The upper part of the driprail also tends to come apart. But this time, instead of tapping things back together, Chance gently pinched the pieces of metal together with a set of pliers, while I proceeded to tack and weld things back together just like before. By the way, when using the pliers, stay on the forward edge of the metal. If you clamp down from top to bottom, the heat of the weld may create a plier-tooth-shaped dip in the top cab skin. | 
I stopped cutting the driprail off at the top front corner of the door. At this point the driprail rounding the windshield needs to have all the filler and paint removed before things can go further. For this, I simply heated the area and cleaned it with a wire brush. | 
Here's where a choice has to be made. Removing the front of the driprail can be carried out the same way as before (by cutting the rail, grinding it down, and welding it up), or one can take the route I took. I choose to lay the roof forward more than an inch. |
Here's how I did it: First, I took a Sawzall and cut vertically down the driprail right through each one of the spot welds holding the layers of sheetmetal together. | 
Next, the roof skin was peeled back by removing the spot welds with an air hammer. | 
I then placed the blade of the Sawzall just below what was left of the protruding driprail and cut from corner to corner. |
At this point, the only metal left up front is the roof skin and the windshield framing just above the glass. In order to bring the roof skin forward, I then used a cut-off wheel to trim the windshield framing down to where only 1⁄2 inch was left above the windshield rubber. | 
From there, I used a screwdriver and hammer to slowly bend the windshield framing back until I got my desired slant. | 
My next step was to grab my Eastwood hammer and dolly and straighten out the roof. |