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Autoloc Shaved Door Kit - Shave And A HaircutDeaccessorizing With Autoloc From the February, 2009 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Dakota Wentz
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There comes a point in every build when one must ask, "To shave, or not to shave, that is the question." Although not exactly a life-altering fork in the road, it is a decision that will define your ride's look and feel. On the one hand are clean, smooth, and sleek; and on the other, well, things will keep more along the lines of a resto-mod. For those of you who travel the same path as Roger Rabbit and can't resist a shave and a haircut, then pay attention as we deaccessorize a C-10. As for all you others, maybe this will sway your opinion. Shaving the handles on any truck is one of the most basic and simple modifications one can do. But even though it's simple, the visual effects are anything but. In years before, hot rodders took solenoids from anything and everything and mounted them up with an external hidden button. As time has moved on and technology is king, shaved door handles have become as simple as keyless entry, and at the forefront of the technology is AutoLoc. Although AutoLoc serves up the industry with countless numbers of automotive accessories, shaved door handle kits have become a staple of AutoLoc. With a handful of shaved door handle kits and just as many kit accessories, AutoLoc has covered just about every angle there is to shaving handles. In various kits, including the kit we're going to install, AutoLoc bases the system off of one of their 50-pound Power Pull solenoids that feature a compact design and durable steel construction. Each solenoid features 2x retention springs that adjust the pulling power to the precise level required for each pull, resulting in less wear and tear on your latches and installation assembly. The solenoids are also self-grounding for easy installation. From there, each kit includes long-range remotes and a computerized receiver with a range of over 300 feet. In a world where car thieves are so advanced that "code grabbing" (which is when car thieves wait for you to disable your car alarm so they can duplicate the alarm code and use it to gain access to your ride) is common practice, AutoLoc has even developed a way to make sure their remote system doesn't fall victim to an ill-fated incident by equipping each kit with their Code Rolling Technology, which ensures your truck's safety by changing codes on the receiver after each transmission. That way the previous transmission cannot be bounced back to your truck to open doors, deactivate alarms, and more. Furthermore, to ensure maximum protection, AutoLoc's Code Rolling Technology also allows you to delete lost or stolen codes. Along with controlling the driver and passenger door, AutoLoc also offers multi-channel systems for power windows, trunks, start functions-really, whatever you want to hook up, and they're all controlled with the same remote. Each kit also includes three heavy-duty 40-amp relays, 1/16-inch pre-stretched stainless steel cable, wiring, all mounting hardware, cable guide, aluminum crimps, heavy-duty backup button, and detailed instructions. As you can see, the art of shaving door handles has left its roots in the past. Besides installing the system's internals, the other part to shaving handles is filling holes and basic bodywork, which is just another day at the office. Check it out as we install one of AutoLoc's universal shaved door handle kits.  A wireless shaved door handle...  A wireless shaved door handle kit la AutoLoc. Here is the eight-channel system with 50-pound solenoids.  Before the AutoLoc products...  Before the AutoLoc products can be installed, the door panels need to be removed. The first step is to remove the door handle clips that hold the handle to the inner workings.  Here is the C-clip that holds...  Here is the C-clip that holds the window and door handles to the door panels. Using a screwdriver, they can be pushed off their perch on the handle's backside.  The window crank can be left...  The window crank can be left alone; however, the door handle crank internals need to be removed.  The handle is connected to...  The handle is connected to the door latch via a metal rod; therefore, the entire assembly needs to be removed. To remove the door latch, you must remove the three screws that hold the latch to the door. Before I removed the screws, I hit them with a hammer and a screwdriver to shake off almost 40 years of being seized up; that way the screws won't strip.  I could then remove the latch/handle...  I could then remove the latch/handle setup.  On the inside of the doorskin...  On the inside of the doorskin are two nuts that hold the handle to the door. Remove them and the handle is free. The key lock just pushes out.  The rear window runner needs...  The rear window runner needs to be removed as well.  Because the handles are going...  Because the handles are going to be shaved, there is no need for door locks anymore. To remove the lock, the first step is to ditch the lock rod.  This is the door lock lever...  This is the door lock lever on the door latch assembly. The only way to make sure the door never locks and your hand doesn't have to find its way through a window is to remove the lock lever.  The lever is held on by one...  The lever is held on by one rivet on the backside. Grind the rivet off and the latch pulls right off.  When it comes to mounting...  When it comes to mounting the AutoLoc solenoid, it must be in a bind-free situation.  The solenoid attaches to the...  The solenoid attaches to the latch via a wire cable; therefore, I needed to find a mounting position that would be a straight shot with no obstructions. I found that the latch lever could be pulled straight down from the rear on the door latch assembly, which was perfect for this situation. From there I drilled a hole in the middle of the lever and crimped the AutoLoc cable in place.  The best part about using...  The best part about using that location as the latch is the AutoLoc solenoid could then be mounted at the bottom inside of the door for a straight pull.  By attaching the solenoid...  By attaching the solenoid brackets to the solenoid, I could then hold the bracket to the outside of the door, mark and drill my mounting holes, mount the assembly to the inside of the door, and attach the cable to the solenoid. By the way, the cable should be tight once mounted.  When wiring the solenoid,...  When wiring the solenoid, the hot wire needs to be at least 10-gauge, and a 40-amp fuse needs to be used in conjunction with the wire. As for grounding the solenoid, the bracket is self-grounding, but a wire could be run from the bracket to a ground if desired.  As for wiring the rest of...  As for wiring the rest of the system, follow the directions provided by AutoLoc. This is the central operating station of the system, the almighty and ever-knowing AutoLoc brain.  By hooking up the correct...  By hooking up the correct color-coded wires to various points on three relays,...  ...the system is installe...  ...the system is installed.  AutoLoc also provides each...  AutoLoc also provides each kit with this emergency button mounted in a secret location. The button is tapped into one of the solenoids; that way, if the remote batteries die, the door will open with the press of this button.  With the internals installed,...  With the internals installed, now it's time to clean up the wreckage. First, grind the area to bare metal.  When making a template to...  When making a template to fill the elongated hole, the easiest way is to place a sheet of paper against the door and trace the outline of the hole with your finger. The mark will be imprinted on the paper.  As for the other hole, I simply...  As for the other hole, I simply placed a sheet of paper behind the hole and outlined it on the paper. Remember, on this type of template you want to cut to the outside edge of your line for a tight fit.  The sheetmetal on the door...  The sheetmetal on the door where the patches need to be welded in is curved. To accommodate the curve in my patch, I found a round object to bend my 20-gauge cold-rolled steel.  From there I traced my templates...  From there I traced my templates onto the curved metal and cut them out with a pair of tin snips.  With the patterns cut, I test-fitted...  With the patterns cut, I test-fitted them and made several small trims to get them to fit just right.  Next up, I welded them in,...  Next up, I welded them in, bouncing around the patch to keep the heat down.  I also cooled each stitch...  I also cooled each stitch weld with air to keep the temperature of the metal down to avoid warping.  Note to self: a good way to...  Note to self: a good way to weld your patch in as flush as possible is to tack it in one spot, push or pull the metal with a screwdriver or body hammer where you want it, and tack it in each spot. Once the piece is adjusted accordingly, weld it in fully.  Along with the two big openings,...  Along with the two big openings, there are two holes about a quarter-inch in diameter. Instead of welding in a piece of metal, I decided to fill the hole with weld. But before I did that, I took a screwdriver and cleaned the paint off the inside of the hole. That way, the paint won't contaminate my weld.  Lastly, the welds were ground...  Lastly, the welds were ground down. Now all it needs is a skim of filler.
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The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
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