Aluminum Gas Tank - Totally Tanked

Taking no chances, Chance (sorry, that was lame, but I had to do it) secured the tank to the frame using C-clamps, which made sure the tank didn't move during drilling.

Before we got out the drill, we used a punch in the center of our marked holes to aid the drill bit from moving around. After all, we don't want to scratch the new tank.

Using the correct bit, we drilled the holes through the tank flanges and the frame.

Next up, we secured the tank to the frame. We used regular nuts and bolts, but No Limit does provide threaded clips for those who do this with the bed on.

Although the tank does act as a giant crossmember to help keep the frame's integrity intact, No Limit suggests using the rear crossmember. However, instead of just reinstalling it, they recommend flipping the crossmember over for better fitment. By flipping the crossmember and finding the correct mounting position, we were able to drill the new holes in the frame to bolt up the crossmember.

Because we moved the tank to the truck's rear, the factory fuel lines will no longer work. Therefore, we had Inline Tube send us 3/8-inch stainless steel fuel line stock so we could make our own fuel line.

Using a small tubing bender and the Knee Bender 2000 (the region just below your knee cap), we bent the Inline Tube fuel line to follow the frame's contour from the fuel pump to the rear of the No Limit tank.

Because the fuel line will connect to the fuel pump and No Limit tank via a short rubber hose, I flared the end of the line, which will help prevent the line from sliding off or working itself loose.

Here you can see how I bent the line to follow the Air Ride Technologies C-notch and mounting bolts. It's important to make sure you flow with the frame and make sure the line isn't resting on any protruding objects. The last thing you want is your fuel line rubbing up against something and eventually springing a leak.