If you are like us, then you love your old truck and would never want to jeopardize its metal health. There's an old expression that says, "Why stop when you're having fun?" but when it comes to customized trucks, trust us, it's no fun when you can't stop.
Our subject vehicle is a '56 Chevy half-ton panel that belongs to one of our good friends who admits he is a moronic idiot. Allow us to explain why and we think you will agree. Wally's (a fake name to protect the idiotic) '56 panel, with its 375-horsepower, 350-inch Corvette engine and beefed Turbo-hydramatic tranny, is a strong runner-strong enough that it lights up the tires all the way into third gear.
Unfortunately, the 56's Corvette engine and trans are where the panel's performance improvements (not to make a pun) stop. The '56's original factory equipment single master cylinder with four-wheel drum brakes is still in place. Add to the mix Wally has no idea whether or not the brake shoes or hydraulics are up to OEM specs, and we have (another old expression) an accident just waiting to happen. Oh yeah, we should mention Wally was driving the truck with a rapidly increasing brake fluid leak in his hydraulic system. Anytime he felt the brake pedal getting low, he would just spin the cap off his vintage EIS master cylinder mounted in its stock location under the floor and pour in more brake fluid. For the most part, this bad practice worked OK, except Wally's leak intensified to the point that his brake pedal would hit the floor when he applied them coming up to a red light. Being kind of an ingenious lazy guy, Wally placed a funnel on top of his master cylinder, then poured brake fluid in and pumped the brakes as he was driving whenever he needed to stop.
While on his way to the Rat Fink Reunion held at Moon Equipment Speed Shop in Santa Fe Springs, California, Wally got into a little streetlight Grand Prix with a carload of guys in a '59 Ford Galaxy. He blew past the Galaxy like it was stopped, but when he hit the brakes for the red light ahead there was nothing there. Fortunately for Wally, Norwalk Blvd. has, er, uh, had a row of bushes on the center divider, and he was able to mow them down instead of plowing into the stopped traffic ahead.

Master Power Brakes' front...

Master Power Brakes' front disc kit (PN DB1753B) for '55-59 half-ton GMC and Chevrolet panel and pickup trucks includes (2) '70-77 Camaro-style rotors and (2) '68 Olds police-option disc brake calipers with mounting brackets and all necessary hardware (Master Power Brakes PN BRTR1751 mounting brackets fit '28-59 trucks).

Master Power Brakes' rear...

Master Power Brakes' rear disc kit (PN DB1716BR) for '55-72 trucks includes (2) Cadillac rear calipers with emergency brakes (used in all rear kits) and (2) Trans-Am multi-pattern rotors and all necessary hardware.

Master Power Brakes' dual-master...

Master Power Brakes' dual-master cylinder with power brake booster kit for '55-59 Chevys and GMCs includes 4WD Corvette-style master cylinders with a 7-inch booster and VL3350 combination valve. These valves give the correct front-to-rear bias and prevent nosedive and rear wheel lockup under extreme braking conditions.
In the issue at hand, we are installing a complete four-wheel disc brake conversion kit from the fine folks at Master Power Brakes of Mooresville, North Carolina, onto Wally's '56 panel .
When MP Brakes says their kit is complete, they're not kidding. Everything from new wheel bearings and grease seals to grease caps and flex hoses is included. The beauty of buying an engineered kit such as MP Brakes' is there's no guessing at which proportioning valve you need to use with which master cylinder or brake caliper. All these determinations have been figured out.
We would like to have run a before-and-after comparison test on Wally's '56 for 60-to-0 braking results, but we couldn't find a test track long enough to conduct the before portion. Once we get Wally fixed up with a set of tires that won't pop, we'll gather some stopping distance data.
As a reference point, figure that a stock Tri-Five Chevy or GMC in tip-top condition will require over 200 feet to stop from 60 mph. The average stopping distance for brand-new full-size heavy-duty pickups will run around 170 feet. For a 1500-series Sierra or Silverado, count on around 150 feet, with approximately 120 feet to stop a Chevy SS pickup in its tracks.
In the state of California it doesn't take much for politicians to pass a new law. After a Toyota pickup with a camper shell full of people fell off a freeway overpass, exterminating its many occupants, it's now illegal for anyone to ride in the bed of a pickup truck.
Since Wally isn't exactly graced with a lot of luck, he might end up plowing through a minivan packed full of people and being the guy who got classic trucks banned from our highways. What about you? Is your old truck irreplaceable or potentially the Typhoid Mary of a new ban on customized trucks? Either way, it's not a pretty thought. Please follow along as we update Wally's '56 Chevy panel and hopefully inspire others to update their '55-59 GM trucks to survive in the 21st century. After all, if you want to go fast, you have to stop fast.

Reservoir access to the original...

Reservoir access to the original '55-59 single-brake master cylinder is located in front of the brake pedal under the inspection cover in the floorboards.

We removed the stock master...

We removed the stock master cylinder by unbolting two 31/48-inch bolts that required backing up with a 91/416-inch open-end wrench on the inside of the mounting bracket attached to the frame....

...For installing Master Power...

...For installing Master Power Brakes' kit, they include two 31/48-inch 24 bolts that attach the BR1752 bracket in place of the stock master cylinder.

It was easiest to remove the...

