16-Inch Disc Brake Kit Install for 1963-1987 Chevy C10's - Disc Proportioned

The cap screws used to attach the mounting plate to the spindle were inserted from outside of the mounting plate.

The cap screws were secured by placing hardened aircraft SAE washers and then 1/2-13 coarse thread locknuts on the spindle side. The locknuts were then torqued to 55 ft-lb.

Here's a close-up of the completed spindle assembly.

Bearing in mind the rotors are directional we slipped them over the spindle and followed with the outer wheel bearing.

Then the thrust washer was aligned with the notch in the spindle and slipped on followed with the castle nut.

To fully seat the wheel bearings we torqued the castle nut to 12 ft-lb while turning the rotor assembly by hand and then backing the castle nut off. The wheel bearing thrust can be adjusted by setting the castle nut to 11 ft-lb of torque, and then checked to ensure there is 0.001 to 0.005 inch of endplay.

After the wheel bearings were properly adjusted we inserted the cotter pin. Never tighten the castle nut when aligning the cotter pin with the hole in the spindle; only loosen it. Fold the cotter pin ends in the same manner used for the ball joints.

Most wheel bearing dust caps are pressed (or tapped) on the hub. The Alston's Chassisworks dust cap is a super clean arrangement that threads on. Alston's Chassisworks advises to apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads and then screw it on hand tight. They only need to be hand tightened because there is an o-ring inside that prevents loosening after installation.

Let's race! Here's a shot of the completed front suspension sans the Wilwood six-piston caliper and some kind of super-light alloy 20-inch wheel to keep the unsprung weight down.

To prepare the Wilwood six-piston caliper for mounting we had to remove the caliper pad retainer bolts and the anti-rattle clip.

The next step was to place the caliper onto the aluminum mounting bracket with the bleeders toward the top (note there is a left and right side caliper) and fasten the caliper to the bracket. The bolt holes were aligned and the Allen head cap screws were torqued to 40 ft-lb.

If this won't lock 'em up nothing will -Here's the whole enchilada ready to be plumbed into the rear brakes and master cylinder.

With the caliper in place, the pads, retaining bolts, and the anti-rattle clip can be installed.