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1971 Chevy Truck Roof Lowering ProjectPart 11: Stop, Drop, And Chop From the July, 2008 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Dakota Wentz Photography by Dakota Wentz
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It didn't take the customizers of old to realize one of the most effective ways to enhance and alter the look of a vehicle was to chop the top. By lowering the lid, they could not only change the silhouette of a vehicle, but they could also change its persona/style/overall charisma as well. Because of the payback one gets from chopping a top, this method and technique has been a must-do on many hot rodders' projects. When I first set out to build Project Get Shorty, I had a plethora of ideas in my head about what to do-one of them being to chop the top. Although I was up in the air about the whole thing, not because of the looks, but because of all the work involved, I quickly changed my mind a few months back. When I got finished shaving the driprail on the cab, I took one look at the '71 and immediately decided I needed to do justice to the rest of the cab by lowering the lid. Well, if "the time is now," the question of to chop or not to chop has been answered, and she will be chopped ... oh yes, she will be chopped. Because I personally don't like '67-72 Chevys with an extreme chop, I decided to only take a nominal amount out of the top. However, when it comes to these trucks, it only takes a small amount to drastically change the look. Due to the amount of steps involved in this process, the only way to give the story justice is to spread it over two months. This month we'll go over the actual chop and method involved. Next month we'll finish up the little things and concentrate on installing new glass in the cab, which we got from Brothers Trucks and Electric-Life. By the way, like many things, the idea of chopping a top is more intimidating than anything-after all, you are hacking the roof off your ride. However, with careful planning, attention to detail, and patience, the job can be tackled in a straightforward manner. Enough babble, it's time to get to work.  Besides the fact that I wanted...  Besides the fact that I wanted the top chopped on my truck, another reason was the side profile. Because GM made that wing vent window so high, they had to design the roof to run "up hill." Look between the two red arrows and you'll notice that as the top moves towards the windshield it progressively gains altitude -- no big no-no in my eyes. So, besides chopping the top, I'll also correct this flaw in the process.  Before I even begin to think...  Before I even begin to think about taking a Sawzall to the truck, the first order of business is to structurally secure the body. When cutting the top off any vehicle, the integrity of the body is altered. If things aren't braced properly it will bend and twist like a Radio Flyer with a fat kid in it. Therefore, I braced the cab with 3/4-inch tubing by welding an "X" through the cab, as well as two supports from the front doorjamb to the rear floor.  Next, I went around the cab...  Next, I went around the cab and made a series of measurements, e.g. window opening distance, top-to-doorframe height, rear window opening height, and more. Basically, I made these for reference points.  The first things to get whacked...  The first things to get whacked are the window frames. First, I cut the rear of the frame in half. When making any cut on a top be sure to run a piece of masking tape, cardboard, duct tape, or something of the sort around hte post to ensure a clean and straight cut.  I then cut the frame at the...  I then cut the frame at the front peak. Side note: I find it easier to begin my cuts with a hacksaw, that way I have a "guide" to place my Sawzall blade in for a clean cut.  Next, it was time to begin...  Next, it was time to begin laying out the chop. I wanted to keep the bottom of hte rear window opening at the same height, therefore I decided to take the chop out of the lower B-pillar and leave the window opening alone. To do this, I measured 2 3/4-inch down from the bottom of the opening and laid a piece of horizontal masking tape around the B-pillar and through the doorjamb evenly. A level helped out in that step. Once finished, I transferred my layout to the other side.  Because I decided to take...  Because I decided to take my chop from that portion of the B-pillar, I then had to go inside and remove the inner part of the B-pillar. This meant that once the outside skin was cut, the top could be removed. Besides making my rear chop easy, this opening will also allow me to get to the weld area easily with a hammer and dolly.  Laying out the front is much...  