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1971 Chevy C10 - One Piece Window Conversion Kit Install - Room To VentOne-Piece Glass Installation In A 1971 C10 Pickup From the August, 2006 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Robbie Azevedo Photography by Robbie Azevedo
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If you saw last month's first installment on our Pacific Coast Customs C10 shop truck, then you know that after purchasing what was going to be a driver, we ended up dismantling it to begin the buildup. The C10 was too tired to be a reliable daily driver. After installing the tilt column and making it much safer, it was time to do something about the windows. The driver-side window lacked weatherstripping and had a broken regulator, so we decided a one-piece window conversion kit would be perfect for our application. We called the guys at Early Classic Enterprises in Fresno, California, and ordered a one-piece window kit with everything needed to switch over our old doors-even the glass was included. Faster than you can recite the Gettysburg Address while standing on your head, the components arrived in unbreakable packaging. It is a timely install, about four hours or so for each door, so plan an entire day. You'll need a helper to remove the door and hold parts here and there. The job can be accomplished using normal hand tools, but does require some knowledge to get the windows functioning properly. In the future, we'll be enhancing this installation further when we put in power window regulators to give our arms a rest from the cranking. For now, learn how to install Early Classic Enterprises' top-quality one-piece window conversion kit.  This is the before picture...  This is the before picture of our tired windows. They've been through 35 years of work-time to give them a rest and give you more room to use your cruisin' arm!  The Early Classic Enterprises...  The Early Classic Enterprises kit is exceptionally well packaged. As you can see, they take a great deal of pride in their packing to make sure everything arrives in one piece.  The first thing to do is remove...  The first thing to do is remove the door panels. This requires removing the armrest (our truck didn't have one), then removing the window crank and door lever. To accomplish this, you need a special tool designed to slide off the clips that hold the window cranks. You should be able to pick one up at your local auto parts store. Slide the tool behind the crank, push the clip off the lever, and pull the handle off the splines.  Remove the screws at the bottom...  Remove the screws at the bottom of the door panel. Some newer vehicles come with clips. Pop the clips off with a clip removal tool or carefully with a screwdriver.  Slide the door panel out of...  Slide the door panel out of the groove on the top and lay it aside until later.  Remove the vent window-there...  Remove the vent window-there are three screws in the doorjamb that need to be taken out.  With the upper three removed,...  With the upper three removed, move on to the two at the bottom of the door near the front.  With some careful pulling...  With some careful pulling and twisting, the vent assembly should come out fairly easily. Don't throw it out; you'll need it later.  The window was next. You will...  The window was next. You will need to slide it back and remove the rear track, then slide it forward to take out the front one in the middle of the track. Pull the glass out of the door and lay it aside for later.  Remove the felt and outside...  Remove the felt and outside weatherstrip by popping it off with a small screwdriver.  The brace in the door needs...  The brace in the door needs to be cut out. We used a cordless Sawzall. A hacksaw or cutoff wheel on an air tool would also work. Be sure to cut as close to the edge as possible to eliminate sharp edges rubbing your glass later on.  The rear window track needs...  The rear window track needs to be removed. ...  ...There's one screw right...  ...There's one screw right above the door latch in the doorjamb.  Two more fasteners are located...  Two more fasteners are located in the rear of the inner door.  After all three screws are...  After all three screws are removed you can slide out the window track. Here's how the window track originally went in the door. It was angled dramatically. This part will be changed for the new windows. This is the upper mount tab that needs to be removed.  To remove it you need to grind...  To remove it you need to grind away the two rivets holding it on. We mounted it snug in the vise and ground down the heads of both rivets. After grinding down both rivets, tap them out with a hammer.  Once you have the mount ground...  Once you have the mount ground off, measure up from the bottom 19 inches and cut off the top of the channel. We cut ours in a vertical bandsaw, but you could also use a Sawzall, hacksaw or cutoff wheel.  The two small aluminum mounting...  The two small aluminum mounting brackets included in the kit need to be taped together to keep them in place for the installation. It doesn't matter what type of tape you use as long as it holds. Simply line up the holes and tape together as shown.  Attach the taped bracket to...  Attach the taped bracket to the original mount on the window track as shown.  The extra piece needs to be...  The extra piece needs to be toward the door.  Here is what the track should...  Here is what the track should look like ready to be installed in the vehicle.  Slide the track in the same...  Slide the track in the same way it was removed and attach it in the front hole through the one in the provided mount. The weatherstripping will hold the upper portion in once installed.  By deinstalling the door,...  By deinstalling the door, you can best perform the following task. To make alignment much easier when reinstalling, we decided to mark out the door hinge with a Sharpie first. If you have nice paint, you'll want to skip this step and take your time realigning the door!  Remove the door from the truck...  Remove the door from the truck and lay it on a surface where you can work on it.  While our door was off we...  While our door was off we decided we would weld up the two upper screw holes that used to hold the vent assembly in place. We ground down to bare metal to begin welding.  Weld up the two upper holes....  