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1946-1948 Lincoln Pushbutton Door Handle Install - When Push Comes To Shove - TechInstalling '46-48 Lincoln Pushbutton Door Handles From the September, 2010 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Ryan Manson
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We've talked about the snowball effect in the past and how it's found its way into my F-1 project. What started out as a simple six-month daily driver project has turned into a full blown two-year affair that's going to be a bit nicer than most daily drivers; at least any that I've ever owned. Although not what I had originally intended, I found my peace with the fact that the project was spiraling out of control, and have since embraced it wholeheartedly. If you can't beat 'em, join 'em, right?! Instead of trying to limit the number of unnecessary items thrown at the project, I went the opposite direction and have come up with a number of things that are not only unnecessary, but downright silly. But you know what, in the end, all these little detail items are what's going to set the truck apart from every other F-1 out there and make it that much more bitchin'. Sure, I could've left the stock dash, dropped a small-block Chevy under the hood and left the body untouched, but how is that either cool or fun? This month, I'm tackling one of those aforementioned additions that seem completely ridiculous but are right at home given the project's theme and build style. Way back in the way back, when a guy would customize his truck, he oftentimes turned to other makes and models of the era, be it a truck or passenger car, and borrowed styling cues and parts. A dash from a Pontiac, an engine from a Chrysler, suspension from a Ford passenger car, these are only a few of the cues I took from various automobiles from the early '50s and have incorporated into the F-1. Add to that another in the shape of door handles from a '46-48 Lincoln which, technically, they're not really door handles per se, but pushbuttons. Always wanting to add that one subtle little thing to the project to push it that much further, I was perusing eBay one day, just looking at stuff randomly, when I decided to see if I could find a set of the Lincoln buttons. Knowing that they can fetch as much as $300 for a pair of the buttons by themselves, I was surprised to see an auction for not only the exterior buttons, but the latch mechanisms and the even more rare interior mechanism and buttons. Not one to sit on a good find, I immediately bid the auction up until I was the highest bidder, and for a pretty decent price I might add. The reason for doing this conversion, aside from the aforementioned coolness factor, is due to the fact that I've never much cared for the stock Ford door handles and their tendency to droop. I'm also not a fan of their protruding state, but am equally offended by the idea of shaving the handles completely. No, old trucks should have a little bit of bling in the form of polished stainless or chrome. By the end of the week, I was seriously beginning to wonder why on Earth I agreed to take on such an undertaking as it seemed like it would never end. I did a dry run on the driver side to get everything sorted out before I shot any photos so that I could present the story in as concise and accurate a manner possible when it came time to do the passenger side. This made doing the passenger side slightly easier as I made a few templates for the latches that sped up the process and gave me a baseline to use a comparison when it came time to fitting everything into place. There were a few things that I didn't have the foresight to predict, one of them being the deletion of the door locks due to the Lincoln units having a separate mechanism. The stock Ford locks wouldn't work, so I decided to use the lock mechanism on the Lincoln latches, actuated by an AutoLoc power lock kit. The power lock kit will be wired in conjunction with the keyless ignition system and, using a keyfob, will lock/unlock the doors and activate/deactivate the ignition when the fob comes within a certain distance of the truck. Anyways, enough yammering. Check out the photos and the accompanying captions. I'm really pleased with the results and the way the doors pop open with a push of a button is pretty darn cool!  Here's what we'll be replacing....  Here's what we'll be replacing. The stock door handles on many an old Ford truck are the same: droopy.  This constitutes half the...  This constitutes half the kit I found off good ol' eBay. While the pushbuttons themselves are fairly easy to find, the latch mechanism and inside buttons are a whole 'nother story. Score this one good find for our project.  First things first however....  First things first however. The passenger door on our cab had a bit of slop so we need to address that before moving on by replacing the hinge pins.  Once removed however, we found...  Once removed however, we found that they weren't of the standard through-pin variety and actually had a two-piece hinge pin.  Once reassembled, the hinges...  Once reassembled, the hinges were nice and tight, kinda. Anyone with any info on what trucks came with two-piece hinge pins, shoot me an email for some swag!  With the hinges sorted, it...  With the hinges sorted, it was time to install the pushbutton. You can see the hole from the stock door handle and the circle traced around it that will allow the button to fit in its location. I used an oval burr to open the hole up.  Here's the aftermath with...  Here's the aftermath with the slot to allow room for the pinch bolt section of the button...  ...and the button in plac...  ...and the button in place.  The latch mechanism on the...  The latch mechanism on the right is from the driver side that I installed earlier. Note the amount of material that needed to be trimmed away to fit the door.  