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 As for the Kandy Pagan Gold,...  As for the Kandy Pagan Gold, it's a bit tricky. Pagan Gold is a kandy color, therefore a basecoat of HOK Shimrin BC01 Solar Gold must be laid down until an even color is reached. At that point the HOK KBC12 Pagan Gold can be laid down. The amount of kandy coats laid down will alter the hue of Pagan Gold desired, so choose accordingly. Once the kandy is down, six coats of clear are then applied.  Next, my HOK BC25 black basecoat...  Next, my HOK BC25 black basecoat was mixed accordingly and sprayed. Once again, always start with a light coat and then proceed to roughly three heavy coats-less if the area has taken on a consistent and even finish of the color being applied.  Now that the basecoat is sealed...  Now that the basecoat is sealed off with a good layer of clear, it's time to begin perfecting the finish. After all, no one wants a "drug store" finish to their ride.  In order to remove orange...  In order to remove orange peel, settled debris, runs, and other defects, more blocking is necessary. This time 3M 600-grit wet/dry paper is used with a soft sponge block and clean water. At this point, the underlying finish is straight and even, all that's left is to create a smooth and sleek topcoat. For that reason I switched to the soft sponge. It's aggressive enough to cut down blemishes, waviness, and orange peel; yet it's mild enough to not flatspot radiuses. However, continue to sand through curves, radiuses, and the like to keep consistency. When sanding you'll notice the clear will leave behind a white film. Be sure to clean each finished area immediately because this film can eat into the fresh paint.  One thing that you don't want...  One thing that you don't want to do is sand through the clear and down into the basecoat, and with no guide it can be hard to decipher where one ends and the other starts. Therefore, use one of these California Car Cover T-bar squeegees. With a quick swipe of the blade you can check your progress.  An up-close shot of the dry...  An up-close shot of the dry area shows that some areas appear clean, smooth, and defect free, while others still show the rings of debris and blemishes. At this point the areas with defects need to be sanded more. However, try and keep away from areas already finished. Sanding areas already finished will only increase the chances of cutting through-again something you want to avoid at all costs.  It's important to try and...  It's important to try and not cut through to the layers underneath, and when it comes to edges, it doesn't take much to ruin your day. Therefore, sand away from the edges. A little bit of an imperfection left behind on an edge will hardly be noticeable.  Runs, sags, curtains ... Call...  Runs, sags, curtains ... Call em' what you want, but they're a part of the process. In fact, if you don't get a few runs here and there then you flat out ain't trying hard enough! When it comes to sanding out runs, hit the bulk of things with a medium block and follow up with a sponge block. Doing this will bring the raised surface back in line with the even finish.  At this point it's time to...  At this point it's time to reassemble Get Shorty. When we pick back up next time, we will lay down the scallops and continue on with cutting and buffing the '71.
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