It was easiest to remove the stock master cylinder with the brake pedal partially disassembled (looking upward). We removed the nut holding the brake pedal shaft to the brake arm attached to the master cylinder by tapping it with a 2-pound brass hammer. We removed the brake arm from the stock master cylinder by drifting its locating pin out (the pin has a zerk fitting on the end). The brake pedal assembly was reattached to the front of the BR1752 bracket after the BM1752 booster was bolted into place.

The 1/16-inch brake line supplying...

The 1/16-inch brake line supplying the front brakes and the 1/4-inch line for the rear brakes was replaced instead of bending them to fit the repositioned pickup points on the VL3350 combination valve mounted on the MP Brakes dual master cylinder.

The brake booster and master...

The brake booster and master cylinder bolted into place. Note two 91/416-inch hex-head mounting bolts beneath the brake rod. Also note the emergency brake pulley under the BR1752 bracket (we bent this bracket down slightly for clearance).

Here's the VL3350 combination...

Here's the VL3350 combination valve bolted into place. The blue 91/416-inch x 24-pitch fitting on the left feeds pressure to the rear brakes via the 11/44-inch line. The brass 31/48-24 fitting on the right above the bracket feeds pressure to the front via a 31/48-inch x 24-pitch fitting.

Spraying penetrating oil on...

Spraying penetrating oil on rusted nuts and bolts before unbolting eased the disassembly process.

We installed Master Power...

We installed Master Power Brakes' four-wheel disc conversion kit in a driveway with a minimum of specialized tools. Always exhibit extreme caution when working with jackstands. Failure to do so can result in DEATH!

By pulling the cotter keys...

By pulling the cotter keys and then backing off the spindle nuts, we removed the front brake drums. We retained the spindle nuts with backing washers to be reinstalled with the new brakes.

Timken-style tapered bearings...

Timken-style tapered bearings replaced these antiquated ball bearings.

To remove the front backing...

To remove the front backing plates with the brake shoe assemblies intact, we unscrewed these four bolts and withdrew them from the spindle.

Before installing the AD1704...

Before installing the AD1704 bearing adapters, we inspected the front spindles for galling or excessive wear. We used fine emery cloth to dress the spindles off.

Upon attempting to install...

Upon attempting to install the bearing adapters, we discovered the fit was too tight. This dimension can vary from truck to truck. We used a brake-cylinder hone to open up the inside diameter.

We cut a length of 1 3/4-inch...

We cut a length of 1 3/4-inch pipe...

...(1 1/2-inch works best)...

...(1 1/2-inch works best) to drive the bearing adapter into place.

Before we could mount the...

Before we could mount the RT141040 brake rotors, the BRTR1751 brackets had to be installed and the...

...Inner-bearing races that...

...Inner-bearing races that came in the rotors had to be knocked out carefully with a drift punch and refitted with the A-13 inner races included with the kit.

After the A-13 races were...

After the A-13 races were installed using extra care to make sure they were pressed in evenly,...

...we packed the Timken bearings...

...we packed the Timken bearings with Hi-Temp disc brake grease and installed the HW8871 grease seals.

This is the top view showing...

This is the top view showing the bracket installed with the required spacers and brake rotor.

Here's the completed front...

Here's the completed front disc brake assembly.

We used a brake tool to unhook...

We used a brake tool to unhook the return spring...

...and pliers to twist off...

...and pliers to twist off the keepers.

Then the brake shoes were...

Then the brake shoes were removed, allowing access to the four bolts retaining the rear axle flange.

We used a Morgan Knocker to...

We used a Morgan Knocker to pull the rear axles (any slide hammer will work).

The bare flange was cleaned...

The bare flange was cleaned (this is a before shot) in order to install...

...the backing plate spacer...

...the backing plate spacer used to maintain clearances.

The spacer is in place, ready...

The spacer is in place, ready for reassembly.

The axles were tapped in with...

The axles were tapped in with a 2-pound brass hammer.

Afterward, we screwed in the...

Afterward, we screwed in the four Allen head retaining bolts... ...then placed the four hi-collar washers on the rear axle flange's face. IMPORTANT NOTE: The BR1716 brackets in the DB1716BR kit bolt in directly for '59-64 trucks with 3.8:1 gear ratios. On some '55-58 rearends with 3.9:1 ratios,...

...the primary brackets might...

...the primary brackets might not seat flush on the flange. On our '56 Chevy, we ground a small amount of metal from the BR1716 brackets to fit against the raised areas. As with all custom installations, trial-fit the parts before painting or plating.

The caliper mounting bracket...

The caliper mounting bracket bolts had to be inserted into the primary bracket before it was bolted to the flange.

The flange was cleaned......

The flange was cleaned...

...along with filing high...

...along with filing high spots caused by 50 years of wear and tear. IMPORTANT NOTE: Check to ensure axle flanges are 611/48 inches before fitting rotors.

Here is how our primary and...

Here is how our primary and caliper mounting brackets appeared after we mounted them. Note the antiseize on the flange.

We slid the Cadillac caliper...

We slid the Cadillac caliper into place and tightened its two mounting bolts.

The big coil spring is part...

The big coil spring is part of the Cadillac parking brake system. IMPORTANT NOTE: It is absolutely essential that the parking brake is engaged every time the truck is parked to adjust the rear brakes (just like self-adjusting drum brakes).

We bolted on our flex-hose...

We bolted on our flex-hose mount.

Here's our completed Master...

Here's our completed Master Power Brakes rear disc brake assembly. In an upcoming issue of Custom Classic Trucks, we hope to publish the results of stopping tests conducted on Wally's '56 Chevy panel.