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Installing Tubular Control Arms For Chevy Trucks - Cheap Thrills - TechHelp Avoid Nasty Spills From the February, 2009 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Dakota Wentz Photography by John Gilbert
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Depending on who you ask, the phrase "form before function" will draw mixed emotions. Some will say it's all about looks, while others will say it's all about handling. Although both cases hold water, neither will doubt the fact that such forms of function as brakes, stance, and driveability must not be ignored. When it comes to '73-87 Chevy trucks, looks are key to a build, but the square-bodied rides must be able to go down the road as well. Classic Performance Products in Anaheim, California, is all about helping your hauler get down the road safely and stylishly. Their plethora of parts range from front to back and up and down for square-bodied Chevys, but as of right now, we're going to focus on just a few key products, their tubular controls with a disc brake/spindle kit and the new hydroboost braking system. The tubular control arms will help set the correct stance for lowered trucks in several ways, and they will also eliminate the scary factor of having to butcher stock A-arms. The new spindle/brake kits and hydroboost will solve all your braking needs, and the real kicker is the relatively easy installs that have more than adequate benefits, and they won't have you saving your lunch money for the next year. The Classic Performance Products tubular control arms are designed to provide full suspension travel and minimal friction. The upper CPP arms are constructed from 1 1/4x.120-inch-wall, and the lower arms are 1 1/2x.120-inch-wall DOM tubing. The pivot barrels are beefy 1 1/2x.188-inch-wall DOM tubing that helps eliminate distortion from welding and hard use. The arms are lowered-truck-friendly since they are designed to increase ground clearance over the stock arms, and the upper arms have been designed with five degrees more caster than the stock arms. Instead of utilizing rubber or polyurethane bushings, CPP has designed a patented plastic self-lubricating non-squeak bushing that provides a comfortable ride and increased handling. The 4140-alloy steel cross-shafts and sleeves are zinc-plated for lasting performance. Along with that, the sleeves have an interlocking design that prevents the hardware from working itself loose. The original cross-shaft pivot was designed to carry either a forward or back load, however, the CPP cross-shafts are designed with both forward and backward loads. The control arms come preassembled for an easy bolt-in installation, and they can be installed as a full set, or mixed and matched with either factory upper or lower control arms.  Preassembled and ready to...  Preassembled and ready to rock, the CPP control arms come finished with silver powdercoating.  Besides the CPP arms' added...  Besides the CPP arms' added handling and driveability factors, the lower ball joints aren't as big as the stock ball joints, which means the CPP arms allow for more room on the inside of the rim on lower trucks. On this '74 Chevy that is dropped with standard spindles and coils,... Many truck aficionados think that as long as you have the latest and greatest master cylinder, booster, calipers, discs, etc., your hauler should stop on command, which isn't exactly the case. When designing brake systems, you have to start thinking about master cylinder bore sizes, booster sizes, valves, and especially vacuum. Vacuum is one of those things that is often an afterthought, but without it, no matter what parts you have, the truck won't stop. In the quest to rocket down the highway at the fastest speed possible, truck owners are running such hot cams that it's killing vacuum, and therefore killing braking. To compensate for the loss of vacuum, people install vacuum pumps that do help, but even then braking potential isn't at its fullest. One of CPP's latest products, their hydroboost braking system, is designed to alleviate the problem. The hydroboost system, which replaces the power booster in a power brake system, is powered off of pressure from the power steering pump. Instead of running off of vacuum like a power booster, the hydroboost is powered by pressure from the power steering pump. The hydroboost taps into the power steering pump and uses the pump's pressure to deliver clamping force to the calipers. The CPP hydroboost delivers 1,300 psi at the wheels, and because it doesn't run off vacuum, the calipers will be given the same amount of pressure from the minute you hit the brakes all the way up until the second you let off them. What happens if you lose your power steering pump or the motor dies? No worries. The hydroboost's accumulator stores enough high pressure for three full power stops. For instance, let's say you're cruising down the highway and you kill the motor; the first time you hit the brakes, the system will deliver 80 percent of the system's full potential until you let off the brakes. Once the brake is let up and pushed again, roughly 50 percent of the power is there, and if you let off the brakes and hit them for a third time, you're scraping the bottom of the barrel for the rest of the power. After three stops with no engine power, the system converts into what is called manual brake push through compliance, which means the system becomes a true manual brake system. If all this sounds a little too space age for ya, consider this: hydroboost technology has been around since the early '70s, when GM equipped many of their 1-ton trucks and even some mid-'70s Cadillac Eldorados. In more recent years, all Ford Mustang Cobras from '96 on are equipped with a hydroboost, every Hummer ever made has a hydroboost, and since '05, GM has equipped every 1-ton truck with a hydroboost. The CPP hydroboost system, which is completely bolt-in for specific vehicles and manufactured from all-brand-new parts, is much like a power brake system: it still uses a master cylinder, proportioning valve, and the like. The only difference is instead of running a power booster for power brakes, a hydroboost sits between the firewall and the master cylinder. But don't be fooled, a hydroboost system isn't just for trucks with low vacuum; it is also an excellent upgrade on trucks with manual brakes. Instead of opting to convert one's system to power brakes via a power booster, a hydroboost is also a viable option.  ...the ends of the lower A-arms...  ...the ends of the lower A-arms had to be cut away just to get the lower A-arm to clear the 15-inch rim. Although it does work, there are still signs of minimal rubbing; taking away the metal around the lower ball joint weakens the arms' internal structure, making them prone to bending and possibly even breaking.  In order to install the new...  In order to install the new arms, the factory arms had to be removed. By removing the caliper and spindle/brake unit, the arms can be unbolted. With the OEM arms removed, we can get this side-by-side comparison of the CPP and OEM lower arms.  Since the arms come preassembled,...  Since the arms come preassembled, all you have to do is bolt them up. The crew at CPP began by bolting up the upper A-arm. As a side note, even though the truck will have to be aligned, try to use all the alignment shims used with the factory A-arms; this will help keep the alignment close to what it was.  Next up, the lower arms were...  Next up, the lower arms were bolted up.  On '73-87 trucks, the upper...  On '73-87 trucks, the upper shock mounts protrude from the frame. The mount is more or less a lone standing stud prone to breaking off after miles of wear and tear. CPP makes these support brackets that bolt to the stud and the frame to keep the factory mounts from breaking....  ...By placing the CPP bracket...  ...By placing the CPP bracket on the mount, two holes can be drilled into the frame. Then the shock can be slid into place and the bracket can be bolted up.  Next up, the spring was placed...  Next up, the spring was placed in the pocket and on the lower A-arm.  Then the shock was mounted...  Then the shock was mounted to the lower A-arm.  Along with the arms, we also...  Along with the arms, we also upgraded the braking with one of CPP's spindle/disc package kits. The kit includes drop spindles and cross-drilled and slotted rotors; standard spindles and rotors are also available. And just like the A-arms, the spindle/brake package is-yes, you guessed it-preassembled for easy installation.  The spindle/disc unit was...  The spindle/disc unit was hoisted up into place and bolted in.  Then the stock calipers were...  Then the stock calipers were bolted to the new spindles as well as the wheels.  With the new arms and brakes...  With the new arms and brakes installed, we focused on upgrading the truck to a power brake system. Instead of going with a power brake booster, we installed one of CPP's new hydroboost systems designed for '73-87 Chevys.  The truck was equipped with...  The truck was equipped with a dual master cylinder, so the first order of business was to remove the master cylinder and install the hydroboost unit. CPP manufactures the unit's base plate to align with the master cylinder bolts,...  ...which makes the unit a...  ...which makes the unit a complete bolt-in system. CPP connected the brake pedal to the lever on the unit's backside.  The kit comes with stainless...  The kit comes with stainless braided hose for the power steering feed lines and rubber hose for the return lines. All the lines need to be cut to fit. When cutting the braided lines,...  ...you should wrap a piece...  ...you should wrap a piece of tape around the hose where you plan to cut the line-it will keep the line from fraying-then slide the bottom end of the hose on the line. Next, slide the brass fitting on the hose and under the braided stainless. Lastly, screw the hose end back together.  When it comes to running the...  When it comes to running the lines for the hydroboost, start by connecting the power steering pump's feed line to the feed on the hydroboost. On the opposite side of the hydroboost is the feed line to the steering box, so route that one next. Be sure to use the braided stainless hose on both of those.  As for the return line, leave...  As for the return line, leave the power steering pump to the steering box line intact, but cut it in half roughly a foot from the pump. Next, insert the provided T-fitting into the stock line. On the other end of the T, run the new CPP hose up to the return line on the hydroboost next to the hydroboost feed line.  CPP then bolted up the master...  CPP then bolted up the master cylinder to the hydroboost after it was bled.  Using a brake line bender,...  Using a brake line bender, which can be purchased from any auto store, CPP bent the upper brake lines and installed them into the brake lines and master cylinder.  We opted to install one of...  We opted to install one of CPP's master cylinders with a built-in proportioning valve. By loosening the locknut and turning the valve key with an Allen wrench, CPP adjusted the amount of brake pressure being delivered to the truck's rear. By setting the valve in the middle and then going out for a series of stops, you can adjust the valve properly. We did this by making a series of stops and slowly backing off the rear brake pressure until the rear wheels didn't lock up.  Before the new CPP hydroboost...  Before the new CPP hydroboost was installed, we headed out to get some 60-0 times in the manual-brake dual master cylinder-equipped Chevy. The best we could rustle up was a 201.94-foot marking. Once the hydroboost system was installed and adjusted properly, we clocked in at 151.64 feet-that's 50 feet shorter! And to think, you were skeptical about a hydroboost system...
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The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
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