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1953 Chevy Truck Ron Francis Wiring Kit Upgrade - Wired ScienceBring Your Ride Into The 21st Century From the February, 2009 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Dakota Wentz Photography by Calin Head
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With today's demand to have fuel-injected motors, electric fans, A/C, and creature comforts nestled into our trucks, a few issues need to be taken into account. One is the mechanics, obvious gimmes. Two is something equally as important, yet often seems to be more of an afterthought: the electrical system. The trucks of yesteryear weren't equipped with adequate electrical systems to power modern-day features. Instead they were equipped to power just the ABC's to get them down the road. For that reason, adding several modern comforts to an old factory wiring harness is dangerous, as those harnesses weren't designed to take on that kind of workload. Also, most harnesses have seen better days, which can make them a danger to themselves without the extra workload. Go back to 50-year-old trucks, like Advance Design Chevys, and things get even worse. They're still rockin' 6-volt systems, which aren't even an option in today's market. That said, the only option is to upgrade the electrical system. Just like you would upgrade a suspension, motor, trans, etc., special attention is required when installing a new aftermarket wiring harness capable of handling all your needs and wants. Luckily for the classic truck industry there are companies out there, such as Ron Francis Wiring, that have made this swap easy. Since 1974 Ron Francis has designed aftermarket kits that suit the vintage marketplace and go right in with no hassle. They make year-specific kits for many vehicles. They also have kits, like their Express Wiring Kit, that will wire just about anything GM, Ford, or Mopar. Seeing as how we were in the market to wire a '53 Chevy truck, we decided to get some info on the GM Express Kit from Ron Francis Wiring. This is what they had to say: "Our newest custom wiring system, the Express Wiring Kit, is built specifically for your vehicle with all the connectors and wiring necessary to drive it, pass inspection, and be able to add accessories as you see fit-now and in the future. The Express is a direct replacement system that features everything to wire a complete truck-including starter, alternator, GM, ididit, Flaming River, and other brands of steering columns. It will also wire gauge sets that include a tach, HEI, points, aftermarket distributors, neutral safety switches, high and low beams, indicator lights, parking lights, turn signals, and brake/third-brake lights. The panel also readily accepts fuel injection, and we have included the cooling fan relay and wiring, due to the fact that more and more customers are using electric fans. The system also has a multi-connection battery junction block, which has 16 fuses, four Select-A-Fuses, and 18 circuits for complete flexibility in building it your way. Along with all that, the Express Kit uses high-temperature, fire resistant, color-coded wire with the circuit clearly printed. Topping it all off are color-coded instructions and a unique serial number for each kit that enables us to technically support the installation to the original buyer, or any subsequent owner." With that description, we were sold. We ordered up a kit and headed over to follow along with Sam Head as he wired up his '53 Chevy pickup.  Making the task at hand easy...  Making the task at hand easy is the user-friendly Ron Francis Express Kit. With this kit the entire truck can be wired.  when ordering a kit from Ron...  when ordering a kit from Ron Francis, one area to look into is what components you plan on running. For example, the steering column, alternator, electric cooling fan, and A/C need to be decided on. This is so that the proper connectors will be packed with the kit.  Here you can see how the panel...  Here you can see how the panel is fitted with all the fuses and relays needed. These are individually marked to make the install easy.  Sam looked for a location...  Sam looked for a location to mount the panel, keeping in mind that holes will be needed in order for wires to exit out of the cab. For this truck, he found that the best place to mount the panel is on the dash brace that runs above the steering column. This way he could wire the truck nice and easy-- and later on if Sam lay on his back and looked up everything would be in sight. Not to mention, he had a few factory holes nearby in the firewall that are perfect for running wires.  An ideal time to wire is when...  An ideal time to wire is when the truck is fresh from the paint booth--nothing is installed, which makes the job simpler.  Another good idea is to head...  Another good idea is to head down and pick up an assortment of necessary sundries, such as Adel clamps, spiral looms, split looms, grommets, and stick-on zip-tie holders.  These items can be picked...  These items can be picked up at any electric supply house.  when it comes to wiring the...  when it comes to wiring the truck, one can start anywhere desired. Sam began with the column. Using the correct plug for Sam's Chevy van column, which was sent with the kit by verifying what column is going to be used when ordering, Sam wired the harness to the plug. Making this step easy is a converter chart in the Ron Francis instructions (shown in the background).  