmly established as the motor to beat. This would be all fine and good if this were 1958 and there were piles of engines in the junkyard or available at the local Mopar dealer. Problem is, it ain't 1958, it's 2010 and 59 years have passed since the first-gen block rolled off the assembly line. But while the engines themselves are slightly more elusive than they were 50 years ago, there exists today a booming aftermarket industry that supports vintage engine builds such as the early Hemi, perhaps in a more progressive way today than ever before. A number of the weak spots in those old engines have been addressed, such as the water pumps, which companies like Hot Heads offers adapters to run readily available small-block Chevy pumps in their place, as well as adapters for more transmissions than you can shake a stick at. And internal items such as pistons, bearings, seals, gaskets, rings, cranks, and camshafts, and even CNC'd aluminum heads are all readily available. The point is, it's easier today to build up a reliable vintage engine such as the Hemi than it's ever been. And with every John, Dick, and Harry running small-block Chevy crate engines, dropping a vintage mill in your truck ensures that it will standout from the crowd and separate you from the cookie-cutter guys. In a hobby where it's nearly impossible for the average guy to build a truck in his garage that competes with what the pros are doing, dropping in a vintage engine ups the ante that little bit that just may set it head and shoulders above the rest. That was exactly my mentality when it came time to pick a mill for my '52 F-1 pickup. Sure I could have ordered up a crate engine from any of the suppliers across the country and I probably could have had my project on the road months ago, but who wants to take the easy way out? Always up for a challenge and wanting to do something different, I set out hunting for a good candidate to power my truck. As luck would have it, I found one locally in a barn that looked pretty clean and didn't appear to be too worse for wear. The price was right, a deal was struck and soon I was heading over to Speed-O-Motive with the engine in the back of my parts hauler to give those guys a thorough headache with my vintage "gem." Speed-O-Motive has been known as the stroker experts since 1946, so there was no doubt in my mind that they would be the perfect choice to handle the machining chores. Another name synonymous with vintage engines is Egge Machine Company, who supplied all the internals for the Hemi, save the camshaft, crank, rods, and springs. They run a first-class business that cast pistons for everything from, well, Flatheads to Hemis, and also stock every internal part you can think of for vintage engines from 1900 to 1980. A camshaft was ordered up from legendary Mooneyes, ground by the master himself, Bill Jenks. With a spec sheet with that much history, I was sure to be in good hands! All engine machine work was... All engine machine work was accomplished by Speed-O-Motive using their Rottler CNC machines. Everything from boring and decking the block... With the 331ci Chrysler Hemi receiving the green flag from Speed-O-Motive, it was back in my hands to start assembling the rotating assembly, heads, and valvetrain. Being a greenhorn to a full-on engine rebuild, I was slightly hesitant to jump right into the assembly as I thought it would be quite a shame to ruin all the hard work that the machine shop had done. Suffice it to say, I learned a lot along the way, with many thanks to those who had to suffer with my constant pestering. I can't say enough kind things about those involved, namely the crew at Speed-O-Motive, Egge, Hot Heads, and Mooneyes for dealing with my "newby" questions. If there were ever any reluctance in getting your hands dirty building a vintage engine, sleep easy knowing that there's a number of people in our industry who are not only knowledgeable enough to provide you with the know-how to tackle such a project, but that they're more than willing to explain things and walk you through some of those head scratching problems that you may come across. Building a vintage engine can be shrouded by old time voodoo secrets, ancient magic, and must-do speed tips, but be forewarned that a knowledgeable machine shop coupled with a competent parts supplier can take that ancient relic of Detroit's past and dumb it down to a tractor motor. The internal combustion engine is going on 100-plus years and while a great many innovations have been made, it all boils down to a simple few points. Get the gas in the cylinder, make it explode, expel the burn, and create power to get you down the road. There have been leaps and bounds in technology, but the general idea has been the same since Henry Ford first took the Model T coast to coast. That said, I was able to convince myself to act as the guinea pig for those who wanted to build a vintage engine and do it