1971 Chevy C10 Raised Truck Bed Modifications - Project Get Shorty

The flange and flange supports were then welded to the inner bedsides. Once the side flanges were in place, I duplicated front and rear flanges, only this time I flipped the angle iron with the vertical side pointed up, in order to hold the wood in place, and keep it from sliding forwards or rearwards.

It was then time to fabricate bracing. I measured from flange edge to flange edge.

I then transferred the measurements to 1 1/2-inch square tubing with 1/8-inch walls. I was also sure to add three inches to the flange-to-flange measurements.

Here's why I added three inches. I wanted the braces to sit flush with the flanges; therefore I trimmed out 1 1/2 inches, a 1/8-inch deep, from the top of the brace. This notch will allow me to tuck the brace under the flange for a clean fit.

I then welded two braces at the front of the bed, in line with the factory's second and third (moving from the front towards the back) mounting holes. I also mounted a brace in line with rear mounting holes of the inner fenders.

Notice that I have fabricated my own bed mounts. Due to the fact the floor has been raised three inches; mounts are something that are going to have to be taken into consideration. I choose to make an arch, constructed from 16-gauge sheetmetal, which flows with the frame and bracing for my front bed mounts. However, any style would work, so long as it's sturdy and secure.

As for my rear mounts, I made these boxed triangular mounts that slide over the framerails.

With the main braces in place it was time to create the inner structure. First, I needed to mount an inner fender brace. I measured the distance between the outside edges of the flange to the centerline of the mounting holes on the inner fenders. At that point, I welded a piece of the 1-inch angle iron between the 2nd and 3rd braces.

Here's a better look. Notice the angle iron running congruent to the inner fender's mounting-hole centers. I then placed the stainless steel mounting straps in place. From there I lined up 1 1/2x1/4-inch rectangular tubing to the centerline of the mounting holes on the straps and welded them in place. These will act as bed wood mounting points for the carriage bolts.

Next, our Bruce Horkey wood kit was thrown in place.

Using our original spacers from the first install.

Because the wood kit originally mounted underneath the factory flange, and I have changed it to atop the flange, we used up nearly an inch of real estate. Therefore, our outside boards needed to be trimmed slightly to fit the gap.

At this point everything is set in place, however the inner fenders must be adjusted to fit. Before, the top of the inner fenders ran just below the beltline on the inner bed panels. Now they will have to sit just above that line. In order to achieve the right fit, a 1/4 inch was trimmed from the inner fenders: Notice the before and after shot.

With the inner fenders trimmed they were slid into place. Notice how clean the fenders flow with the beltline when trimmed right.

It truly does look factory . . . well almost factory.