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Get Shorty Paint Job - Project Get ShortyPaint It Black II From the July, 2010 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Dakota Wentz
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Last month we left the Project Get Shorty saga smack dab in the middle of a paintjob. Well, as Led Zeppelin would say, "The Song Remains the Same," because this month we again find ourselves knee deep in the throes of painting. As mentioned last month, the painting of Get Shorty was going to be broken down into two parts, due to the vast amount of material we wanted to cover. The image we left off last month with was a freshly sanded and assembled truck. For some, they would move on to cutting and buffing. But for us, our work has just begun. For some reason I always pictured the '71 with some artwork, and because of that vision I doubled my workload. When it comes to graphics it's sort of like painting the car twice; being there's twice the materials, twice the painting, twice the masking, twice the sanding ... I think you get the picture. I have done a little bit of layout in the past, things such as racing stripes, scoops, small scallops, and other things that followed some sort of natural body line. Yet, when I looked at all that black real estate across Get Shorty, saying I'm a bit overwhelmed would be an understatement. Although 3M automotive masking... Although 3M automotive masking tape is good for masking off vehicles, a change is needed to lay out graphics. 3M Blue Fine Line tape is the way to go. This tape will bend, curve, and form much easier. It's also less susceptible to bleed. Fritz Schenck of Spritz By Fritz creates a makeshift guide out of refinishing tape, and then begins to pull lines with the Fine Line. When it comes to graphics it's whatever floats your boat, so go crazy. Therefore, I called in someone with a little more experience to lend a hand: Fritz Schenck, of Spritz By Fritz. With Fritz at the helm, I was able to concentrate on watching, studying, and of course taking notes so I could pass along what I observed. One thing I learned is that making an outline using tape really sets things in perspective. On one hand it lends itself as a rough guideline, and on the other it allows you to set the gaps evenly across a panel. From there it's just a matter of exercising your brain to see what you can come up with, and then duplicating that design to the opposite side. Like many things, getting a quick Lesson 101 will set you down the right track-as you'll see later. Once the layout portion of the job was done it was time to move on to spraying the scallops, and then cutting and buffing the finish. Unfortunately, paint doesn't lay down flawless out of the gun. In fact, it's really pretty crude. If you want your paint to look like a never-ending pool of depth then you're in for some work. It all starts with more sanding. Armed with three grits of 3M wet/dry paper: 1,000, 1,500, and 2,000, it's a series of steps. The first step is to wet-sand with 1,000 and then move onto 1,500. From there the finish is hit with 2,000 grit to remove scratches the previous two steps left behind. Any small scratches remaining will be removed using rubbing compounds. Once again, it all starts with a coarse compound and then steps down to a finer compound. It's a vicious cycle concocted by some sadist if ya ask me! But it's all part of the necessary evil to end up with a killer paintjob. For long, straight lines Fritz... For long, straight lines Fritz likes to use 3M 1/4-inch Fine Line, and 1/8-inch Fine Line for more intricate bends. Fritz laid out the driver side freehand. Throughout the story we'll cover everything needed to round out the paintjob. All the supplies can be picked up at any local paint supply house, and even many auto parts stores. If something local is out of the question then buying supplies direct from the manufacturer, or companies such as Eastwood are a viable option as well. Between the past two stories we've covered all the basics, and really all that's left is for you to begin planning your next paintjob. As mentioned in Part One, it's impossible to cover every little thing about paint and body, let alone trying to do it in a two-part series. It's something that is mainly acquired through doing. However, if you run across some hiccups while putting these basics to the test we suggest you check out the "Troubleshooting Paint Flaws: Cause, Effect, & Correction" article in the March 2009 issue of CCT. (The story is also available by logging onto CCT's website at
www.customclassictrucks.com.) The story concentrated on paint troubleshooting, which is a good place to start. Beyond that, all we have to say is good luck.  Before getting started on...  Before getting started on the passenger side, he measured the driver-side layout for pickup points and plotted them on the passenger side with a grease pencil. From there it was just a matter of duplication.  Once the Fine Line is down,...  Once the Fine Line is down, Fritz then came back and laid down the 3M refinishing tape all along the Fine Line, leaving the "painting edge" exposed. The added tape is more or less extra protection from the Fine Line lifting and causing the paint to bleed.  When it comes to duplicating...  When it comes to duplicating unique points of interest, a good idea is to create a pattern.  From there, cut out your pattern...  From there, cut out your pattern and place it in the desired spot and trace the area with a grease pencil. Then all that's left is to follow your trace with some Fine Line.  Like I've said before, I'll...  Like I've said before, I'll try anything once. True to my word I warded off evil spirits from naysayers and tried my hand at layout. I followed my own notes and this is what I came up with for the tailgate. Tech stories really do help!  After the graphics were laid...  After the graphics were laid out, I then used wax and grease remover to remove the grease pencil markings. From there I proceeded with more masking, being sure to leave only the scallops exposed.  At this point it is time to...  At this point it is time to lay down the House Of Kolor Pagan Gold and UFC-35 Kosmic Klear (three coats of clear). Remember what I said about kandy colors in Part One? The amount of kandy laid down will influence the color's hue, therefore shoot accordingly. By the way, you want to try and do your layout, masking, and painting as quickly as possible. The longer you wait, the greater the chances are of the paint bleeding.  