Weld up the two upper holes. We'll be using the lowest hole again; leave it alone. After the welding cooled, we ground the weld smooth and applied some paint to it.  Now back to that vent window...  Now back to that vent window assembly we laid aside. Clamp the assembly into the vise and grind the rivets off to disassemble it.  Here is what it should look...  Here is what it should look like with all the pieces disassembled. We are only going to use the long track.  At the top end of the channel...  At the top end of the channel there is a hole 1/8 inch from the top, which will now hold the bottom end of the track in the door. Measure 27.5 inches up from that end of the track and cut.  We cut ours with a bandsaw,...  We cut ours with a bandsaw, but you can use any type of cutting device.  With that piece done, there...  With that piece done, there is only one more piece to modify-the window sash. Remove the sash from the stock glass by prying slightly with a screwdriver. Be gentle; it'll come right off.  With the channel scraped clean,...  With the channel scraped clean, its time to make a couple of cuts. Mark as shown in the picture. The line isn't critical-as long as it's close to this, you'll be OK.  Now clamp on the adapter plate...  Now clamp on the adapter plate and drill the four mounting holes.  We cut ours again in the bandsaw,...  We cut ours again in the bandsaw, though you can use any proper cutting tool.  The back and front view of...  The back and front view of the finished product...  ...are revealed in these two...  ...are revealed in these two photos.  With the front door jamb edge,...  With the front door jamb edge, drill a 3/16 hole to attach the lower front edge track. We laid it out in masking tape. The hole needs to be 1/2 inch up from the lower door hinge's upper ledge and 3/4 inch in from the first edge toward the outside of the door.  Another reason to remove the...  Another reason to remove the door is to be able to grind down the check link. Mark it out as shown and cut as close to the rivets as possible without grinding through them.  We began with a cutoff wheel...  We began with a cutoff wheel to cut away the big portion and finished it off with a small grinding wheel.  To begin assembly, install...  To begin assembly, install the corner wedge into the door edge corner with the provided screw. We had our corner wedges powdercoated black to blend in better.  Apply a small amount of weatherstrip...  Apply a small amount of weatherstrip adhesive into the front track and install the weatherstripping.  Slide the track into the door...  Slide the track into the door and push into the corner wedge at the top. Run the lower screw into the track and through the weatherstripping; it will help hold the weatherstripping in.  Now install the weatherstripping...  Now install the weatherstripping into the door track from the bottom all the way up around the window edge. There's no need to use any adhesive in this portion, as it will hold itself in.  Cut a small portion to go...  Cut a small portion to go from the corner wedge up to the top of the edge.  Install the cut piece into...  Install the cut piece into the door.  With the window track weather-sealed,...  With the window track weather-sealed, the door was ready to be installed, so we put it back onto its hinges. Have a friend hold the door as you put the fasteners through the hinges.  Snug up all the bolts and...  Snug up all the bolts and align with the Sharpie line previously drawn on, then tighten the door.  Install the window sash into...  Install the window sash into the door and on the window regulator.  Next, put the new glass into...  Next, put the new glass into the door and into the sash. Roll the window up to align the sash in the correct place and mark with a Sharpie.  The window is easiest to mark...  The window is easiest to mark when in the down position, so make sure it doesn't move at all on its way down.  Pull the glass and sash back...  Pull the glass and sash back out of the door and apply the setting tape into the sash, then push the glass in.  Here's what the sash looks...  Here's what the sash looks like with the setting tape applied and ready for the glass.  Be sure to line up the marks...  Be sure to line up the marks on the glass with the edges of the sash.  We used some silicone spray...  We used some silicone spray to make it easier to install the sash onto the glass. The spray will evaporate so it won't be slippery later on.  We then took a razor blade...  We then took a razor blade and gently cut off the extra setting tape to make for a clean installation.  Place the finished window...  Place the finished window into the door. Make sure to align the front and back into the window tracks. You may need to unbolt the regulator to get it to move enough to slide onto the lower track.  Once the window's installed,...  Once the window's installed, it's time to install the felt and outer weatherstrip. These pieces push into place and clip in the door edge.  Then the outer weatherstrip...  Then the outer weatherstrip went in place.  We installed the door panel...  We installed the door panel back on by sliding it up into the track, then the four screws along the lower edge.  Here's the lever and clips....  Here's the lever and clips. You need to push the clip into the handle as shown to install them.  The snap-on tool removes the...  The snap-on tool removes the clip thus-the two pieces push on the clip's outer edge and pop the clip off.  If the clip is installed into...  If the clip is installed into the handle, just push the handle firmly over the splines. The clip will expand and then pop into place to hold the handle on.  Use the same procedure for...  Use the same procedure for the window crank. Push firmly.  From the inside or the ou...  From the inside or the outside,...  ...the doors look much better...  ...the doors look much better with one-piece glass.  Remember, if you're having...  Remember, if you're having any trouble with the installation, you can refer to the instructions. Now you can refer to this article as well. Keep both handy. Watch for the next article on Pacific Coast Customs' '71 Chevy C10 shop truck in a future issue of Custom Classic Trucks.
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1959 Ford F-100
Scott Oshinki rebuilt a 1959 Ford F-100 for his father-in-law Art Carney....
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