The fastest and most effective way to get the "stock stink" off a '73-87 square-body late C10, or Big 10 is to give it an old-school drop. By old school we mean a lowered traditional stance, not with every nut and bolt dragging on the ground and having to come almost to a complete stop for little bumps, but rather a modification that will enhance ride quality. Of course, back in the day when trucks and cars were dropped into the weeds it wasn't anything to do with practicality, it was all about the "look"-and whatever it took to get the vehicle slammed was okay. Usually, the first place a person would head off to with their new ride was to the local muffler shop to get a new set of duals and their springs heated. When it came to determining how low was low enough, a good rule of thumb was a cigarette pack should just be able to pass through the ground and the fram- erails. The oxymoron "heating the springs properly" meant the moron holding the oxyacetylene torch had to know exactly when to stop blasting with the torch, or after a few days the vehicle would continue to settle until the framerails were on the ground. This sagging condition was caused by the springs losing their temper, hence the ability to suspend the vehicle.
For those who were just a little smarter, the proper way to lower a vehicle right was to slap in a set of lowering blocks and cut the front coil springs. The guys who took this route were able to get the look they wanted and still be able to drive. However, the downside, more times than not, was sacrificing ride quality. Not to get off on a tangent, but legend has it the bobblehead doll was invented by a lowrider in search of a measuring device to detect just how bumpy his ride was. A bumpy ride was the downside, but, as the clich goes, every dark cloud has a silver lining. The silver lining: by lowering a vehicle the center of gravity drops-and the ability to go around a corner faster increases. We don't have to tell you guys what that means, because anyone who enjoys driving knows that faster means more fun.
Since we're a playful bunch, we thought it would be fun to do a basic old-school slam on our '75 Chevy Big 10. Not much has changed since back in the day, except that the aftermarket has made leaps and bounds designing lowering kits that are engineered to provide the cool lowered look-while maintaining ride quality, safety, and dependability. In the case of our'75 Chevy C10 Big 10 subject vehicle, we found that once we tore into it there was a lot of brake and suspension parts that needed to be replaced. This is typical of an older truck with a lot of miles on it. In an upcoming issue we'll address some of the problems at hand with the '75 and drop the rear 4 inches with McGaughy's shackle kit. In the meantime, here's a quick look at what has to be done to lower the front end 4-inches.

The very first step to any...

The very first step to any procedure is to read the manufacturer's directions.

McGaughy's 4-inch drop-kit...

McGaughy's 4-inch drop-kit consists of their in-house manufactured Classic Drop spindles with 4010 chromemoly spuds, and beautifully powdercoated coil springs.

Don't even think about working...

Don't even think about working on your truck, let alone climbing under it, until it's on jackstands and you've given it the shake test to ensure that it will not budge.

Next, we buzzed the wheels...

Next, we buzzed the wheels off with an impact wrench and set them aside.

There are two different spindles...

There are two different spindles available from McGaughy's to fit the '73-87 Chevy C10 range.

The standard C10 uses a brake...

The standard C10 uses a brake rotor that is 1 inch thick (wide), and the Big 10 or Heavy Chevy (F44 suspension package) uses a brake rotor that is 1 inches thick. We used a tape measure to confirm we had a 1-inch thick rotor.

Chevy C10s are famous for...

Chevy C10s are famous for tearing out the top shock absorber mount on the framerail. It was important to inspect ours before going any further.

Next, we soaked all of the...

Next, we soaked all of the nuts that had to be removed with a penetrating spray to ensure they would remove easily.

A cotter-pin tool from Craftsman...

A cotter-pin tool from Craftsman was used to pull the cotter pins.

With all of the nuts removed...

With all of the nuts removed from the ball joints and tie-rod ends we used a 3-pound sledgehammer to jar (a good whack!) the ball joints and tie-rod ends loose.

The sledgehammer was also...

The sledgehammer was also used to gently tap on other areas of the ball joints and tie-rod ends to knock them loose (free).

With patience, the tie-rod...

With patience, the tie-rod ends and ball joints were separated without harming them.

Before removing the brake...

Before removing the brake rotors, it was necessary to remove the brake calipers using an Allen wrench to loosen the two mounting bolts on the brake caliper.

A gentle tap with the hammer,...

A gentle tap with the hammer, and the brake caliper fell away from its mounting position on the stock C10 spindle.

To protect the brake flex-hose...

To protect the brake flex-hose from damage, the brake caliper was drawn away out of the immediate working area and suspended with bailing wire tying (holding) it to the frame.

To remove the brake rotors,...

To remove the brake rotors, we knocked the grease cap (also called a grease, or hub-cap) off and then removed the cotter pin.

In stubborn cases, a pair...

In stubborn cases, a pair of dikes works best to remove a cotter pin. A good firm tug upwards did the trick.

With brake rotor removed from...

With brake rotor removed from the stock spindle, the next step was to remove the three bolts retaining the backing-plate (dust shield) from the stock spindle.

This gave us a clear shot...

This gave us a clear shot with the sledgehammer to briskly whack the side of the stock spindle until the top ball joint broke loose.

The hammer didn't work to...

The hammer didn't work to separate the bottom ball joint in this case, so we used a pickle-fork (known as a ball joint separator to squares).

To remove the stock coil spring,...

To remove the stock coil spring, we disconnected the front sway bar from the lower control arms, then shoved the lower control arm downwards as far as it would travel, and then pulled it out of the upper spring pocket on the frame.

To install the new McGaughy's...

To install the new McGaughy's 2-inch drop coil spring in the same way as above, we shoved the lower control arm downwards and installed the new McGaughy's coil spring.

To ensure it was properly...

To ensure it was properly installed, we checked to make sure that it went completely into the upper spring pocket on the frame.

Next, we positioned the new...

Next, we positioned the new McGaughy's Classic Drop spindles in place on the upper and lower ball joints, then tightened down the nuts, and then installed the cotter pins.

For the cotter pins on the...

For the cotter pins on the spindle, we used the fattest pin that would pass through the horizontal hole on the spindle.

Then we used a torque-wrench...

Then we used a torque-wrench to torque down the spindle nut to 11 pounds and aligned the cotter pin by backing the nut (counter-clockwise) off to the nearest hole. Do not over-tighten the wheel bearings.

Here's the right way to pin...

Here's the right way to pin the cotter key down. Spreading the ends is the wrong way.