Take your time removing tape...  Take your time removing tape and paper! Tearing into things like it's Christmas morning can cause all kinds of damage, including pulling off paint. When it comes to pulling tape you want to slowly pull into the painted area. This method will actually "cut" the paint at the break in colors while you remove the tape. Once the tape is removed wet-sand the area with 1,000-grit sandpaper. It doesn't need to be perfect, just a little past scuffed up.  Regardless of how you go about...  Regardless of how you go about it, there is going to be a break in the paint where two colors come together. Therefore, an ideal solution (plus it adds some pop) is to lay down some pinstriping along that line. Pinstriping can either be laid down before or after the final coats of clear. (Pinstriping under the clear looks cleaner, and is recommended if possible.) I had local Tulsa, Oklahoma, pinstriper, Ron Meyers lay down some lines before the final coats of clear.  Next up, the entire truck...  Next up, the entire truck was wiped clean with a tack cloth and the final six coats of HOK UFC-35 Kosmic Klear were laid down.  Notice how rough and grainy-especially...  Notice how rough and grainy-especially in the reflection of the fluorescent light-the finish is. The most common term for this is orange peel, for the obvious reason. It's because of this that cutting and buffing is needed.  The final steps kick off with...  The final steps kick off with more sanding. Follow the instructions put forth in Part One and only use the sponge block. Begin with 1,000-grit. This will knock out the majority of the orange peel.  The 1,500-grit will remove...  The 1,500-grit will remove the scratches left from the 1,000-grit, and the 2,000-grit will do the same to the 1,500-grit scratches. Make sure to check your progress periodically by cleaning the areas with the California T-bar squeege and remember that the clear will be easier to cut through where the pinstriping has been laid down.  The last step is buffing,...  The last step is buffing, which is what removes all the sanding scratches and polishes the finish to a high, glossy sheen. Three pads will be needed: a 3M Perfect-It wool cutting pad and two 3M sponge-waffle pads. (I use the black waffle polish pads, but 3M does offer several other styles.)  I recommend a dual-sided wool...  I recommend a dual-sided wool pad, and waffle pads with soft-lips on them. These pads are more forgiving when it comes to burn through. Burn through is when you "catch" an edge and literally burn through the clear down into the basecoat. Not good.  Several compounds will also...  Several compounds will also be needed: Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #4 Heavy-Cut Cleaner...  Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #1...  Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #1 Medium-Cut Cleaner...  and Meguiar's Mirror Glaze...  and Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #3 Machine Glaze.  First, apply the #4 Heavy-Cut...  First, apply the #4 Heavy-Cut Cleaner to the finish. Outfit the rotary buffer (Harbor Freight is a good place to pick up an inexpensive buffer for a beginner) with the wool cutting pad and set it at a medium speed. Place the pad gently on the panel and tap the trigger several times and spread the compound around. (Just nailing the trigger will sling most of the compound off.) Next, use the leading edge of the buffer (think 3 o'clock) and move the buffer in a horizontal motion back and forth working your way down the panel. Once the compound has been buffed off and the area has reached a high luster, it's time to move on.  The second step is to switch...  The second step is to switch up to a waffle pad and apply #1 Medium-Cut to the finish. However, before any compound is applied be sure the area has been cleaned with a micro-fiber cloth, and it is free of any Heavy-Cut compound. From there, buff the surface just like before. The third and final step of buffing is to hit the area with #3 Machine Glaze. Again, be sure the area is cleaned of any previous compounds, and switch up to a new, designated waffle pad. Always be sure to use the same waffle pad per designated compound.  There's not much I'll guarantee,...  There's not much I'll guarantee, but this I stand by. When it comes to painting and louvers, at some point you will say, "what in the world was I thinking ... louvers ... really?!" Although they look cool, they really cause some headaches. Be sure to angle the buffer with the flat surface of the louvers. This is for several reasons; one is the pad catches the flat surface, two, it keeps the buffer off the edge of the louver decreasing the risk of burn through, and three, it will extend the life of your pad-especially waffle pads- because the edges of louvers will really tear things up.  I know this is a little overkill...  I know this is a little overkill for a first timer, but this little handheld buffer/DA kit does wonders in places the 7-inch pad can't get to. It can be picked up at any paint supply house, Harbor Freight, Eastwood, or the like. They even come with designated wool, waffle, and sponge pads.  Here is a perfect example...  Here is a perfect example of where the itty-bitty buffer comes into play, the area just above the wheelwell and under the bed lip.  In years prior, "hand rubbed"...  In years prior, "hand rubbed" was all the rage when it came to lacquer paintjobs. Today, paint is much harder and won't reach its full luster by hand rubbing, but sometimes it's the only option. In times like these, use a 100-percent terry cloth to rub out the area. Apply and repeat until the surface is as shiny as the machined-buffed areas.  Here's what all this sanding,...  Here's what all this sanding, cutting, and buffing has been for. Notice how clean, deep, and glossy the fender looks compared to the door. The fender has been cut and buffed, whereas the door has not. Even in the reflection it's easy to tell the difference. The fender is reflecting a nice rich black tone, whereas the door is cloudy and muddy.  Once the entire truck has...  Once the entire truck has been cut and buffed, it's time to kick back and admire the fruits of your labor.
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The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
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