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1971 Project Truck Gets A Paint Job - Project Get Shorty - TechPaint It Black From the June, 2010 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Dakota Wentz
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It's been a long time coming, but it's finally time to slap some lipstick on this pig-this pig being Project Get Shorty. After years of grinding, cutting, welding, and hammering on every piece of sheetmetal Get Shorty had to offer, the time to paint has come. To tell ya the truth, I was beginning to think it would be time to party like it's 2099 before this hauler ever escaped its bare metal persona! However, the proverbial carrot in front of the donkey has prevailed, and this '71 will take on its black and gold paint scheme laid down in art form three years ago. Many hobbyists in the automotive realm think paintwork is the equivalent to Sherwood Forest; you simply don't go there. Some consider the world of paint and body so daunting and complex they simply wouldn't even begin to imagine painting their ride. Yet, the truth is, it's like anything else. Once you understand the basics and apply yourself, it's something that can be picked up and accomplished in the garage (a driveway can even be used as a paint booth!), just like fabrication, bolt-on procedures, wiring, and the like. Besides the satisfaction of painting your ride, there are other benefits as well. For instance, painting your own ride will also put a little more change in your pocket. Paintwork is oftentimes the most expensive part of a build, and by only having to deal with the cost of materials, the money saved can be allotted to other areas of the build. Along with that, wouldn't you like to answer, "me" when someone asks you who sprayed your ride? Because of the aforementioned, the next two installments in the Project Get Shorty saga will focus upon painting the '71. Part One will kick things off at ground zero and cover such things as the basics, getting started, and the early stages of the process. Part Two will finish things up with layout, cutting, and buffing. In a nutshell, we're gonna cover the painting process from start to finish. Keep in mind, it's mathematically impossible (and yes, I checked using various forms of theorems, equations, and algorithms!) to cram everything one would need to know about painting in the form of written word. Therefore, these stories will cover the ABCs to get you headed down the right path. As for D through Z, you'll pick that up with experience, practice, and the ever-so infamous trial and error.  Much like techniques, another...  Much like techniques, another common ground found among professional painters is that each has their own preference when it comes to paint manufacturers. For this story we're sticking to House of Kolor products. Here is a lineup of all the needed supplies for a two-stage paintjob: KP2CF primer, Ko-Seal II sealer, Black BC25, and Solar Gold BC01 Shimrin basecoat, KBC12 Pagan Gold kandy (only needed if the color of choice is kandy), UFC35 clearcoat, KU-311 reducer, and KU-100 and -150 hardeners.  If a paint booth is out of...  If a paint booth is out of the question, which is a pretty common scenario, the house garage will work fine. Here are some simple pointers to increase painting conditions. Place barriers up to limit overspray. Wet the floor and sweep out the excess water before painting. The dampness will help keep dust and dirt from swirling around. If possible, create a slight draft in the garage by utilizing garage doors, filters, and a fan. This will create a draft and help push overspray out the door, increasing visibility. (Note: this isn't exactly the most "green friendly" way to paint, but it will get the job done.) Before any spraying occurs, wipe the surface clean with lacquer thinner or some sort of paint prep cleaner.  Next, dust the area with a...  Next, dust the area with a tack cloth. Although the surface may look clean, it's not. These little guys will pick up more dust, dirt, and grime than a CSI ultraviolet wand at a crime scene! Always tack the vehicle before the first coat of the next process.  Here's a good example of why...  Here's a good example of why you always mix paint thoroughly. Paints are comprised of several elements, and once they sit those elements separate and settle. Therefore, always stir until an even consistency is achieved. Once stirred, mix the needed ingredients accordingly in a mixing cup, and then strain the concoction before pouring it in the gun.  The second element to spraying...  The second element to spraying is fan pattern. You want an even-flowing fan with good fluid consistency. The top fan is just right. It's even, consistent, and smooth. Notice how the top and bottom edges of the correct fan begin to fade; it's because of this that 50 percent overlap passes are necessary. The middle pattern is too little air pressure, which results in a blotchy fan. The bottom is too much pressure. Too much pressure creates excess material being projected in the air, which essentially creates no fan. Several knobs on the gun control fan pattern so familiarize yourself with your gun before getting started.  