1956 Ford F-100 Chassis KBS Rust Seal - Rust Is Creepy

Although the results are not as immediate as sandpaper, this 4-inch drum type wire wheel on a body grinder worked fine to get into hard-to-reach areas.

Once the 40-grit had done its job, it was time to move on to a less-aggressive 150-grit sandpaper.

For those concerned about sanding scratches remaining in the paint, notice how much finer the scratches in the metal appear using 150-grit in comparison to 40-grit sandpaper.

The bare minimum for protecting one's lungs when doing this kind of work is to wear a particle mask.

A disposable respirator such as this 3M 81105 is a vast improvement, but remember to always have good ventilation when using a device that only filters air as opposed to supplying fresh air.

Trust KBS Coatings when they say Rust Seal will not come off of skin after it has dried.

It is very important to mix (stir-up) Rust Seal before using or a thick lump like this will clog your spray gun.

Properly mixing Rust Seal is not a guarantee that something will not clog your gun's spray nozzle. We used a paint strainer and the gun didn't clog once.

This is how our chassis appeared when we felt it was ready for paint. Notice there is still a fair amount of surface rust.

This is how Rust Seal appeared right after it was sprayed. Don't worry about the high gloss, it will flatten out as soon as the Rust Seal dries.

Since our rear suspension was in great shape we left everything in place, including the 9-inch Ford rearend and painted it as a whole.

Although KBS recommends using their thinner we used acetone to clean every part of our gun including the cup.

Another good practice when it comes to cleaning a spray gun is to remove the fluid head, and make sure it is spotless before storing the gun away.