in the confines of their home shop. I've worked on the Mooneyes dragster and even moonlighted on a Bonneville race car that made it into the 200 mph Club in 2004 (Todd Haas' So Cal Speed Shop-sponsored '34 roadster), but that hardly means I knew what I was doing. I was simply a bystander at the feet of bigger and better tuners, fabricators, and racers. But I had the itch and that's all that matters. With this 331ci Chrysler build however, I was convinced that I could bring a down-home, do-it-yourself perspective to show that you don't need 40 years experience to assemble a reliable, vintage powerplant. Armed with fellow staffer Ron Ceridono's priceless Chrysler Hemi Engine Manual and the support of the named aftermarket companies, assembling the early Hemi has been both a labor of love and a fruitful provider of frustration. But as it came together, I've been exceptionally pleased with not only the fact that I did it, but that it will work and provide me with years of satisfaction as I'm driving the F-1 that it will eventually see life in. Sure a crate motor may have been the easy way out, but do you think that Michelangelo would have ordered up templates to paint the Sistine Chapel over the internet had he been given the opportunity 500 hundred years ago? I think not! While building a vintage engine can have its ups and downs, today's vast aftermarket industry makes it easier than ever to build a bulletproof vintage engine that is as reliable as any crate motor out there. Just remember that if you can't find something that applies to your particular project, it doesn't mean it doesn't exist, but sometimes it is necessary to think outside the box.  ... to balancing and turning...  ... to balancing and turning the crank and con rods ...  ... to machining the valve...  ... to machining the valve seats ...  ... to assembling the hea...  ... to assembling the heads.  With the block, heads, and...  With the block, heads, and crank back from the machine shop, everything got a thorough cleaning with warm water and dish washing detergent. Extra care is taken to ensure any grit or debris from the machining process is removed.  Replacing the freeze plugs...  Replacing the freeze plugs is the first step on our long list of reassembly. Hot Heads offers two options, both of which are removable if the need arises. On the left is a brass assembly and on the right is a trick stainless kit.  Here's the two different styles...  Here's the two different styles installed to give you an idea of their aesthetics. I chose to use the stainless style for my Hemi.  There's also a cam plug and...  There's also a cam plug and two threaded plugs that need to be installed in the back of the block. The cam plug is installed just like a normal freeze plug; set it against the ridge of the block and dimple the center to expand it firmly in place.  I'm lazy and like to start...  I'm lazy and like to start with the easiest item first. Therefore, I decided to drive in the bronze oil pump driveshaft bushing. A large drift and a hammer makes the job a snap.  The main bearings for the...  The main bearings for the 331 came from Egge Machine. They stock everything for all three Chrysler Hemis; 331, 354, and 392 ci.  Since the motor is going back...  Since the motor is going back together for the first time since being machined, it's important to check all the clearances. This can be done by either measuring them with a snap gauge and an outside micrometer with the bearings installed and the main cap torqued to spec...  ...or by installing the crank...  ...or by installing the crank with all the mains torqued to spec and Plastigaging the surfaces. Main bearing clearances should be between 0.0005-0.0015-inch.  The rear main bearings are...  The rear main bearings are block and cap specific, mix them up and you'll starve the rear main for oil. Also notice the locating ring for the rear main cap, this aligns the cap to prevent the oil pump driveshaft from rubbing against the block.  Originally, the rear main...  Originally, the rear main cap featured a rope seal to prevent oil from leaking out into to the bellhousing. A seal from a 440 Mopar is now a common replacement. The rear main cap also has a provision to drain oil back to the pan between the bearing and the seal.  Originally, the rear main...  Originally, the rear main cap featured a rope seal to prevent oil from leaking out into to the bellhousing. A seal from a 440 Mopar is now a common replacement. The rear main cap also has a provision to drain oil back to the pan between the bearing and the seal.  With the clearances checking...  With the clearances checking out and the bearings bathed in a healthy dose of engine assembly lube, the mains are torqued to 85 ft-lb. Note the adapter on the rear main cap that accepts a high-volume, small-block Mopar oil pump from Hot Heads.  Here's the small-block Mopar...  