When it comes to mounting the AutoLoc solenoid, it must be in a bind-free situation. | 
The solenoid attaches to the latch via a wire cable; therefore, I needed to find a mounting position that would be a straight shot with no obstructions. I found that the latch lever could be pulled straight down from the rear on the door latch assembly, which was perfect for this situation. From there I drilled a hole in the middle of the lever and crimped the AutoLoc cable in place. | 
The best part about using that location as the latch is the AutoLoc solenoid could then be mounted at the bottom inside of the door for a straight pull. |
By attaching the solenoid brackets to the solenoid, I could then hold the bracket to the outside of the door, mark and drill my mounting holes, mount the assembly to the inside of the door, and attach the cable to the solenoid. By the way, the cable should be tight once mounted. | 
When wiring the solenoid, the hot wire needs to be at least 10-gauge, and a 40-amp fuse needs to be used in conjunction with the wire. As for grounding the solenoid, the bracket is self-grounding, but a wire could be run from the bracket to a ground if desired. | 
As for wiring the rest of the system, follow the directions provided by AutoLoc. This is the central operating station of the system, the almighty and ever-knowing AutoLoc brain. |
By hooking up the correct color-coded wires to various points on three relays,... | 
...the system is installed. | 
AutoLoc also provides each kit with this emergency button mounted in a secret location. The button is tapped into one of the solenoids; that way, if the remote batteries die, the door will open with the press of this button. |