One of the most common modifications when it comes to classic trucks is engine and transmission swaps. But with said modifications comes many others that are sometimes not taken into consideration at first. Oftentimes it's necessary to modify the chassis to accept a heavier engine or one that mounts in a different manner than the original. Boxing the framerails is a common modification done to strengthen the frame and give the motor something solid to mount to. Modifications to the firewall are also a common necessity when it comes to installing a late-model overdrive automatic transmission. But one thing that is often overlooked at first are the pedals.
While some stock applications may be acceptable, most of the time it will be deemed necessary to replace the entire assembly with one that is designed to work with the other components being installed. This is not only easier than modifying the original components; it ensures that the geometry is correct when it comes to pedal ratio. We chose to use a Total Cost Involved brake and clutch pedal mounting kit since it is set up out of the box with the correct length pedals for the F-1 series trucks and accepts a standard Wilwood-style clutch master cylinder and dual brake master cylinder with a 7-inch booster. That is quite an improvement over the fruit jar-style master cylinder and solid clutch linkage original to the truck.
The original pedal assembly was incorporated into a crossmember that also acted as the transmission mount. At some point in the past, the crossmember in my truck was cut out, most likely to make room for a different drivetrain combo. The two stubs at either end were left in place but will be removed before the new pedal kit is installed. The driver's side stub, however, is what the stock pedals mount to and it would be wise to give ourselves a baseline as to where the stock brake pedal was located as a comparison reference once the new pedal kit is in place. To accomplish this, I made a simple pointer out of solid steel rod that was bent to mark where the stock brake pedal sat in the upright position. This gave me a point of reference once the old pedals were removed and the new kit was being located. Once in place, it's just a matter of maneuvering both pedals to clear the chassis and engine bellhousing, bolting the cab back down, and ensuring everything is in the right place.
With the master cylinders under the floor, it was necessary to make a couple of access panels, which I fabricated from 16-gauge aluminum. A pair of pedal trim pieces from Yogi's were also installed to clean up the floor and give a finished look to where the pedals exit the floor. Now that the master cylinders are in place, it's almost time to start bending brake lines and plumbing the rest of the truck. Stay tuned!
Here's the stock F-1 pedal...
Here's the stock F-1 pedal assembly still attached to the chassis. Note the cobbled crossmember. In order to use the stock pedals, not only would they need to be modified to accept the hydraulic pushrods, but the mounting surface would also need to be reworked. A simpler solution would be to replace the entire stock unit with an aftermarket setup.
Before the stock assembly...
Before the stock assembly is removed however, it would be helpful to locate where the new pedals need to end up. To accomplish this, I used a section of steel rod to support the stock pedal in the forward-most location. Once the old assembly is removed, the steel rod stays in place and acts to help locate the new pedal kit. It's not exact, but it's better than guessing and easier than wrestling the cab on and off the chassis to get the location correct.
Here's the pedal assembly...
Here's the pedal assembly we'll be using. It's a Total Cost Involved kit made to fit the F-1 series trucks and features a 7-inch booster and new dual master cylinder on the brake side and a Wilwood 3/4-inch hydraulic master cylinder on the clutch side.
The first step to installing...
The first step to installing the pedal kit is to bolt the mounting bracket to the frame bracket and then clamp the entire unit to the framerail. A 1/4-inch piece of aluminum is used as a shim underneath the top of the frame to ensure that there's adequate space between the bracket and the cab floor.
Once the bracket is clamped...
Once the bracket is clamped in place, the pedals can be installed. Here, you can see where the pedal ended up in relation to the steel rod that is our location aid. While the pedal ended up slightly inboard of the stock unit, the forward location is spot on.
There are two things that...
There are two things that come into play when it comes to locating the pedal assembly; the framerail on the left side and the engine bellhousing on the right. Once the pedals are spaced to where they clear on either side, the mounting bracket is tacked to the framerail.