Next, the alternator was wired....  Next, the alternator was wired. Because Sam did his research on the Ron Francis Web site, he ordered the right stuff--so things like the alternator plugged right in.  For the alternator wires,...  For the alternator wires, he decided to run them along the valve cover using a spiral loom and two clamps to protect and hold the wires in place. The large red wire needed a terminal installed.  Another tip: When passing...  Another tip: When passing wires through the firewall pass them with the help of an assistant. It will prevent you from scoring or damaging the wires.  Sam decided to order one of...  Sam decided to order one of Ron's new-and-improved headlight switches for this project, because the stock unit from the '50s wasn't going to cut it. The headlight kit comes with the proper plug already wired up so it just pushes right on.  However, you do have to push...  However, you do have to push a little detent button to remove the handle/plunger. It's a good idea to figure out what ires need to exit the cab, what wires stay inside--and then separate them. Once again, Ron Francis has made the kit clean and easy by labeling each wire in the kit, instead of using hte guess and check method.  Along with a new headlight...  Along with a new headlight switch, a new 1-inch ignition switch was also ordered from Ron Francis.  When installing the switch,...  When installing the switch, the ends are already crimped, so all we had to do was install them into the plug housing per the instructions and attach the switch to the dash.  Another area of interest was...  Another area of interest was the neutral safety switch, which the kit comes prepared to handle. In Sam's cse, the pencil points to the neutral safety side of the switch, the other two prongs are for reverse lights he won't need for this truck. The Ron Francis terminals were preinstalled, so he just slid them into the plastic plug housing and attached them to the switch. Because these wires will go to the panel, they were cut down a bit and readied for install.  Even all the planning in the...  Even all the planning in the world can sometimes lead astray. For instance, the thought of a new dimmer switch was completely lost when we ordered the kit from Ron, which meant a trip to the local AutoZone. After we got back, all that was left to do was plug the switch in and run the wires up to the panel.  At this point, wires needed...  At this point, wires needed to be run to each corner of the truck for headlights, turn signals, taillights, and to the other vitals on the truck. Although all are different components, it's pretty much the same story, different chapter. By running the labeled wire to the proper component and plugging it into the fuse panel, the job is handled. Another good thing about the Express Kit is it allows for creature comforts--such as power windows, door locks, alarms, etc.--that will come in handy later on in the build. As a side note: When wiring all these components, Sam likes to run wires in the reverse order--meaning from each point of focus to the fuse panel, instead of vice versa. However, either method is OK; it's just a matter of preference. Tips 'n' Tricks When wiring your truck, there are a few areas you're going to run across. Here's a quick survival guide on how to handle a few basics in wiring that you're bound to run into. It's best to have the proper tools to get the job done. As that isn't always the case, it's good to have alternative means, as you'll see below. Crimping a non-insulated ring terminal:  A. Slip on a rubber sleev...  A. Slip on a rubber sleeve.  B. Strip off a small amount...  B. Strip off a small amount of insulation.  C. slip on terminal and crimp...  C. slip on terminal and crimp with the non-insulated side of the pliers, then slide the sleeve over the crimp. Crimping an insulated terminal:  1. Strip off a small amount...  1. Strip off a small amount of insulation.  Crimp with the insulated side...  Crimp with the insulated side of the pliers, but make sure not to squeeze the pliers so hard that you puncture the insulation on the terminal. Crimping a Twin Lock withouth the proper pliers (when ina jam, improvise):  1. Strip Insulation to desired...  1. Strip Insulation to desired amount.  2. Pre-bend the four tangs...  2. Pre-bend the four tangs of the terminal with small needle-nose pliers.  3. Use a small screwdriver...  3. Use a small screwdriver to bend the tangs the rest of the way, a few light taps with a hammer on the end of the screwdriver will help.  4. Once bent, use the normal...  4. Once bent, use the normal crimpers to finish the job.  Last, snap the newly crimped...  Last, snap the newly crimped terminal into the plastic housing. Examples of good and bad Twin lock crimps:  1. Good: just the right amount...  1. Good: just the right amount of wire proportions. 2 Bad: not all wires are crimped in place. 3. bad: wireplaced in terminal too deep. 4. Bad: wire is in too shallow.  Here's an example of how Sam...  Here's an example of how Sam routed wires using the proper-sized rubber grommets (green arrow) in firewall openings, and how the stick-on zip-tie holders (blue arrows) make for a nice install.
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The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
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