Here's the small-block Mopar oil pump installed on the adapter. These are commonly available and provide more volume than the original Hemi item.  The pump registers on the...  The pump registers on the main cap and requires another adapter to align the pump driveshaft with the block.  Moving onto the rest of the...  Moving onto the rest of the rotating assembly, the first thing to check is the piston ring endgap. The ring is installed an inch or two into the bore and the gap is measured using a feeler gauge. Ring gap minimum is 0.015 inch and shouldn't be over 0.025 inch. If the gap is below tolerance, it needs to be filed using a ring jig tool.  The ring endgap checked out...  The ring endgap checked out so the compression and oil rings are installed on a new set of 0.040-over cast pistons from Egge Machine. A set of Grant rings will handle the compression chores in the 331. The expander-spacer oil ring is color-coded so it's easy to tell if it's installed correctly. The two colors should be visible and land directly above the wristpin. Two steel rails hold it in place, with the gap on either side of the wristpin (arrows). The compression rings should be perpendicular to the wristpin on opposite sides of the piston.  New rod bolts are highly recommended...  New rod bolts are highly recommended as the original units can stretch and not give an accurate torque reading. ARP fasteners are the best in the biz, so it was only natural that Hot Heads recommended them for our 331 build.  The rotating assembly for...  The rotating assembly for the 331 was completely balanced at Speed-O-Motive and the stock rods were reamed with new bushings to accept the "palm push" fit, full floating wristpins. They're retained by a pair of snap rings that should be located with the opening vertically and not to the side where the reciprocating motion of the piston may cause them to move. The 0.020-inch under rod bearings have also been installed as reference.  A ring compressor was picked...  A ring compressor was picked up from the local parts house and the well lubricated piston is installed in the block with a few light blows from the handle of a dead blow mallet. Care is used to not hook the rings on the deck of the block.  With the pistons and rods...  With the pistons and rods installed, note the mark on the top of the pistons that point to the front of the block as the valve reliefs on the piston are relative to the intake and exhaust valves. The rods are torqued to 45-50 ft-lb.  Early Hemi head gaskets are...  Early Hemi head gaskets are top and bottom specific and should be coated with a copper sealant before being installed. Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket works great but don't get it on anything but the gaskets.  With the heads in place on...  With the heads in place on the stepped dowels provided by Hot Heads, new head bolts are lubricated prior to installation. Like the rod bolts, the original head bolts can also succumb to stress and stretch over time, resulting in faulty torque readings. New, lubricated bolts will remedy this.  The heads are torqued to 85...  The heads are torqued to 85 ft-lb starting at the center pair and working out in an alternating pattern.  Returning to my old stomping...  Returning to my old stomping ground, I coaxed Bill Jenks at Mooneyes to grind me a cam for the 331. Using a 354-style blank, Bill ground a 0.461-inch lift 280-degree solid lifter cam that'll make the old Chrysler run like a watch with power to spare. A set of solid lifters from a 318 Chrysler was provided from Egge to fit the Hemi.  Speed-O-Motive recommended...  Speed-O-Motive recommended using CMW Entech assembly lube for the entire assembly, including the cam and lifters. Rotella heavy-duty oil has been used as well and will be used in the engine to help break in the assembly as many modern motor oils lack the appropriate properties necessary for the old flat tappet motors.  I made a cam installation...  I made a cam installation tool by welding a bolt to a piece of tubing. Care must be taken when installing the cam to not knick the bearing surfaces.  This ring faces with the chamfer...  This ring faces with the chamfer pointed towards the back of the block and supports the cam timing gear.  A thrust plate bolts to the...  A thrust plate bolts to the front of the block and controls fore and aft cam movement behind the timing chain assembly. The cam retaining bolt and washer are indexed to fit over the keyway of the cam. Note the relationship of the dots on the crank and cam timing gears. While some engine builders recommend degreeing the cam, Bill Jenks mentioned that since the cam was reground on a machine that registered everything off the keyway, there's no chance of the lobes being off time. Fifty years experience can't be wrong.  With the cam installed, the...  With the cam installed, the lifters and pushrods were dropped in and it was time to start adjusting the valves. The 331 is running adjustable pushrods from Hot Heads to set the valve lash.  