Chevrolet C10 Weatherstrip Replacing - First Things First

The rear window track bolts seen in caption 7 were unbolted completely and removed...

...And the rear track was lifted out of the door.

To remove the vent window assembly the three Phillips screws were unscrewed, and the two bolts (lower front) at the bottom of the front window track were removed.

A chunk of dried-out window channel stuck right in front of the vent window frame felt just like one more hidden bolt needed to be removed.

To remove, the vent window assembly was laid on its back with the lower mount allowed to exit by clearing the widest gap at the front.

The rubber with the fuzzy insides is called the door glass run, and the older it gets the more brittle it becomes. When removed it's best to pull it out in long chunks...

...but the odds are you'll end up with a big pile of crispy critters.

The door run was installed by starting at the bottom of the rear window track, and pushing it into place.

Pinching the door run together makes it easier to drop into the window track.

Using the edge of the window glass is a great way to drive the door glass run home without tearing its fuzzy little guts.

The rear track with the door glass run properly installed leaves a long length of material hanging. To install it the track it was shoved through the access hole and down towards its mounting position.

Next, the hanging length was pulled through the gap.

Then utilizing a technique of using the inside flats of the fingers worked great pressing the door glass run into the door frame, stopping short of the first bend.

Before the door glass run was fitted into the first bend, the retainer clip on the door glass run was pressed into hole for it in the doorframe.

The outer window seal is extremely easy to bend, and you won't be able to straighten it out. Using Royal Purple's Maxfilm insured the outer window seal pressed into place without damage.

I got this baby in here dead straight- trust me, I screwed up a few learning how to do it right. Make absolutely sure the clip on the outer window seal is over the slot for it on the door, and then press it straight down, and I mean straight!

I use a piece of masking tape to guarantee the outer window seal will not be damaged by the glass when it is installed.

The last place left where water can leak through is this gap at the vent window frame.

I like to mask off the area and...

...then pack it with black silicone to leak-proof the gap.

We're all set to install Brothers' direct fit power window kit, but here's where we'll stop this month. Stuff a board right here and you'll be able to prop the window up. Just for giggles you can close the door and shoot the window with a garden hose to see if it leaks.

Please forgive the corny worn-out cliché, but in next month's issue we're really going to rock 'n'roll. Before Brothers power window mechs go in, I'm going to line the doors with Dynamat and enclose the 6x9 speakers the right way with a Boom Mat and DynaXorb. While I'm at we'll also drop in a set of 6x9 cab corner brackets from 73-87.com.