Getting' hooked up doesn't always make out like one's initial train of thought might imagine. For instance, in the hot rod realm, oftentimes hooked up is simply referring to "hooking" parts together. In this specific case at hand, getting hooked up is tied into installing linkages: throttle, tranny, pedal, and column to be specific. Yep, for this chapter in the book of Project Get Shorty it's time to link all the mechanical systems together in order to get this hauler one step closer to flight.
When it comes to linking all the moving parts of a hot rod together, there's no bigger name in the game than Lokar Performance Products. Lokar specializes in shifters, cable systems, rod linkages, throttle pedals, e-brake systems, and measuring systems. Their horizons cover all things automotive, which means more or less they have the parts to put whatever make, model, and year hauler you have in motion-pun intended. (Sorry, it was there for the taking and I had to do it.) Whether it's linking the steering column to the tranny, the throttle pedal to the carburetor, synching the engine and tranny, or simply selecting gears, Lokar has it covered. The best part is their products can link up OEM components, aftermarket components, and even OEM to aftermarket components. In laymen's terms, no stone goes unturned in their catalog.
For our specific quest at hand, we're trying to put all the mechanical systems of Project Get Shorty into action. Right now the truck sits with the motor, tranny, steering column, and so on all in position. Yet, that's the problem; they are just in position, nothing's synched together. For that reason we contacted Lokar to acquire all the goodies to make command central-the driver's seat-operable by levers, pedals, shifters, and the like. In order to get the Smeding 383 up and running we ordered the stainless steel spoon throttle assembly coupled with the braided stainless steel throttle cable and bracket. Making sure the engine and Gearstar 4L60 work in unison is a Hi-Tech kickdown cable. Like the throttle cable, it too is made from braided stainless steel. Because Get Shorty is equipped with an automatic transmission and an ididit column-shift column it will need the necessary equipment to link the two. Lokar offers two options for this. One is a cable operated system that attaches to the column shift arm and down to the tranny gear selector. The other is a stainless steel rod, which installs just like the cable. Being that the '71 offers a straight shot from the column to the gear selector, I opted to go with the rod linkage to keep things in line with the KISS strategy: Keep It Simple, Stupid!
Unless you plan on guesstimating, or using a set of chopsticks pirated from Panda Express, to check fluid levels, the odds are some sort of measuring device is needed. For our application we choose to use the Lokar stainless braided flexible dipsticks. They're simple to install, versatile, and easy on the eyes to boot.
Between all of the Lokar products it took more or less a solid day to install them all. Not so much because it's a complicated procedure that requires deep thought, but because the process is a bit time consuming-as the following pictures attest to. All the items on the agenda can be installed with simple, common handtools, which makes this install ideal for the hobbyist. Follow along with Star Kustom Shop as we install Lokar's arsenal of products.
Here's what the day holds...
Here's what the day holds in store; installing the Lokar Hi-Tech kickdown cable, throttle pedal, throttle cable, column shift linkage, and the engine and tranny flexible dipsticks.
The Lokar spoon throttle pedal...
The Lokar spoon throttle pedal assembly is a universal application for all styles of automobiles. Lokar designed the pedal to adapt to its surroundings by allowing the swing arms to mount on either side of the base, and can set the angle of the pedal. My first step was to remove the pedal from the splined shaft.
From there I located the correct...
From there I located the correct mounting position of the pedal assembly on the firewall, and drilled two holes in order to secure the mounting base. At that point I reinstalled the pedal to the splined shaft in the correct position per the contour of the '71 cab. Because I used the OEM throttle cable access hole I didn't need to drill my own.
I then began installing the...
I then began installing the Lokar throttle cable. The first step is to clip the throttle cable fitting into the clevis on the throttle pedal. From there, install the firewall fitting into the access hole on the firewall, and slide the throttle cable through the firewall fitting.
Next, the cable housing adjuster...
Next, the cable housing adjuster was installed on the stainless steel throttle cable bracket. Always install the adjuster with the least amount of tension being applied-it's easy to add tension, not so easy to decrease it. Also, notice the set screw on the cable bracket, this allows the bracket to be set at the correct angle with the opening on the firewall. The entire assembly mounts to the left rear carburetor bolt.
I then slid the stainless...
I then slid the stainless steel cable housing over the throttle cable and slipped the billet ferrule into the firewall fitting. At this point I measured the distance from the fitting on the firewall to the beginning of the housing adjuster on the throttle mounting bracket. (Note arrows.) Once the measurement is calculated add 2 inches to the length to compensate for engine movement.
When it comes to cutting the...
When it comes to cutting the stainless steel cable housing there are several options. I chose to use a set of tin snips. One thing you want to remember is to slide the billet ferrule up past the cut point because once the housing is cut the Ferrule isn't going to slide over the frayed edge. (This approach enforces with the whole measure twice, cut once mentality!)
The last step to installing...
The last step to installing the throttle cable is to install the Lokar carb end fitting to the throttle arm on the carburetor. At this point pull the throttle cable to the carb end fitting and add 1 inch. Cut the cable, slide it into the carb end fitting, and tighten down the set screw.