As opposed to hauling home a project truck that is a long way from running, the beauty of buying an operating truck is that even if it's a little rough around the edges, you can enjoy it right away. In the case of the '79 Chevy Big 10 we threw together for Americruise, there were no two ways about it: we just got lucky. By lucky, we mean there were a lot of things that could have broken or gone wrong, but the old girl made it over 5,000 miles without missing a beat. Since the Big 10 ran Americruise, we have logged another 5,000 miles on the clock, but we have had to replace a few electrical components in addition to some cosmetic improvements we elected to do. Of course, the fun part is the cosmetic stuff, so we'll talk about that first, and then address the mechanical matters that apply to any late C-10 Chevrolet ever made.
One of the neat things about trucks built in the '70s is that you can still order your new truck one option at a time instead of the option packages forced onto new truck buyers today. Just about the first thing we do when we tear into an old Chevy truck is pull the seat out and flip it over to see if the buildsheet (broadcast) is still underneath it. Even without the buildsheet, it was obvious our Big 10 had its share of desirable high-end options juxtaposed with an array of option-deletes that created an interesting sparseness to the Big 10's look. Enfrente, as our buddies south of the border say; with its base-model white-painted front bumper, the Big 10 looked about as plain Jane as a truck can get. Not quite so bad was the Big 10's stock Argent Gray C-10 grille, complete with a Bow Tie in the center, but it had some room for improvement as well. Although the base-model grille and bumper are not all that pleasing to look at, at least they can't cause harm to the truck like the mirrors it was equipped with. We call them "door-killers"-they are the number-one reason why it is next to impossible to find a '73-87 C-10 with a good pair of doors.
To handle the improvements we wanted to make to the Big 10, we fired her up and drove down to Classic Industries in Huntington Beach, California, where we were in for a pleasant surprise. Not only did Classic Industries stock the more desirable-appearing dual chrome mirrors available for late C-10s, but the ones they carry are genuine GM items still in the GM factory wrapping. All that was required to mount them was to buy the original GM mounting plate that Classic Industries stocks and bolt them onto the existing factory holes. There is a black rubber base gasket that normally goes on the mirrors, but we liked how the mirrors looked better without them. With the "door-killer" problem solved, we moved on to the next items on our Classic Industries shopping list, installing a triple-plated chrome replacement front bumper and silver aftermarket replacement grille with the Bow Tie emblem shaved.

When your favorite color is...

When your favorite color is chrome, the only answer is to dump the plain Jane white base-model bumper for a triple-plated beauty from Classic Industries of Huntington Beach, CA. Ditto for the stock Argent Gray grille with a Classic Industries metallic silver grille with the Bow Tie shaved.

A 3/8-inch air impact wrench...

A 3/8-inch air impact wrench made short work of removing the stock mounting nuts attached to the unpolished stainless steel carriage bolts visible on the bumper's face.
Satisfied with the new custom look our Big 10 was taking on, we progressed to addressing some of the maintenance issues that had cropped up. One of the questions that sometimes pops up when a group of guys are talking about old trucks is what determines how long a factory original part will last, wear or time. In the case of our Big 10, we'd definitely say wear had nothing to do with it, but rather our electrical components were more like a time bomb. With only 75,000 original miles on the odometer, the Big 10's switches seemed crisp, but the A/C fan-speed switch had a direct short in the high position, and the inoperative headlights were caused by a fried dimmer switch. Once again, Classic Industries was the source for genuine General Motors parts new in the box. The chrome four-way fan switch was a direct replacement, as was the aftermarket dimmer switch manufactured for Classic Industries by Wells of Fond Du Lac, Wisconsin.
In addition to the repairs that required the replacement of new parts, there were a couple of repairs we made that didn't cost us a dime, and after we finished restoring some of the Big 10's original features, our old Chevy was a lot more fun to drive.CCT

We noted how the brackets...

