You'll be impressed by the simplicity of this installation. There are always a hundred different ways such kits can be difficult to install or poorly designed, but the Fatman people appear to have nailed this one down quite well. Things fit, holes aligned, and it all went together like a precision puzzle.
Another attractive thing about the Fatman kits is their new cast-stainless A-arms. Surprisingly, they are supplied for the same price as fabricated tube arms available elsewhere. Volume is the secret; one pair is pretty expensive, but after the design and tooling are completed, a thousand pairs gets much less pricey. Add to that the rather clever scheme of fabricating one basic arm that will suit all the many Fatman kits, along with relatively inexpensive arm inserts to accommodate spring and shock variations and models, and you have a way to get stainless arms at a great price.
Finally, there is one important issue that really needs addressing. There are several places where large bolts are installed inside steel sleeves of one sort or another. Experience has taught that if you ever want to get the bolts in and out-especially after they've seen any weather-you'll make sure they are liberally coated with anti-seize. The Fatman kit contains several large, long bolts that really require the application of anti-seize because they are high-strength stainless steel. (No, regular mild stainless cannot safely be used for suspension.) If you fail to grease these up with plenty of anti-seize, you will at least damage the hardware, and at worst get it stuck in the bores so thoroughly you are unlikely to ever get it out again. All stainless, Nylok nuts, and hardware installed in sleeves or tubes require anti-seize to avoid serious problems.

The front of the frame is...

The front of the frame is ready to get the new IFS. This frame will get complete cosmetics later, but if you are doing this conversion in a semi-finished truck, you could stop here, clean and prime it all up, and get ready for finish later.

The old and the new: The new...

The old and the new: The new unit is not stamped steel, so it can be smaller and more compact without sacrificing strength. It also looks a lot cleaner.

Fatman's Pete and Jimmy lifted...

Fatman's Pete and Jimmy lifted the crossmember up under the rails and into place. A jack supports it until the first hardware is installed.

The bolt-holes align pretty...

The bolt-holes align pretty well. Use a pry-bar or a punch to help get alignment, and be prepared to ream a hole a little if the hardware is too tight a fit. You can usually get at least two bolts in on either side right up front.

Pete made sure the crossmember...

Pete made sure the crossmember was right and tight and then used a transfer punch to mark the holes that needed drilling.

Each hole was drilled through...

Each hole was drilled through the cross-member. The idea is not to wallow out the holes, but to keep them nice and snug fitting to the hardware. You don't want to be sloppy here.