This is where things start...  This is where things start to get a bit ugly. To install the new latch, the entire respective area of the door needs to be trimmed away so it can be mocked up into place.  I made a template for the...  I made a template for the top plate when I did the driver side that will mount the latch mechanism.  I used this to make a plate...  I used this to make a plate that the latch will bolt to.  Here, the latch and plate...  Here, the latch and plate are clamped to the door frame for initial fitment.  I also made a lower template,...  I also made a lower template, which I transposed to a piece of 16-gauge sheetmetal for the lower plate, before tacking both plates to the door.  As you can see, once the latch...  As you can see, once the latch was in place, the button location needed to move forward by about a 1/4 inch. Visible through the center of the hole is the striker that actuates the latch via the pushbutton.  Here's the pushbutton installed...  Here's the pushbutton installed with the door lock cylinder hole filled and a shot of the pinch bolt that holds the button in place.  Since we're dealing with a...  Since we're dealing with a 5-Star cab and wanted to retain the cool door panels, they needed to be trimmed to fit the latch mechanism. Also note that the latch plates are now welded up to the door jamb, quite an improvement from that gaping hole a few steps back.  Next, our attention turns...  Next, our attention turns to the B-pillars, where the striker plate will be installed.  Another hole is cut to remove...  Another hole is cut to remove the stock F-1 striker and dovetail assembly... .  ...where a template is ma...  ...where a template is made,...  ...a plate is fabricated,...  ...a plate is fabricated, ...  ...and welded into place....  ...and welded into place.  Here's the Lincoln striker...  Here's the Lincoln striker and dovetail mechanism that will mount on the B-pillar.  First, the striker plate is...  First, the striker plate is mounted onto the latch and the door is shut to check for fitment.  The striker needs to be spaced...  The striker needs to be spaced 1/4-inch away from the new B-pillar plate, so a spacer is fabbed up to go behind the striker.  The two are welded together...  The two are welded together and then tacked into place with the door closed. This gives me a rough location as to where it needs to be in relation to the door latch.  Still tacked to the B-pillar,...  Still tacked to the B-pillar, the mounting holes are drilled using the striker plate as a jig.  The tack welds are then ground...  The tack welds are then ground off and the striker is free to be bolted into place. I'll be replacing the button head fasteners with counter sunk units once complete, but for now they suffice.  With the door latching and...  With the door latching and releasing via the external button, it's time to turn our attention to the interior button. First I marked the center of the new button on the door frame using the actuator as a template.  I then made a plate to mount...  I then made a plate to mount the button escutcheon to...  ...and cut the corresponding...  ...and cut the corresponding shape out of the door. Since this is a 5-Star cab, this area will be covered by the metal door panel piece that we'll get to later but the escutcheon needs a flat panel to bolt to, hence the needed surgery.  A pair of panel clamps are...  A pair of panel clamps are used to hold the plate in place while it's welded. Note that I drilled out two of the three mounting holes for the button mechanism before installing the plate.  I made another template for...  I made another template for the inner button mechanism when I did the driver side, which I used to mark the hole in the passenger door.  Here's the interior button...  Here's the interior button all bolted up.  To finish off the interior,...  To finish off the interior, I needed to cut a hole in the 5-Star door panel. Note the rust in the upper left side, I'll be replacing that section using what's left of the one I have.  I used the cut off section...  I used the cut off section of door panel that came with the truck for the forward piece. This will replace the rusted portion of the new panel and will include the hole for the door button. First I cut a section out around the button...  ...then I buzzed a 2-inch...  ...then I buzzed a 2-inch hole in a spare piece of 16-gauge sheetmetal.  I then trimmed the sheetmetal...  I then trimmed the sheetmetal piece to fit the section cut into the door panel and tacked it into place.  This allows the piece to be...  This allows the piece to be perfectly centered with the button escutcheon.  I then mated the two pieces...  I then mated the two pieces together, ridding rust and centering the hole in one move.  Since the door won't have...  Since the door won't have a handle to pull it open, it's necessary to install a door popper to give it a little budge.  A 3/4-inch hole was drilled...  A 3/4-inch hole was drilled into the rocker panel and the door popper was installed.  The last thing on the agenda...  The last thing on the agenda is to address the ability to lock the doors. This will be done using a pair of AutoLoc remote controlled actuators.  Here's the module, wiring...  Here's the module, wiring harness, and hardware that comes with each kit.  I attached the actuator directly...  I attached the actuator directly to the door lock mechanism on the latch itself...  ...and then mounted the actuator...  ...and then mounted the actuator directly to the door.  The corresponding wires from...  The corresponding wires from the actuator wire directly to the module and on to the wiring harness, which we'll cover in a few months when we wire up the truck.
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The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
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