A timely and frustrating dance...  A timely and frustrating dance to say the least, the valves need to be properly adjusted with the recommended 0.015-inch valve lash, measured here with a feeler gauge.  With the head installed, torqued,...  With the head installed, torqued, and the No. 1 cylinder valves adjusted, everything was pulled apart to measure piston to valve clearance. A tedious procedure, it's easier than finding out too late that the clearance isn't within the recommended 0.100-inch. Modeling clay was applied to the valve area of the piston and the depth measured with a caliper after the engine was turned over a few revolutions.  With the clearances checking...  With the clearances checking out, the heads were reassembled, torqued, and the valves readjusted.  The last piece of internal...  The last piece of internal hardware to be installed before the engine really starts to take shape is the intermediate driveshaft. This couples the oil pump with the cam and distributor.  The assembled 331 is now ready...  The assembled 331 is now ready for all the external components to be installed.  Before the Hot Heads timing...  Before the Hot Heads timing cover is slid into place, the modified oil slinger and keyway are installed on the crank snout. The stock oil slinger is slightly different than the modified version Hot Heads provides and will not work with their timing cover without modifications.  Here's the Bill's Hot Rod...  Here's the Bill's Hot Rod Company brackets installed on the Chevy water pump as they come shipped, ready to bolt on from Speedway Motors.  Note the difference between...  Note the difference between where the Bill's brackets bolt to the small-block Chevy front intake bolts and where the Hemi intake bolts are. The intake bolt portion of the bracket supports the backside of the assembly and needs to be tied into something.  The 331 heads each have a...  The 331 heads each have a tapped hole in the front side and we used this as our mounting point for the backside of the bracket assembly instead of the intake bolt. Here, a cardboard template is made up ...  ... before being transferred...  ... before being transferred to a piece of 1/8-inch steel and welded to the bracket assembly.  With the brackets dialed in,...  With the brackets dialed in, the accessories are installed and everything checked to make sure all the pulleys are going to line up. It all looks good, so it's disassembled and the timing cover and water pump are painted to match the block.  A Mooneyes finned aluminum...  A Mooneyes finned aluminum valley cover, painted to match the engine, replaces that old, beat-up stock cover.  Hot Heads offers a Street...  Hot Heads offers a Street Performance harmonic balancer to replace the stock style balancer and crank hub. These are based off a late-model Mopar unit and are marked to correspond with their timing cover pointer.  Hot Heads also offers a high-rise,...  Hot Heads also offers a high-rise, dual-plane 4bbl intake manifold with an rpm range from idle to 5,500. Combined with a Holley Street Avenger 570-cfm carb, this combo should provide plenty of torque on the low end. Since the 331 series heads do not have a water outlet in the front like the later 354 and 392 heads, the outlets in the front of the intake will be used, along with a remote thermostat housing.  A vintage Vertex mag will...  A vintage Vertex mag will provide the spark for the Chrysler. We took ours to Don Zig Magnetos where they put 14-degrees initial advance in it to make it a little more street friendly.  Another upgrade available...  Another upgrade available from Hot Heads is this vertical spin-on oil filter adapter that uses a modern oil filter to replace that messy stock canister type.  A pair of tuned, block hugging...  A pair of tuned, block hugging headers courtesy of Doug's Headers tuck neatly against the sides of the block, which will ease installing the Hemi in our F-1. These feature a metallic ceramic thermal barrier coating to significantly lower underhood temperatures and extend the life of the headers.  Speedway Motors provided the...  Speedway Motors provided the aluminum double upper pulley, while the lower is a Hot Heads unit that is designed to mate to their harmonic balancer. Also note the Bill's bracket that attaches to the upper water pump bolts.  Here's our accessories installed...  Here's our accessories installed on the modified Bill's brackets from Speedway Motors. That's a Vintage Air A/C compressor on the left and a Powermaster PowerGEN alternator on the right.  With everything bolted up,...  With everything bolted up, our Chrysler is looking lean and mean and ready to drop into our F-1.
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1959 Ford F-100
Scott Oshinki rebuilt a 1959 Ford F-100 for his father-in-law Art Carney....
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