1979 Chevy Silverado - Father Knows Best - Tech

Always use your old tie rods for length reference when assembling the new ones. Set your new assembly as close to the original length as possible; that way the frontend won't be too far out of whack when you drive it to the alignment shop.

One at a time, continue with your life-sized puzzle pieces.

The caliper assemblies bolt right to the previously installed brackets, and your new brake lines are a snap to swap out.

PST's G-Max front sway bar adds a great deal more control and stability. It requires just a slight amount of work to bolt in place of the smaller-diameter original.

The brackets require drilling a hole in the front edge of each lower control arm.

Moving on to the back, you can easily see this truck had a long-standing problem with leaking rearend fluid. You may also notice this one sports a heavy-duty rear axle package, so it's equipped with a Dana rear, even though it's only a 10-Series truck. On either side of the center section there's a factory weld that mates the actual center housing to the axle tubes. Somehow (like abuse maybe?) both welds were cracked, and gear oil leaked like crazy. Speaking of crazy, somebody tried to epoxy the welds-didn't work too well, though.

Once you strip the OEM brake assemblies, you'll be halfway home (well, almost).

Inside the housing, remove the lock bolt holding the pinion shaft in place.

Then you'll be able to slide the shaft free.