Laying out the front is much easier. I decided to cut 3/4 inch out of the A-pillars first, and then go from there. This masking tape is 3/4 inch wide; by simply wrapping it around the A-pillar I had my marks. Be sure to transfer the placement height of the tape to the other pillar exactly. Once I quadruple checked everything (as they say: measure twice, cut once), I whacked out my 3/4-inch section from the A-pillar. Side note; I took the material near the top of the A-pillar, so when it came time to pull the pillar back things would be much easier-- as we'll see it later.  Chance used a cut-off wheel,...  Chance used a cut-off wheel, for more accurac, to cut along the top of the masking tape around the B-pillar...  ...Next, a cut was made from...  ...Next, a cut was made from the masking tape up to the bottom of the window opening.  We have lift off. Once cut,...  We have lift off. Once cut, go back and measure the cab to make sure nothing has shifted.  There's nothing like, the...  There's nothing like, the feeling of looking at your truck-turned-roadster. If you don't feel alive now, you must be dead.  To get a visual, my brother...  To get a visual, my brother and I put the top back on the truck and scoped things out. At this point 3/4 inch has been taken from the A-pillar while the B-pillar has been left the same height. It was clear at this point that all we had done was corrected the uphill top, but we got a visual of how far we needed to bring things down.  From the A-pillars we decided...  From the A-pillars we decided to take off another 3/4 inch by masking off the top of the A-pillar again. At this point we've removed a grand total of a 1 1/2 inches from the A-pillars.  Next, we took an inch from...  Next, we took an inch from the B-pillar by running 1-inch masking tape around the bottom of hte top piece of cut cab-- and once again cut along the tp with a cut-off wheel. ONce cut, we put the top back on, clamped it in place with Vise-Grips, and measured to make sure the rear was lining up evenly and wasn't tilting to one side.  When chopping any top, you're...  When chopping any top, you're removing area between the posts, which means once you place the top piece back on things aren't going to line up. If you chop the top several inches, many times you have to split the roof and add a filler piece. In this case I've only taken 1 1/2 inches from the A-pillar, so I can just lean the post back to match the top.  When leaning the post back...  When leaning the post back there are several methods, one being to heat the post with a torch and pull back, and the other being to make a relief cut and pull back. We decided to make a relief cut, therefore Chance made a 1/4-inch relief cut at the bottom fo the post. Be sure to go past the point of strength so the post lies back clean, without any buckling.  With my pie cuts cut, I double-checked...  With my pie cuts cut, I double-checked to make sure all of my post stubs were the same length. With everything looking good, I then placed the top back on the cab.  With the top back on, simply...  With the top back on, simply pull back on the post until they line up with the top of the cab. ONce in position, clamp the post in place with a set of Vise-Grips.  To get a clear view of how...  To get a clear view of how the top was hsaping up, we needed to pull the front of the window frame back. To do this, simply make a relief cut at the bottom of hte frame, hack of 1 1/2 inches froom the top of the frame, and pull it back to match the contour of the A-pillar.  Here's a direct shot of how...  Here's a direct shot of how much the driver-side A-pillar has been pulled back. As you can see, the passenger-side post is still standing straight up in its original position. Not only does the chop affect the look of the truck, but by pulling the post back it to gives the cab a more streamlined look.  With bot posts pulled back,...  With bot posts pulled back, we went around the truck making a series of measurements in order to make sure the truck cab was squared up all around.  With everything good to go,...  With everything good to go, I then tacked the front post in place.  In order to split the pillar,...  In order to split the pillar, a line was drawn nearly 1 1/2 inches back from the jabm. from there, Chance made a relief cut from the bottom of the jamb to nearly the top of the jamb. An identical cut was also made on the inside of the cab.  Here you can see how the front...  Here you can see how the front of the B-pillar has been pulled forward to match the doorjamb. The gap created by pulling hte pillar apart will be solved by welding in a small pie-cut filler piece.  Here's how things are shaping...  Here's how things are shaping up so far. As you can tell, the look of the top is much different... and all for the better.  Next month we'll finish things...  Next month we'll finish things up and install new one-piece windows and a windshield from Brothers Trucks. We'll also install electric window regulators and motors from Electric-Life to complement the new side glass.
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The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
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