We noted how the brackets were positioned on the original bumper before we transferred them to the new chrome bumper.

This close-up clearly depicts...

This close-up clearly depicts the proper alignment of a bracket bolted onto the new bumper before installing it onto the truck.

Provided the original stainless...

Provided the original stainless steel carriage bolts are in reuseable condition, they can be polished on a bench polisher to a high luster as brilliant as chrome and then reused (before and after viewed from bottom to top).

All that was necessary to...

All that was necessary to remove the original grille was to turn the mounting screws counterclockwise and then jiggle it out of place. Installing the new Classic grille was a simple reversal of the process, making sure not to overtighten the screws.

A fruit fly's view of the...

A fruit fly's view of the notorious Chevy C-10 "door-killer" mirror before being replaced with the much cleaner-styled smaller C-10 chrome mirrors.

Removal consisted of unbolting...

Removal consisted of unbolting three righthand threaded 1/20-inch bolts.

We coated the fasteners for...

We coated the fasteners for the new chrome mirrors with red Loctite before installing.

Notice the bolt pattern is...

Notice the bolt pattern is different from the "door-killer" to the chrome mirror, but the holes for the chrome mirrors are present from the factory on all C-10 doors.

Also notice the mounting hole...

Also notice the mounting hole for the "door-killer" peeks out slightly from behind the chrome mirror bracket when it is in place.

We injected red silicone into...

We injected red silicone into the hole to eliminate water leakage into the door that could cause premature rust.

All we needed to mount the...

All we needed to mount the new chrome mirror to the bracket was an Allen head set screw.

Next on our list was to replace...

Next on our list was to replace the four-position A/C and heater fan switch, where we discovered a dead short in the high position after extensive troubleshooting.

In order to access the fan...

In order to access the fan switch, we had to remove all the Phillips screws in the fascia of the black plastic dash cluster.

Removing the dash cluster...

Removing the dash cluster required "jockeying" around the main A/C vent to allow the cluster to free itself and fall away from the dashboard.

With the dash cluster removed,...

With the dash cluster removed, it was the perfect time to gain access and fix the indicator needle on the shift quadrant that had remained broken for who knows how long. Notice that the cause was a broken cable.

We used a crush-type terminal...

We used a crush-type terminal connector to repair the broken cable. Notice the bracket that holds the cable in place is adjustable up and down for tension.

We moved the cable up and...

We moved the cable up and down until the needle lined up, and then we tightened it down.

While the dash cluster was...

While the dash cluster was disassembled, it was the perfect time to gain access to detail the areas normally inaccessible. We found Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer to be the perfect product to restore the appearance as new.

To replace the original fan...

To replace the original fan switch, it wasn't necessary to completely remove the switch panel.

The switch panel was tilted...

The switch panel was tilted outward enough to allow access to the two screws retaining the switch, and then we removed it.

To insure a long life of trouble-free...

To insure a long life of trouble-free service, we coated the terminals on the switch with diekectric grease.

That completed, we replaced...

That completed, we replaced the plug onto the new switch and reattached it to the switch panel.

Last on our list was to replace...

Last on our list was to replace the dimmer switch. We determined the original switch was bad by jumping 12 volts to the high and low beams to establish they worked.

Some good clues that the dimmer...

Some good clues that the dimmer switch needed to be replaced were the burnt wires and a melted plug.

A continuity test confirmed...

A continuity test confirmed the burnt-appearing switch was no good.

The new switches were free...

The new switches were free from any discoloration and restored a new appearance to the '79's cab. Notice the seat material is the original stuff straight from the factory. In next month's edition we will show you how to use a Bowie knife to cut out the original seats and make a tablecloth for your mom.

We applied dielectric grease...

We applied dielectric grease to the terminals before replacing the wiring connector plug.

The finishing touch was to...

The finishing touch was to bolt the dimmer switch back down and test it to see if the low and high beams worked-they did, and we were done!