|
|
1958 Chevy Fleetside Truck Mustang II IFS Kit Install - Actually See The USA In Your ChevroletUpdate A '55-59 GM Chassis The Easy Way From the November, 2008 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By CCT Staff Photography by Mike Harrington
|
|
Just because something can be driven, that doesn't mean it should be. For instance, '55-59 Chevy trucks can get from point A to point B just fine, but that's about it. Stepping out of the cab of one of those trucks after a long haul is the equivalent of Wyatt Earp dismounting his horse after a long, hard day's ride during his vendetta on the Cowboys. Let's just say those old cowboys drank whiskey at night for a reason-aches and pains being that reason. If your tastes don't exactly gel with that of the Western Frontiersmen, well then it's time to update that old straight-axle up front. When it comes to bringing a '55-59 Chevy/GMC chassis into the new wave of auto engineering, there is an extensive amount of options. From expensive to cheap, and simple to complex, there are a wide variety of setups to choose from. But if you're looking in the market of effective, simple, reliable, and most importantly affordable, all the while keeping driveability and handling in the forefront, then Total Cost Involved has the answer for you. Total Cost Involved specializes in chassis and suspension products for numerous vehicles, including '55-59 GM trucks. In fact, Total Cost Involved covers these year trucks through and through. They not only manufacture replacement suspension and chassis parts, but they also have full rolling chassis available as well. For those of you looking to keep it basic, their Mustang II IFS frontend kit is on the money, in both affordability and performance. Total Cost Involved has a direct replacement Mustang II kit that will replace that straight-axle. The heart of the kit is the new crossmember, which features direct mounting points and coil-spring shock towers. From there the unit is outfitted with 1-inch tubular A-arms, spindles (stock height or 2-inch drop), a new rack-and-pinion gear (manual or power), 10-inch GM-style disc brakes, black-powdercoated springs and painted shocks. Basically everything needed to bring your 50 year-old hauler into the 21st century way of thinking ... and most importantly driving. With this new frontend you'll be able to jump behind the wheel of your hauler with your Mapquest directions guiding you wherever it is your heart desires. You'll even step out of the cab wanting more. Follow along as Total Cost Involved installs its kit on a '58 Chevy.  Make sure your tetanus shots...  Make sure your tetanus shots are up to date when taking apart a rusted ol' stock '58 Chevy Apache Fleetside.  Obviously, the first step...  Obviously, the first step is to remove the axle, springs, and shocks in order to make room for the new components.  One of the things that was...  One of the things that was done to the frame before the removal of any other components was to weld a crossbrace to the frame. This was done prior to the removal of the front crossmember, due to the fact the boys at Total Cost Involved didn't want the front of the frame to twist and shout.  Now the fun part begins, disassembly,...  Now the fun part begins, disassembly, destruction style. Cut away all the non-functional pieces, which will no longer be used.  Using a plasma cutter our...  Using a plasma cutter our technician slices through the old front crossmember like hot butter.  Cleaned and shaved, the front...  Cleaned and shaved, the front section of the frame is ready for the next step in the Mustang II suspension kit.  The first order of the install...  The first order of the install calls for the boxing plates to be installed, but first the frame needs a little trimming.  Here is a close-up shot of...  Here is a close-up shot of the trimmed frame. As you can see, the top and bottom rails are uniform and even, which is exactly what is needed in order to install the boxing plates.  Here, the plate is held to...  Here, the plate is held to the frame to see if the plate itself needs to be trimmed...  ...Oftentimes the plate needs...  ...Oftentimes the plate needs a little tweeking in order to ensure a proper fit. Once trimmed and level, the plate in can be welded in place.  Be carful not to let too much...  Be carful not to let too much heat build up in any one spot, weld a few inches at a time while switching between the left and right side, and top to bottom. Moving around with the welder will help ensure that neither frame warping nor bending takes place.  Once finished the welds are...  Once finished the welds are ground smooth.  Fitting the new Mustang II...  Fitting the new Mustang II crossmember and welding it in is where one wants to take the most time. Establishing the centerline of the new crossmember, to that of the old straight-axle, can take a bit of time, but it is vital to wheel alignment and position. The inside measurement between the framerails should be 29 inches. Any gaps can be shimmed, in order to achieve the desired distance. After all the measurements are taken the crossmember is tacked into place.  The spring mounts should also...  The spring mounts should also be centered over both the axle and crossmember centerline. The distance to the middle of the upper control arm adjustment slots should be about 32 3/4 inches. The spring mounts too can be trimmed, or shimmed, in order to get the measurement to where it needs to be.  With everything in place,...  With everything in place, the spring mounts are tack welded. After tack welding, all measurements, including diagonal measurements, are checked for accuracy. If everything is up to code then it is welded into place.  With the core of the install...  With the core of the install finished it's now time to install the suspension and steering components, which include: tubular A-arms, 2-inch drop spindles, a new power rack-and-pinion, 10-inch disc brakes, springs, and shocks.  The rack-and-pinion unit is...  The rack-and-pinion unit is the first component bolted onto the new Mustang II setup.  Next, the lower control arms...  Next, the lower control arms are installed. All the hardware comes in the Total Cost Involved kit, therefore there's no need to continually run to the auto parts store.  It goes without saying, but...  It goes without saying, but we'll say it anyway, the upper control arms are installed on both the right and left side next.  Adding some stability to the...  Adding some stability to the truck is this optional Total Cost Involved sway bar package. The sway bar and its bushings are installed behind the rack-and-pinion on the crossmember. For those of you not familiar with a Ford setup, attention all you Chevy guys out there, the Mustang II may seem a bit different at first, but it doesn't take long to see that this newer suspension will be a great benefit to the everyday driving of this old truck.  Lastly comes the springs,...  Lastly comes the springs, shocks, and GM-style 10-inch rotors. Total Cost Involved has several different upgrades available. From rotor size, to chromed control arms and springs, and even billet shocks. We chose to use all the base components. After all, this truck is made to be a driver, not a show truck. We also chose to stick with the 10-inch rotors, as opposed to the bigger rotors, because the truck will feature OE-style 15-inch wheels. Anything bigger belongs on a Compton cruising Escalade.  After all the welding is done,...  After all the welding is done, and the suspension is installed, here is what you end up with.  The last step was to rattle...  The last step was to rattle can the suspension black, in order to keep it rust free while the truck is finished. Now all that's left is to finish up the rest of the truck and hit the road in cruising comfort. | Sources | Total Cost Involved
(800) 984-6259
www.totalcostinvolved.com | |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
more
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|