There's a correct order in which improvements should be made to a truck. Skip a few steps, and the toll might be having to buy the same parts all over again. During the last three or so years the '79 Chevy C10 Big 10 known to loyal CCT readers as the Americruise truck has gone through a lot of good changes. The first improvements after buying the truck and readying it to drive across country in only six weeks time for Americruise was to install a Gearstar 4L60E transmission and rack-up over 5,200 test miles in one week on CPP's new trailing-arm kit for '73-87 C10s. Since then I've installed Howell Development's TBI kit, the Wilwood-CPP 14-inch big disc brake kit, Dakota Digital goodies, and a host of other upgrades that can be found in tech stories archived on CCT's website. The one thing that I haven't done to the truck because I have a passion for old vehicles left in original condition is not to mess with the cosmetics. With only 75,000 miles on the clock and kept in a plum farmer's barn most of its life the truck looked pretty good for its age. Unfortunately I don't have enough room in my garage to keep the '79 indoors at night, or out of the sun during the day, so it's been aging at an accelerated rate ever since-kind of like in one of those science fiction movies where a pretty young girl shrivels up into a pile of decrepit dust within seconds. This is especially true of the rubber weather seals on the '79, but the funny thing is I didn't start out to write a story on replacing the rubber. The original plan was to install Brothers' direct-fit power window kit for '73-87 C10s, but I soon came to the realization it would be best to take care of everything at once since the doors would already be apart. Rust is one of the most destructive things that an old truck can be exposed to, and allowing the windows and doors to leak water opens the floodgates to rust other areas of the cab. Besides preventing the spread of cancerous rust, replacing the weatherstripping seals out noise, and helps to contain air-conditioned or heated air. Beyond maintaining comfort levels a properly sealed cab eliminates exposure to dangerous carbon monoxide fumes that ultimately can cause death.
The first thing one learns when a weatherstrip kit arrives from any of the aftermarket parts suppliers is that they have a real mystery on their hands. The box is filled with rubber strips and funny pieces that don't lend any clues on how to install them. Have no fear though, I've bumbled through enough of these rubber installs that I'm actually getting pretty good at achieving what I consider a perfect job. By perfect I mean the metal reinforced parts aren't bent, and the door seals don't fall short, and look like Pee Wee Herman's pant legs. Ultimately the truck should be able to drive down the street without wind whistling, and survive a heavy rainstorm without allowing rainwater to leak inside.

Typical of any '73-87 C10...

Typical of any '73-87 C10 is that time has hardened this rubber outer window seal and allowed a 1/4-inch gap to appear across the top of the door.

It's all about the job looking...

It's all about the job looking clean-I hate cutting a big hole in a door just to mount a stereo speaker, so I concealed a 6x9-inch coaxial speaker behind the cross flow ventilation vents.

We covered the speaker install...

We covered the speaker install in a past issue where I left the window mechs in place and fought like crazy to get the speaker into place. It wasn't long before water got to the speakers and things went south.

The first step to replacing...

The first step to replacing the weather seals is to remove the door panels. I unscrewed the door lock knob; used a door handle tool to remove the clip behind the window crank, and with the clips released, pulled the door panel up and away from the door.

Next, the four bolts holding...

Next, the four bolts holding the window regulator were removed, and the rear window track's two bolts (near door lock) were loosened, but not unbolted completely.

With the window regulator...

With the window regulator hanging freely, the rollers can be disconnected (rear roller first).

Lifting the window upward...

Lifting the window upward beyond its normal up position allows the front roller to be disconnected.

Once the rollers were disconnected...

Once the rollers were disconnected the window was removed in the fashion shown.

Once the rollers were disconnected...

Once the rollers were disconnected the window was removed in the fashion shown.

The rear window track bolts...

The rear window track bolts seen in caption 7 were unbolted completely and removed...

...And the rear track was...

...And the rear track was lifted out of the door.

To remove the vent window...

To remove the vent window assembly the three Phillips screws were unscrewed, and the two bolts (lower front) at the bottom of the front window track were removed.

A chunk of dried-out window...

A chunk of dried-out window channel stuck right in front of the vent window frame felt just like one more hidden bolt needed to be removed.

To remove, the vent window...

To remove, the vent window assembly was laid on its back with the lower mount allowed to exit by clearing the widest gap at the front.

The rubber with the fuzzy...

The rubber with the fuzzy insides is called the door glass run, and the older it gets the more brittle it becomes. When removed it's best to pull it out in long chunks...

...but the odds are you'll...

...but the odds are you'll end up with a big pile of crispy critters.

The door run was installed...

The door run was installed by starting at the bottom of the rear window track, and pushing it into place.

Pinching the door run together...

Pinching the door run together makes it easier to drop into the window track.

Using the edge of the window...

Using the edge of the window glass is a great way to drive the door glass run home without tearing its fuzzy little guts.

The rear track with the door...

The rear track with the door glass run properly installed leaves a long length of material hanging. To install it the track it was shoved through the access hole and down towards its mounting position.

Next, the hanging length was...

Next, the hanging length was pulled through the gap.

Then utilizing a technique...

Then utilizing a technique of using the inside flats of the fingers worked great pressing the door glass run into the door frame, stopping short of the first bend.

Before the door glass run...

Before the door glass run was fitted into the first bend, the retainer clip on the door glass run was pressed into hole for it in the doorframe.

The outer window seal is extremely...

The outer window seal is extremely easy to bend, and you won't be able to straighten it out. Using Royal Purple's Maxfilm insured the outer window seal pressed into place without damage.

I got this baby in here dead...

I got this baby in here dead straight- trust me, I screwed up a few learning how to do it right. Make absolutely sure the clip on the outer window seal is over the slot for it on the door, and then press it straight down, and I mean straight!

I use a piece of masking tape...

I use a piece of masking tape to guarantee the outer window seal will not be damaged by the glass when it is installed.

The last place left where...

The last place left where water can leak through is this gap at the vent window frame.

I like to mask off the area...

I like to mask off the area and...

...then pack it with black...

...then pack it with black silicone to leak-proof the gap.

We're all set to install Brothers'...

We're all set to install Brothers' direct fit power window kit, but here's where we'll stop this month. Stuff a board right here and you'll be able to prop the window up. Just for giggles you can close the door and shoot the window with a garden hose to see if it leaks.

Please forgive the corny worn-out...

Please forgive the corny worn-out cliché, but in next month's issue we're really going to rock 'n'roll. Before Brothers power window mechs go in, I'm going to line the doors with Dynamat and enclose the 6x9 speakers the right way with a Boom Mat and DynaXorb. While I'm at we'll also drop in a set of 6x9 cab corner brackets from 73-87.com.