1971 Chevy Truck - Project Get Shorty

In order to fix the problem, I trasnferred the bottom edge length measurement of the Brothrs wege to a sheet of paper then followed my doorframe to get the rest of hte measurements. Once finished, I taped my paper template in place and then inserted the front guide channel, the original spreader bar, into the door. The channel runs along the edge of the corner wedge down into the door.

Originally, I thought I would be able to use the Brothers glass in the door. I figured the window would roll into place--even though it technically didn't roll up all the way--but, because I got rid of the uphill slant in the roof, the glass didn't exactly gel with my top. therefore, I needed to make a template of what the new glass needed to be cut to. I started by making an exact cardboard duplicate of the Brothers glass.

I then placed my template in the window frame. When i talked about not fitting, this is what I meant. At the bottom edge there was a gap of nearly 1/2 inch. I also had this gap at the rear upper corner. The reason for this gap is the high point of the window, right at the upper front corner.

My first trim of the template was to measure 1/2 inch down from the high point. I then ran a line to the trailing edge of the rear corner. Next, a cut was made along that line using a straight edge and a razor blade.

Once cut, I placed the template in the frame and things were much closer--although a few slight trimmings were necessary. Once everything was altered, this is how things looked.

Before I called it a day and went ahead and had new windows made, I double-checked to make sure everything was going to work. First, I installed the Brothers window moldings into the door channels.

Instead of opting for the old manual windows. I decided to install new power windows from Electric-Life. The 67'72 electric window kit from Electric-Life is a direct bolt-in replacement that is hassle free. Seriously, it's no different to install than a stock manual regulator is to insert it in the door and bolt it to the existing regulator holes. Be sure to insert the power wire, though. Once installed, I also placed the altered window sash on the regulator guides.

Electric-Life has various switch options. i chose these billet aluminum--style switches with LED indicators. Before testing the windows, I needed to wire the switches using the instructions.

With things wired up, I placed the template into the sash, hooked up a 12-volt source to the window motor and tested the window sure enough things were dead on. This meant I was headed up to The Glass house in San Dimas, California, to get a set of windows made of my templates. The Glass House can handle an assortment of custom window jobs, provided you give them a quality template.

Because the doors in my truck were as basic as it gets, there was no need to run electrical wires into the door. Well, now there is. That means I needed some sort of wire loom to handle the job. Electric-Life was once again called into action. they make these billet stainless braided looms that are universal for anything. All it takes to install them is a 3/4-inch hole saw and Allen wrench-- and they look rad, too.

As for the Electric-Life switches they can be mounted anywhere--like on the bottom lip of the dash. We're done for now. Check back next month and we'll finish things up. I promise.