Get Shorty Paint Job - Project Get Shorty

Several compounds will also be needed: Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #4 Heavy-Cut Cleaner...

Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #1 Medium-Cut Cleaner...

and Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #3 Machine Glaze.

First, apply the #4 Heavy-Cut Cleaner to the finish. Outfit the rotary buffer (Harbor Freight is a good place to pick up an inexpensive buffer for a beginner) with the wool cutting pad and set it at a medium speed. Place the pad gently on the panel and tap the trigger several times and spread the compound around. (Just nailing the trigger will sling most of the compound off.) Next, use the leading edge of the buffer (think 3 o'clock) and move the buffer in a horizontal motion back and forth working your way down the panel. Once the compound has been buffed off and the area has reached a high luster, it's time to move on.

The second step is to switch up to a waffle pad and apply #1 Medium-Cut to the finish. However, before any compound is applied be sure the area has been cleaned with a micro-fiber cloth, and it is free of any Heavy-Cut compound. From there, buff the surface just like before. The third and final step of buffing is to hit the area with #3 Machine Glaze. Again, be sure the area is cleaned of any previous compounds, and switch up to a new, designated waffle pad. Always be sure to use the same waffle pad per designated compound.

There's not much I'll guarantee, but this I stand by. When it comes to painting and louvers, at some point you will say, "what in the world was I thinking ... louvers ... really?!" Although they look cool, they really cause some headaches. Be sure to angle the buffer with the flat surface of the louvers. This is for several reasons; one is the pad catches the flat surface, two, it keeps the buffer off the edge of the louver decreasing the risk of burn through, and three, it will extend the life of your pad-especially waffle pads- because the edges of louvers will really tear things up.

I know this is a little overkill for a first timer, but this little handheld buffer/DA kit does wonders in places the 7-inch pad can't get to. It can be picked up at any paint supply house, Harbor Freight, Eastwood, or the like. They even come with designated wool, waffle, and sponge pads.

Here is a perfect example of where the itty-bitty buffer comes into play, the area just above the wheelwell and under the bed lip.

In years prior, "hand rubbed" was all the rage when it came to lacquer paintjobs. Today, paint is much harder and won't reach its full luster by hand rubbing, but sometimes it's the only option. In times like these, use a 100-percent terry cloth to rub out the area. Apply and repeat until the surface is as shiny as the machined-buffed areas.

Here's what all this sanding, cutting, and buffing has been for. Notice how clean, deep, and glossy the fender looks compared to the door. The fender has been cut and buffed, whereas the door has not. Even in the reflection it's easy to tell the difference. The fender is reflecting a nice rich black tone, whereas the door is cloudy and muddy.

Once the entire truck has been cut and buffed, it's time to kick back and admire the fruits of your labor.