Fatman Fabrications - Bolt In Fatman's IFS - Tech

You have to ream or drill the entire passage, including the crossmember and gusset, after welding. It must fit nice and snug so even a very small amount of warp will bind the hardware up. Drill only just large enough to get the bolt through.

The upper A-arms were bolted on using Nyloks, so anti-seize was used. To get rough alignment, Pete added 1/4-3/8 inch of flat washers as shims.

The brake and spindle assemblies dropped on as units. We started the lower, then lifted the whole assembly up to attach at the top for the coilovers.

There is a spacer used on top of the ball-joint stud that rests above the spindle, not between the spindle and A-arm. This is used to space the castle nut up so it can be pinned.

Whether after installing a rack extension or just installing the dust boots, there is a spring clip on the outer end and a clamp on the inner. Make sure they are tight to protect the rack.

We set the rack so it was centered and the rotors so they were pointing straight ahead, then adjusted the tie-rods so they just fit into the steering arms. The tie-rods should thread on exactly the same number of turns on either side.

On the bottom edge of the rail you'll have to make a notch to clear the power-steering hose connections, as this dotted line shows.

On another truck you can see how the steering shaft requires another notch. Cut only as much as is needed to get about 1/8-inch clearance and you'll be fine.

The stainless steel-comprised IFS is ready to hang some tread and drop it on the ground. You've got to admit, even without paint, this looks leaps and bounds better than the OEM stuff.