The enjoyment of owning any custom classic truck intensifies greatly with the addition of each new improvement. There is almost nothing more fun than outperforming some poor unsuspecting soul in his brand-new high-performance whatever-he's-driving with an old pickup. By outperform we mean not only straight-line acceleration, but outhandling and outbraking as well.
Even if you're not inclined to blow the doors off of something, these characteristics are essential to helping your irreplaceable old truck survive on today's idiot-packed mean streets. When the subject is narrowed down to Tri-Five GMC and Chevrolet trucks (which actually could be called Five-Five trucks, since '58 and '59s are virtually mechanically and cosmetically identical to the Tri-Fives), there is an infinite number of high-performance and safety options available.
Almost without exception, the first major change any custom Tri-Five owner goes for is to plug in more horsepower. It's only a matter of time before the trusty ol' stovebolt six-banger is tossed in favor of a small-block V-8. It's really hard to imagine anyone who wouldn't get an ear-to-ear smile the first time they hit the loud pedal-so why stop when you're having fun? Well, if you don't want to end up with your truck appearing as a hood ornament on a Buick, you're going to have to be able to swerve around or stop in time before you plow into the beast.
To be able to handle both skills means faster steering with better brakes. The best solution entails swapping out the Tri-Five's drum brake recirculating ball steering and straight-axle frontend with an IFS featuring disc brakes and rack-and-pinion steering. For the majority of Tri-Fives on the road today, a V-8 conversion with an IFS frontend swap is as far as most guys go. The truth of the matter is they are only two-thirds of the way home.
Even with a stock Chevy 6, the Tri-Five's half-elliptical rear leaf-spring suspension is pretty much maxed out, optioned with a 265 or 283-inch motor, and one is guaranteed wheel hop or axle tramp.

Since the mid-'60s, the term...

Since the mid-'60s, the term weight transfer has been commonly used by drag racers to describe the rear suspension's ability to deliver the vehicle's weight over the rear wheels. For inherently rearend-light Tri-Five pickups, the TCI parallel four-link suspension kit is a good solution to potentially bad traction problems encountered during all driving conditions. This bolt-in kit enables do-it-yourself Tri-Five owners to perform a successful install at home. The only welding required for the basic kit is to attach the link pickup point brackets to the rear axle (differential). For Tri-Five owners desiring a conversion to an optional Currie 9-inch rearend, no welding is required, period.

Here's how the TCI four-link...

Here's how the TCI four-link setup looked after George performed the simple bolt-in installation. Removing the pickup bed was the easiest way to go about it.

Before starting our install,...

Before starting our install, George made absolutely sure our '57 Chevy big-window was safely raised in the air. Failure to take proper safety precautions while lifting a vehicle can result in death-imagine a watermelon after it has been dropped from an airplane.
"Axle tramp is a common attribute in powerful, rear-drive vehicles with leaf springs. The unpleasant sensation-also known as wheel hop-causes a loss of traction and an alarmingly bumpy ride under hard acceleration." This definition of wheel hop is from the Ford Motor Company of Australia's website, and it applies to cars. In the case of Tri-Five pickups, where there is much less weight on the rear wheels, all it takes is a six-banger to break 'em loose.
What this translates to for the most commonly utilized powerplant in today's Tri-Fives, the powerful 350-inch small-block Chevy, is a truck that can't leave the line without spinning in its tracks in a fog of burning rubber.
Straight-line acceleration is just the start of things (no pun intended). Now let's talk about the Tri-Five's stock leaf-spring suspension when it comes to brisk highway driving characteristics. The leaf springs' unpredictable behavior while cornering near its limit is caused by the rear of the truck steering itself without any input from the driver. Rear-end or rear bumpsteer, as it is known, is caused by the sideways movement of the differential.
Boy, it's almost enough bad news to make one afraid to drive their stock rear-suspended Tri-Five anywhere, but have no fear, because we have the cure. And not only do we have a solution to this pesky problem, but it's one you guys can handle at home just by following these photos and text.

The rear view of our '57's...

The rear view of our '57's completed TCI four-link suspension kit-the suspension and differential setup looks as good as it works.

With the '57 safely lifted...

With the '57 safely lifted into the air, George placed a floor jack under the center of the differential to release spring and shock absorber tension to ease its removal.

After the rear axle (differential)...

After the rear axle (differential) was removed, the leaf springs were removed by unbolting them at the spring perch (front) and removing the rear shackles.

The stock leaf spring perches...

The stock leaf spring perches (front and rear) needed to be removed before proceeding with our install.

George removed the stock spring...

George removed the stock spring perches with a combination of methods. Here he is using a 4-inch abrasive wheel mounted on an air-powered die-grinder to cut off the rivet heads attaching the right-side rear perch.

Here are three different views...

Here are three different views of George using a 3-pound ball-peen hammer to drive a sharp,...

...cold chisel into the rivet...

...cold chisel into the rivet heads....

...To achieve the best removal...

...To achieve the best removal results he alternated methods.

Here's how George used......

Here's how George used...

...a body grinder to work...

...a body grinder to work...

...at removing the rivets...

...at removing the rivets.

After the perches were removed,...

After the perches were removed, George used the body grinder to clean up the frame's surface by dressing it off.

With the frame's surface clean,...

With the frame's surface clean, George was ready to unbolt the rear crossbrace (necessary to improve access).

The TCI four-link front mounting...

The TCI four-link front mounting plate was bolted into place utilizing the rivet holes from the stock front perch after they were drilled out to 5/8-inch.

With the mounting plate bolted...

With the mounting plate bolted down tight,...

...George then used it as...

...George then used it as a template to drill the upper link's 7/16-inch mounting bolt's hole through the framerail.

Here George is pushing the...

Here George is pushing the upper link into place...

...using a Soft-Blow hamm...

...using a Soft-Blow hammer.

Before installing the mounting...

Before installing the mounting bolts, George used and recommended anti-seize.

He used the Soft-Blow hammer...

He used the Soft-Blow hammer to drift the mounting bolts into place.

With the bolts pressed all...

With the bolts pressed all the way through, George was able to screw the nut on...

...and snug them down.

Here are the properly installed...

Here are the properly installed upper and lower links.

Before mounting the TCI rear...

Before mounting the TCI rear crossmember into place, George used a 12-inch crescent wrench to spread the framerails open....

...(This dimension can vary...

...(This dimension can vary from truck to truck. First check to see if the crossmember will fit into place without this step.)

With the framerails opened...

With the framerails opened to allow a snug fit, the crossmember was driven home using the soft-blow hammer.

George used the 12-inch crescent...

George used the 12-inch crescent wrench to vertically align the crossmember's mounting bolt-holes.

He put the crossmember and...

He put the crossmember and stock...

...rear brace mounting bolts...

...rear brace mounting bolts in place.

Oops, first align the bolt...

Oops, first align the bolt holes...

...and then bolt up.

The coilover shock mounting...

The coilover shock mounting points are shown. Note the pickup point for the track rod on the lower shock mount.

Here we see the differential...

Here we see the differential bolted into place.

After everything was bolted...

After everything was bolted into place, George checked that the rearend (differential) was centered.

This is how a properly installed...

This is how a properly installed TCI four-link kit should look. While unnecessary, you could weld it in afterward.