There's no two ways about it, the more comfortable your classic truck is to drive the more you are going to enjoy driving it. Right from the get-go the plan for my '79 C10, known as the Americruise truck, was to ultimately end up with a classic truck that could hold its own with the best of today's modern highway machines. This means not only in acceleration, braking, and handling, but the comfort level in the cab as well.
In last month's edition of CCT we dealt with upgrading the '79's stock dash cluster with a Dakota Digital unit. This took it from vague analog readings to precise digital information. I was so pleased with the end results that I took a closer look at what else Dakota Digital has to offer for '73-87 Chevy and GMC trucks. In addition to a Dakota Digital cruise control unit we'll be installing in an upcoming issue, I discovered Dakota Digital offers an LED taillight conversion kit for the late C10, and a really bitchin' auto-dimming rearview mirror that comes complete with an outside thermometer and a compass.
Perhaps some might think of an outside temp gauge as just a novelty, but there are additional benefits. Besides informing you if the air conditioning or heater is saving you from exposure to the elements, knowledge of the ambient temperature can be a forewarning of ominous things to come. If the ambient temperature is over three digits one can anticipate engine overheating or diminishing oil-pressure.
The stock GM day/night mirror...
The stock GM day/night mirror is removed by unscrewing the Allen set screw on the base of the mirror's stem.
It's not a bad idea to know which direction one is traveling in either, but what I found particularly nice about the auto-dimming feature is that it works full-time. Not only at night, but it eliminates rearview mirror glare during the day. Not having to reach for the stock mirror and yank the day/night lever means rearview adjustment will not be disturbed. Before I installed the Dakota Digital rearview mirror in the '79 there were a few concerns to address. Unlike all of the new trucks and some classic trucks with upholstered cardboard headliners where the wiring can be tucked underneath the headliner my '79's headliner, is made out of steel. To hide the wiring for the Dakota Digital mirror I had to eliminate a large plastic plug, and shroud the mirror's wiring.
Moving on to the Dakota Digital LED taillight conversion kit, I chose it because not only are the LEDs brighter, but they last a lot longer than conventional tungsten element bulbs. In this age of an increasing number of moronic idiots behind the steering wheel it's not a bad idea to make one's truck more visible.
To remove the stock mirror...
To remove the stock mirror we lifted it upward while not touching the windshield glass. It is important not to yank the mirror forward as it will dislodge (bust) the mounting shoe from the windshield.
Next we placed the Dakota...
Next we placed the Dakota Digital mirror over the stock GM shoe and connected the plug. There was a little slop left, so if we can't take it out with clear silicone sealer then the next step is to fit a late-model shoe.
Instead of an Allen wrench,...
Instead of an Allen wrench, the new mirror requires a T-15 Torq driver to tighten it down. We were careful not to over-tighten the set screw.
Because the connector plug...
Because the connector plug couldn't be tucked away and hidden under a headliner, it was eliminated. Note the two green wires are identified with orange electrical tape to avoid a mix-up.
Non-insulated butt connectors...
Non-insulated butt connectors were used to join the 26-gauge mirror harness and 16-guage main wiring harness together. Shrink tubing on the butt connectors was used for insulation.
A word of warning to the wise;...
A word of warning to the wise; after departing the electronics store on a hot day I left the shrink tubing in the cab of my truck and it shriveled up before I could use it. That was $20 down the drain.
For trucks that have a headliner,...
For trucks that have a headliner, the red, black, and two green wires don't need to be concealed. For trucks without a headliner black shrink tubing works great for camouflage. It's best if the shrinking is done before lifting the wiring harness into place.
To route the wiring as clean...
To route the wiring as clean as possible I routed it underneath the Dakota Digital mirror's base and aligned it with the two antenna wires contained in the windshield.
The trick to hiding the wiring...
The trick to hiding the wiring inside the windshield rubber is to use a Craftsman glass tool with a can of Royal Purple Maxfilm to spread the rubber and glide the wiring along.
Hey look, magic; the wiring...
Hey look, magic; the wiring disappeared! Always a source of enjoyment is the personal satisfaction achieved by doing a clean job ... even if I do say myself.
After running the wiring across...
After running the wiring across the top of the windshield frame and down the A-pillar to the fuse box, the next step was to find a 12-volt source that was hot (live) only when the ignition switch was turned on.
After the red wire was connected,...
After the red wire was connected, and the black wire was grounded to the firewall next to the fuse box, the green temp probe wires (right of fuse box) were routed into the engine compartment.
The hole used to route the...
The hole used to route the green temp wires was the stock speedometer hole. Refer to last month's CCT and you will see this is where we routed the Dakota Digital speedometer wires as well.
Once the green temp probe...
Once the green temp probe wires were routed over the driver-side fenderwell and along the front of the radiator core support they were ready to attach, but not before we polished the chrome.
Taking the time to polish...
Taking the time to polish the chrome is something most shops don't do while they are doing an install. Notice how much nicer the job looks with shiny chrome and the temp probe installed where it should be.
Blasting a quartz-halogen...
Blasting a quartz-halogen flashlight into the Dakota Digital mirror proves the dimming feature works. Notice the outside thermometer is reading 80 degrees. The compass wasn't calibrated at this point, but driving the truck three 5-mph laps is all that is needed to calibrate it and provide a digital display.
To install the Dakota Digital...
To install the Dakota Digital LED taillights we removed the stock '73-87 C10 taillight lens with a T-15 Torq driver, and popped the lens off.
Next, the reflector was cleaned...
Next, the reflector was cleaned thoroughly with a non-aggressive product.
Then Bosch dielectric grease...
Then Bosch dielectric grease was applied to the LED socket to ensure against corrosion.
Next, the LED was plugged...
Next, the LED was plugged in and tested to see if it worked.
The Dakota Digital LED taillights...
The Dakota Digital LED taillights are held in with a special 3M adhesive. A 3M primer was applied and then allowed to set for 5 minutes.
Then the Dakota Digital taillight...
Then the Dakota Digital taillight was installed and retested before moving on.
Since the Dakota Digital '73-87...
Since the Dakota Digital '73-87 C10 LED taillights don't come with lens like the Dakota Digital '60-66 LED taillights do,...
...we picked up a pair of...
...we picked up a pair of '73-87 C10 taillight lens from Brothers in Corona, CA.