1971 Chevy C10 Auto Glass Installation - Project Get Shorty

Before I make things permanent, I decided to double-check everything. I clamped my new spacers in place and installed the front guide. Then I taped up the window, to prevent scratches and what not, and installed it in place. Next, I rolled the window up and down a few times, via the new Electric-Life power-window setup, and made sure everything gelled. Sure enough, things were dead on. I was ready to make the next step.

In order to weld the spacers in place, I used a three-step process. First, I placed the outer spacer in the desired position. I then welded it in via the backside of the plate to keep the outside appearance clean and smooth.

Next, the front guide was placed up against the spacer with the lip of the guide cradling the edge of the spacer. I then welded the guide to the backside of the spacer-once again, to keep things clean. From there, the inside spacer was welded to the inner doorframe.

Here's what the finished product, with glass installed, looks like. As you can see, this setup is as clean as it gets.

Now comes the tricky part: the windshield. Because the lid is lowered, the stock windshield isn't going to fit. It will need to be cut down.

Normally these windows are sealed in with giant-sized rubber gaskets. For my truck, I'm going to ditch the old-school method of installing the windshield with gaskets by gluing the windshield in place-once again like a late-model truck. Another aspect to the gasket is that it took up nearly three quarters of an inch of real estate around the perimeter of the windshield frame. If the top was stock and I planned to glue the glass in, this would create a problem-because I would have to make up for the gap. But seeing that I lowered the lid and laid the A-posts back and slightly in, the stock window fits in the window frame just about perfect. Because of that, the window won't need to be cut down as much, as I have that extra area to play with. Here you can see that in order for the windshield to fit into place all that needs to be trimmed is 11/8 inches from the top of the glass.

Once the measurement was decided, I marked the window from side to side.

I then used masking tape to connect the dots, so to speak.

Here's the windshield all laid out. Everything above the tape needs to be removed in order for the glass to fit the cab.

When it comes to cutting a windshield, there are several methods to handle the job. Although, more often than not, guys send out their windshields to get them cut by a pro. Well, if you haven't figured out by now, I try to do everything on my own terms. For that reason, I decided to tackle cutting my windshield by using one of the several methods available: grinding it down. In order to grind down a windshield, a few items are needed: a variable speed buffer/sander, 24-grit sanding discs, a hose, and an ever-so-important volunteer. Oh, I almost forgot: The last thing needed is a sixer of beer, which is to be given to the volunteer for the hours of abuse they are about to endure. Oh yeah, if you're worried about breaking the windshield, I'm not gonna lie, there's always a possibility. But remember this: Even when you take your glass to a pro and they break it during the process, which isn't that uncommon, it's still on you to pony up the dough for a new one. Just words for thought.

When it comes to grinding down a windshield, there are only two things to live by: patience ... and more patience. It's not a quick, easy process. It's long, drawn-out, and mundane. Here it is: For starters, you need someone to run water over the exact area you're grinding. The water keeps the glass cool, which prevents it from heating up and cracking...

...A variable speed grinder is then outfitted with 24-grit discs and is set around 2,000-2,300 rpm. (This slow speed will take a little longer than cutting at high speeds, but the low rpms will keep the heat down. If you can't tell, heat is the enemy.) Then it's time to grind. When grinding, keep the grinder moving at all times in 1-inch north and south passes the length of the glass. This, too, will help distribute the heat and keep things cool. Also, let the machine do the work, don't press down on the glass to speed up the cutting action. Remember: patience, Daniel-san!