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1971 Chevy C10 Auto Glass Installation - Project Get ShortyPart 13: Stop, Drop, And Chopped From the February, 2009 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Dakota Wentz Photography by Dakota Wentz
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For the past two months we've been in the process of lowering the lid on our '71 C10 Project Get Shorty. After 40 hours of work and three months worth of magazine issues, Shorty is officially chopped. Yep, this month will mark the ending of this stop on the truck's journey. Before we get into this installment's details, let's recap what has taken place over the past few months: For starters, the lid has been lowered 11/2 inches in the front and 1 inch in the rear. On top of that, the front A-pillars have been leaned back nearly an inch, and they have also been pinched ever so slightly in. Through all of this, the top was reverted from its uphill climb into a more aggressive and streamlined nosedive that brings a whole new look to the cab. We also ditched the two-piece GM window design for a Brothers one-piece window kit, and we installed Electric-Life power windows. Although it may sound like a lot of hours and work ... well, actually it is ... time seems to fly by when tackling a job of this magnitude, because honestly it's just fun. Not to mention, the end result is so worth the labor. For the last story, we're going to tackle the glasswork. When it comes to chopping a top, what scares many away is the glass aspect. For some reason, when it comes to glass it's almost taboo to even talk about it. Yet, the reality is that the glasswork-like the metalwork-is something that anyone can tackle at home. Although the process of dealing with tempered and non-tempered glass is slightly different, both can easily be handled in one's garage. Last month we had to make templates to get new side glass made, as tempered glass cannot be cut or ground down. This month we install our new side windows-made at The Glass House in San Dimas, California-and then handle the windshield. Because the top is lower than it used to be, the windshield will need to be shortened. This task is something that anyone can do at home-as opposed to shelling out some major dough to have someone do it for you. As always, we've got a lot to cover. Let's get to it.  When we left off last month...  When we left off last month we were getting side glass made up at The Glass House in San Dimas, California. The Glass House can cut just about any glass for any automobile required. They even stock a profound index of patterns for tons of cars and trucks on filing tables, like so.  In cases where a customer...  In cases where a customer needs a window that Mike has on file, he simply references the pattern number, places a sheet of appropriate glass on the pattern, and cuts it out.  For custom one-off jobs, one...  For custom one-off jobs, one needs to make a pattern and send it off to The Glass House. From there they can custom-cut a piece of glass and have it tempered for safety. Here you can see that Mike has cut this glass to match the side window pattern I sent him.  The '67-72 trucks weren't...  The '67-72 trucks weren't meant to have one-piece side windows. Therefore, in order to make the windows work, a triangular spacer needs to be installed (like late-model Chevy trucks) in the front lower corner of the doorframe. On Shorty I used a Brothers Trucks window kit. They provide their own spacer. However, considering that the top is altered on my truck, I needed to create a spacer to fit the profile of my window frame. Last month I made the template, and this month I am making the spacers needed. My first step is to trace the pattern to a 16-gauge piece of sheetmetal.  Using a cutoff wheel, I cut...  Using a cutoff wheel, I cut four pieces out.  Here is a side-by-side comparison...  Here is a side-by-side comparison of the Brothers spacer (left) and the new spacers (right). The Brothers pieces are meant to bolt into place-mine will be welded in.  Before I make things permanent,...  Before I make things permanent, I decided to double-check everything. I clamped my new spacers in place and installed the front guide. Then I taped up the window, to prevent scratches and what not, and installed it in place. Next, I rolled the window up and down a few times, via the new Electric-Life power-window setup, and made sure everything gelled. Sure enough, things were dead on. I was ready to make the next step.  In order to weld the spacers...  In order to weld the spacers in place, I used a three-step process. First, I placed the outer spacer in the desired position. I then welded it in via the backside of the plate to keep the outside appearance clean and smooth.  Next, the front guide was...  Next, the front guide was placed up against the spacer with the lip of the guide cradling the edge of the spacer. I then welded the guide to the backside of the spacer-once again, to keep things clean. From there, the inside spacer was welded to the inner doorframe.  Here's what the finished product,...  Here's what the finished product, with glass installed, looks like. As you can see, this setup is as clean as it gets.  Now comes the tricky part:...  