Keep these rules of thumb...  Keep these rules of thumb in mind when spraying. Always place the gun perpendicular with the surface being sprayed at a distance of 6-8 inches. Maintain a free-flowing wrist that can bend and turn with the surface in order to keep the gun perpendicular at the required distance. Lastly, always begin at the top or bottom-as well as the front or back-of a panel maintaining a 50 percent overlap spray pattern. (Photo notes 50 percent overlap increments.)  Keep these rules of thumb...  Keep these rules of thumb in mind when spraying. Always place the gun perpendicular with the surface being sprayed at a distance of 6-8 inches. Maintain a free-flowing wrist that can bend and turn with the surface in order to keep the gun perpendicular at the required distance. Lastly, always begin at the top or bottom-as well as the front or back-of a panel maintaining a 50 percent overlap spray pattern. (Photo notes 50 percent overlap increments.)  One more thing, it's a good...  One more thing, it's a good idea to install some sort of water trap filter in your hose line. This will help eliminate any water entering the picture and causing problems.  Once the gun was set, it was...  Once the gun was set, it was time for me to lay down the first coats of HOK primer. Always begin with a light coat, and allow the primer to flash-or in laymen's terms: dry-per the manufacturer's direction before ensuing coats. The light coat will create a tacky base, which makes the following coats grab hold and stick. Follow with three heavy coats. In theory, paintwork is more or less the same across the board. It all consists of primer, blocking, basecoat, clearcoat, and cutting and buffing. However, painting parallels the Reese's Peanut Butter Cup, there's no wrong way to eat a Reese's. Every painter has their own method, style, and technique. With that said, the following process is my way. As you sift through the following pages, one thing you may notice is this painting process is as basic and as simple as it gets. The use of fancy body files, DAs, Jitterbugs, and the like have all been passed up for the more commonly found tools, like hand blocks, paper, and the ever-so-versatile human. However, there are other tools that must be picked up, such as a paint gun. The suction type guns of yesteryear have been passed up for the more friendly HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) guns. The great thing about these guns is the fact that they require roughly 4 cfm at 29 psi, which makes them compatible with many air compressors, even little 110 outfits. Mixing cups, air filters, respirators, paint sticks, strainers, tack rags, and other things (we'll cover all in the story) synonymous with paintwork round out the arsenal. All tools and materials needed, including paint, can be picked up at local paint and body supply houses. If you're unsure of one in your area, then companies such as Eastwood and Summit carry everything needed as well. Eastwood and Summit even carry their own lines of paint products. Other paint products can be ordered direct from the manufacturer. As you can see, this process is perfect for the novice, being that there isn't a good chunk of change standing in your way towards a killer DIY paintjob. Oh yeah, a fearless, yet tentative approach is a good tool to carry into battle as well. Before we delve into the subject matter at hand remember this key underlining theme to painting your ride; painting is not a sprint, it's a marathon that requires time, patience, and forethought. This mindset may take you to the edge, but the end result will quickly settle any frustrations or setbacks. Now, study the onslaught of knowledge that is about to be absorbed, face the fear, and go lay down a wicked awesome paintjob on your truck!  Three sanding blocks will...  Three sanding blocks will be needed in order to ensure a straight, sleek, and smooth finish during the blocking process. One is a conventional hard block, perfect for cutting flat surfaces to create a straight finish. Second, is a medium based block, which too can be used for flat surfaces, but it is much more forgiving when blocking mild radiuses. Lastly, a sponge block is needed. The sponge block isn't aggressive enough to flat-spot curves, yet just aggressive enough to keep a straight finish without leaving behind trails of fingerprints.  When it comes to sanding radiuses,...  When it comes to sanding radiuses, such as the top of a fender, you want to sand through the curve, as opposed to with it. By sanding through the curve, the curve will maintain its round shape. Step down to the medium block. This block will keep an aggressive cut while bending with the curvature ever so slightly. On sharp curves and bends the sponge block will need to be used.  I first began blocking with...  