Brian recommends always replacing...
Brian recommends always replacing the oil seal anytime one is removed from the axle by using a pry bar. For the small price of the oil seal, it is simply not a place to cut corners.
After removing both axles from the axlehousing, Brian chucks up the axles in his metal lathe. While some people might not think about it, Brian knew that the brake register (hole in the middle of the wheel) of the GM rally wheels I planned to use would not fit over the hub end of the existing axleshaft. After measuring the wheel, he first turned down this end of the axle to the appropriate size. He also used fine emery cloth to lightly polish the portion of the axle that rides in the bearing located at each end of the rearend housing. Now it was time to locate the new holes for the wheel mounting studs. When going from one five-bolt pattern to another five-bolt pattern the process is pretty simple. However, since we're changing from six-lug to five-lug, it requires more steps. To ensure there were no weak spots caused by new holes being located too close to existing holes, he welded up one existing hole in each axle. This necessitates that the axles go back onto the lathe for a few cleanup passes to ensure no welding slag remains to interfere with the new mounting studs. With that completed, the new holes could be drilled. Brian feels that his drill fixture is proprietary to his business and asked that I not take photos or discuss that portion of the process. I respectfully obliged. For my specific vehicle, the holes are drilled to 1/2-inch diameter and then reamed to 0.515 inch. The wheels studs are then press fit at 0.530 inch.
A slide hammer is then used...
A slide hammer is then used to remove the bearings from the axle housing. While you don't always need to replace the bearings, it is not a bad idea. Since I have no plans to remove the axles for any additional modifications, it made perfectly good sense to replace the bearings now and be done with them.
The excess grease is wiped...
The excess grease is wiped away and then the new bearing is installed. Use of a bearing installation tool ensures the bearings go in properly.
The new oil seal is installed...
The new oil seal is installed and then the bearings packed with grease. Do not forget to grease the bearings!
Before installing the wheel...
Before installing the wheel studs, Brian uses a small grinder to remove any welding slag or burrs that may be left over from the filing or drilling process. With the axle supported by a vice, the wheel studs are installed by the Armstrong method and a Ford hammer.
Brian recommends replacing the bearings located at each end of the axlehousing and insists on replacing the oil seal whenever an axle is modified or replaced. The relative low cost of these two items makes this sensible when compared to the expense of having a damaged rearend repaired. Insert each rear axle, then slip a C-clip into the groove at the inner end of each axle, then slide each axle outward. Now push the cross-shaft into place and secure with the cross-shaft retaining bolt. Install a new cover gasket, reinstall the rearend cover, and secure with the bolts. Now refill the rearend with gear lube and reinstall the wheels and tires.
With the new disc brakes installed on the front and a matching five-lug bolt pattern front and back, the large-diameter, six-lug wheels that came with the truck must be replaced. Since my plans for this truck are more along the lines of a daily driver shop truck/parts chaser/magazine test mule, I plan to keep the expenses down and the reliability up by installing a simple set of GM rally wheels shod with some BFGoodrich T/A radial tires. I also have a fair amount of bodywork slated for this truck, so I don't want to install something flashy that will be covered with sanding dust and other bodywork grunge.
The original stock axles with...
The original stock axles with their new bolt pattern and new wheel studs are now ready to be reinstalled. Simply guide the axle into the bearing and then push it all the way into the axlehousing.
The wheel flange was painted...
The wheel flange was painted rattle can black before the studs were inserted to help deter the formation of rust on the freshly machined steel.
With both axles in place,...
With both axles in place, the C-clips, cross-shaft, and retaining bolt can then be installed.
The new, finned brake drums...
The new, finned brake drums are then installed. It may be necessary to adjust the brake slightly to get the brake drums to fit over the brake shoes.
The new wheels and tires can...
The new wheels and tires can now be installed and secured with appropriate lug nuts. Brian recommends checking the torque on the lug nuts after approximately 100 miles. Brian finishes the job by installing a new rearend gasket and then reinstalling the rearend cover. With the rearend cover in place, do not forget to refill the differential with rearend gear lube.