Now comes the tricky part: the windshield. Because the lid is lowered, the stock windshield isn't going to fit. It will need to be cut down.  Normally these windows are...  Normally these windows are sealed in with giant-sized rubber gaskets. For my truck, I'm going to ditch the old-school method of installing the windshield with gaskets by gluing the windshield in place-once again like a late-model truck. Another aspect to the gasket is that it took up nearly three quarters of an inch of real estate around the perimeter of the windshield frame. If the top was stock and I planned to glue the glass in, this would create a problem-because I would have to make up for the gap. But seeing that I lowered the lid and laid the A-posts back and slightly in, the stock window fits in the window frame just about perfect. Because of that, the window won't need to be cut down as much, as I have that extra area to play with. Here you can see that in order for the windshield to fit into place all that needs to be trimmed is 11/8 inches from the top of the glass.  Once the measurement was decided,...  Once the measurement was decided, I marked the window from side to side.  I then used masking tape to...  I then used masking tape to connect the dots, so to speak.  Here's the windshield all...  Here's the windshield all laid out. Everything above the tape needs to be removed in order for the glass to fit the cab.  When it comes to cutting a...  When it comes to cutting a windshield, there are several methods to handle the job. Although, more often than not, guys send out their windshields to get them cut by a pro. Well, if you haven't figured out by now, I try to do everything on my own terms. For that reason, I decided to tackle cutting my windshield by using one of the several methods available: grinding it down. In order to grind down a windshield, a few items are needed: a variable speed buffer/sander, 24-grit sanding discs, a hose, and an ever-so-important volunteer. Oh, I almost forgot: The last thing needed is a sixer of beer, which is to be given to the volunteer for the hours of abuse they are about to endure. Oh yeah, if you're worried about breaking the windshield, I'm not gonna lie, there's always a possibility. But remember this: Even when you take your glass to a pro and they break it during the process, which isn't that uncommon, it's still on you to pony up the dough for a new one. Just words for thought.  When it comes to grinding...  When it comes to grinding down a windshield, there are only two things to live by: patience ... and more patience. It's not a quick, easy process. It's long, drawn-out, and mundane. Here it is: For starters, you need someone to run water over the exact area you're grinding. The water keeps the glass cool, which prevents it from heating up and cracking...  ...A variable speed grinder...  ...A variable speed grinder is then outfitted with 24-grit discs and is set around 2,000-2,300 rpm. (This slow speed will take a little longer than cutting at high speeds, but the low rpms will keep the heat down. If you can't tell, heat is the enemy.) Then it's time to grind. When grinding, keep the grinder moving at all times in 1-inch north and south passes the length of the glass. This, too, will help distribute the heat and keep things cool. Also, let the machine do the work, don't press down on the glass to speed up the cutting action. Remember: patience, Daniel-san!  Here you can see that we are...  Here you can see that we are starting to make some progress.  By now, some of you are thinking...  By now, some of you are thinking that when grinding the windshield down you would expect chunks of glass to come flying off. It's actually the contrary. For the most part, the glass cuts away just like metal, in miniscule grains. However, you will occasionally have a slightly bigger flake of glass come off, but they, too, are tiny and harmless in size. Here's a close-up of some glass runoff.  Here's another crucial thing...  Here's another crucial thing to keep in mind: The 24-grit discs are pretty much good for one to two full passes across the windshield. After that, they get dull and don't cut nearly as good (when you change discs you'll see the difference immediately). When they get dull, a couple of things happen: First, it takes so much more effort to cut the glass that you run the risk of the glass heating up and breaking. Second, the dullness of the disc doesn't cut the glass nice and clean-it begins to kind of chip away at the glass (as shown in the picture), which can also crack the windshield. Therefore, eat the $2 it takes to pick up a disc and toss the old disc as soon as it begins to dull. A few dollars here and there is a whole lot less than buying a new windshield to replace a cracked one.  After 13 discs and three hours...  After 13 discs and three hours of straight grinding, the windshield was ground down and popped in place.  Finally things are done! For...  Finally things are done! For now, at least. Dig this side-profile juxtaposition between the stock cab and the chopped cab...  ...Notice how the stock cab...  ...Notice how the stock cab ran uphill, as opposed to the aggressive lean of the chopped cab.  A few more shots...  ...of the aftermath.
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