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1971 Project Truck Gets A Paint Job - Project Get Shorty - Tech
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In theory, paintwork is more or less the same across the board. It all consists of primer, blocking, basecoat, clearcoat, and cutting and buffing. However, painting parallels the Reese's Peanut Butter Cup, there's no wrong way to eat a Reese's. Every painter has their own method, style, and technique. With that said, the following process is my way. As you sift through the following pages, one thing you may notice is this painting process is as basic and as simple as it gets. The use of fancy body files, DAs, Jitterbugs, and the like have all been passed up for the more commonly found tools, like hand blocks, paper, and the ever-so-versatile human. However, there are other tools that must be picked up, such as a paint gun. The suction type guns of yesteryear have been passed up for the more friendly HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) guns. The great thing about these guns is the fact that they require roughly 4 cfm at 29 psi, which makes them compatible with many air compressors, even little 110 outfits. Mixing cups, air filters, respirators, paint sticks, strainers, tack rags, and other things (we'll cover all in the story) synonymous with paintwork round out the arsenal. All tools and materials needed, including paint, can be picked up at local paint and body supply houses. If you're unsure of one in your area, then companies such as Eastwood and Summit carry everything needed as well. Eastwood and Summit even carry their own lines of paint products. Other paint products can be ordered direct from the manufacturer. As you can see, this process is perfect for the novice, being that there isn't a good chunk of change standing in your way towards a killer DIY paintjob. Oh yeah, a fearless, yet tentative approach is a good tool to carry into battle as well. Before we delve into the subject matter at hand remember this key underlining theme to painting your ride; painting is not a sprint, it's a marathon that requires time, patience, and forethought. This mindset may take you to the edge, but the end result will quickly settle any frustrations or setbacks. Now, study the onslaught of knowledge that is about to be absorbed, face the fear, and go lay down a wicked awesome paintjob on your truck!  Three sanding blocks will...  Three sanding blocks will be needed in order to ensure a straight, sleek, and smooth finish during the blocking process. One is a conventional hard block, perfect for cutting flat surfaces to create a straight finish. Second, is a medium based block, which too can be used for flat surfaces, but it is much more forgiving when blocking mild radiuses. Lastly, a sponge block is needed. The sponge block isn't aggressive enough to flat-spot curves, yet just aggressive enough to keep a straight finish without leaving behind trails of fingerprints.  When it comes to sanding radiuses,...  When it comes to sanding radiuses, such as the top of a fender, you want to sand through the curve, as opposed to with it. By sanding through the curve, the curve will maintain its round shape. Step down to the medium block. This block will keep an aggressive cut while bending with the curvature ever so slightly. On sharp curves and bends the sponge block will need to be used.  I first began blocking with...  I first began blocking with wet/dry 220-grit 3M paper. Begin using a hard block with a touch of water running over the block at all times. When blocking, use long strokes, 10-12 inches, to ensure the area is being sanded evenly. Short strokes will create sinkholes and low spots in the finish, a big no-no. Here's where the guide comes into play. Notice after a few strokes the unevenness of the finish is clear as day, hence the need to block. Sand the area until an even finish of base is all that is left.  After all the sanding is finished...  After all the sanding is finished things should look something like this. Now, some folks only block once. I did it twice. Once I blocked with 220 I re-sprayed and blocked with 400-grit. It may be more work, but it does wonders when creating a straight and even finish. If you wish to block once, then block with 400. Sanding marks from 220-grit paper cannot be covered up.  After blocking, spray the...  After blocking, spray the surface with a sealer. In my case it's Ko-Seal II HOK Primer Sealer. Sealer will keep the color of the primer, sanding scratches, and the like from bleeding up into the final finish. Once again, three coats are applied.  Immediately follow your basecoat...  Immediately follow your basecoat with the necessary clearcoat, my clearcoat of choice is HOK UFC35 clear. Again, one light coat to create a tacky base; however, this time I laid down six heavy coats.  Now comes the daunting task...  Now comes the daunting task of masking things off. In my case, Get Shorty is black and gold two-toned. Therefore anything I didn't want black, or gold, needed to be masked off with a combination of 3M automotive refinishing masking tape and paper.
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The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
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