I first began blocking with wet/dry 220-grit 3M paper. Begin using a hard block with a touch of water running over the block at all times. When blocking, use long strokes, 10-12 inches, to ensure the area is being sanded evenly. Short strokes will create sinkholes and low spots in the finish, a big no-no. Here's where the guide comes into play. Notice after a few strokes the unevenness of the finish is clear as day, hence the need to block. Sand the area until an even finish of base is all that is left. After all the sanding is finished... After all the sanding is finished things should look something like this. Now, some folks only block once. I did it twice. Once I blocked with 220 I re-sprayed and blocked with 400-grit. It may be more work, but it does wonders when creating a straight and even finish. If you wish to block once, then block with 400. Sanding marks from 220-grit paper cannot be covered up.  After blocking, spray the...  After blocking, spray the surface with a sealer. In my case it's Ko-Seal II HOK Primer Sealer. Sealer will keep the color of the primer, sanding scratches, and the like from bleeding up into the final finish. Once again, three coats are applied.  Immediately follow your basecoat...  Immediately follow your basecoat with the necessary clearcoat, my clearcoat of choice is HOK UFC35 clear. Again, one light coat to create a tacky base; however, this time I laid down six heavy coats.  Now comes the daunting task...  Now comes the daunting task of masking things off. In my case, Get Shorty is black and gold two-toned. Therefore anything I didn't want black, or gold, needed to be masked off with a combination of 3M automotive refinishing masking tape and paper.  As for the Kandy Pagan Gold,...  As for the Kandy Pagan Gold, it's a bit tricky. Pagan Gold is a kandy color, therefore a basecoat of HOK Shimrin BC01 Solar Gold must be laid down until an even color is reached. At that point the HOK KBC12 Pagan Gold can be laid down. The amount of kandy coats laid down will alter the hue of Pagan Gold desired, so choose accordingly. Once the kandy is down, six coats of clear are then applied.  Next, my HOK BC25 black basecoat...  Next, my HOK BC25 black basecoat was mixed accordingly and sprayed. Once again, always start with a light coat and then proceed to roughly three heavy coats-less if the area has taken on a consistent and even finish of the color being applied.  Now that the basecoat is sealed...  Now that the basecoat is sealed off with a good layer of clear, it's time to begin perfecting the finish. After all, no one wants a "drug store" finish to their ride.  In order to remove orange...  In order to remove orange peel, settled debris, runs, and other defects, more blocking is necessary. This time 3M 600-grit wet/dry paper is used with a soft sponge block and clean water. At this point, the underlying finish is straight and even, all that's left is to create a smooth and sleek topcoat. For that reason I switched to the soft sponge. It's aggressive enough to cut down blemishes, waviness, and orange peel; yet it's mild enough to not flatspot radiuses. However, continue to sand through curves, radiuses, and the like to keep consistency. When sanding you'll notice the clear will leave behind a white film. Be sure to clean each finished area immediately because this film can eat into the fresh paint.  One thing that you don't want...  One thing that you don't want to do is sand through the clear and down into the basecoat, and with no guide it can be hard to decipher where one ends and the other starts. Therefore, use one of these California Car Cover T-bar squeegees. With a quick swipe of the blade you can check your progress.  An up-close shot of the dry...  An up-close shot of the dry area shows that some areas appear clean, smooth, and defect free, while others still show the rings of debris and blemishes. At this point the areas with defects need to be sanded more. However, try and keep away from areas already finished. Sanding areas already finished will only increase the chances of cutting through-again something you want to avoid at all costs.  It's important to try and...  It's important to try and not cut through to the layers underneath, and when it comes to edges, it doesn't take much to ruin your day. Therefore, sand away from the edges. A little bit of an imperfection left behind on an edge will hardly be noticeable.  Runs, sags, curtains ... Call...  Runs, sags, curtains ... Call em' what you want, but they're a part of the process. In fact, if you don't get a few runs here and there then you flat out ain't trying hard enough! When it comes to sanding out runs, hit the bulk of things with a medium block and follow up with a sponge block. Doing this will bring the raised surface back in line with the even finish.  At this point it's time to...  At this point it's time to reassemble Get Shorty. When we pick back up next time, we will lay down the scallops and continue on with cutting and buffing the '71.
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1959 Ford F-100
Scott Oshinki rebuilt a 1959 Ford F-100 for his father-in-law Art Carney....
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