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LT1 Engine Build - Pull! Part 1Building a 475 Horse 383ci LT4 Powerhouse From the February, 2009 issue of Custom Classic Trucks By Jim Smart Photography by Jim Smart
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When Chevrolet introduced the 300-horse LT1 (gen II) fuel-injected small-block in the '92 Corvette, it was a more advanced Chevrolet V-8. The LT1 was a high-tech 350ci 5.7L small-block Chevy that was a cut above the Tuned Port Injected 5.0L small-block first introduced in '85. The TPI set a new benchmark for performance when it debuted in the IROC-Z Camaro. It offered outstanding performance coupled with something previously unheard of with high-performance V-8 engines: fuel economy. Port fuel injection coupled with roller-tappet technology made the TPI a quantum leap in performance. The LT1 took the TPI approach one step further, with features that made it a vastly improved small-block. The objective was cleaner emissions and greater sums of power. GM did away with the Chevy's rear HEI distributor and belt-driven water pump. Instead, it had a camshaft-driven, reverse-flow water pump, and something new in electronic engine control: Opti-spark, a pancake-style, light-triggered electronic distributor positioned beneath the cam-driven water pump. Reverse-flow cooling was adopted to compensate for the higher 10.5:1 compression ratio and leaner fuel mixtures. What would be Chevrolet's selling point in technology would also be the LT1's undoing to some degree. Optispark was plagued with reliability problems, which sidelined a lot of Corvettes, Camaros, Firebirds, and Impala SS models throughout the '90s. Oil leaks around the water pump drive not only spotted driveways, but also Chevrolet's great reputation for reliability and performance. Between GM's efforts (and the aftermarket's) these problems aren't what they used to be. However, they have become something to be mindful of during your build-up. Despite the LT1's engineering shortcomings, it was a terrific factory small-block sporting a nodular iron crank, powdered metal connecting rods, and hypereutectic pistons. In '92, the LT1 yielded 300 hp. By the end of production in '97, it was making 330 factory ponies in the LT4. GM made two types of LT1 blocks, two-bolt main and four-bolt main. Four-bolt-main versions were factory-installed in Corvettes primarily. But, be ready for a four-bolt-main block in just about anything. Because they both have the same casting number, they are impossible to identify without first removing the oil pan. Although most LT1 engines had aluminum heads, you need to be mindful there are LT1s with iron heads too (found in full-sized GM sedans of the era). Caprices had similar-looking small-blocks that weren't LT1s at all, but rather 265ci 4.3L engines. These guys are easily identified by their smaller 3.740-inch bores. When we first decided to build an LT1, we understood it was a significant turning point in the small-block Chevy's 37-year history. It would also be the small-block Chevrolet's curtain call--the tail of a very successful design run that would end at the 42-year mark. Incredible success by anyone's standards. We decided to build a solid, reliable LT1 383ci stroker small-block to see how much power we could make from GM's 5.7L small-block. Mark Jeffrey of Trans Am Racing in Gardena, California, volunteered to build our LT1, with the objective being 450 hp over a broad torque curve. Mark had Air Flow Research cylinder heads in mind for our LT1 build, along with an aggressive street cam package that would be good for the commute and the racetrack. However, we were thinking more along the lines of something stealthy--stock in appearance on the surface, using genuine GM parts as much as we could on this project. We contacted Summit Racing Equipment to see what it suggested. We also called Coast High Performance, MSD Ignition, and COMP Cams. Here's what happened.  Because we wanted our LT1...  Because we wanted our LT1 rather stealthy on the surface and mighty underneath, Summit suggested the GM Performance LT4 package for our LT1. This is the LT4 induction system with red powdercoating for a crisp look. Because we were building a 383ci stroker, Summit's technical people sent us 30 lb/hr Ford Racing fuel injectors. A larger BBK 58mm throttle body improves airflow and is compatible with the LT4 intake. An Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator arrived with the rest of the induction system. Tuning the regulator happens when we go to the dyno.  Externally, the GM Performance...  Externally, the GM Performance LT4 aluminum cylinder heads look the same as the LT1 castings. However, inside they yield sizable improvements, like larger sodium-filled 2.00-inch intake and 1.55-inch exhaust valves...  ...If you're feeling disappointed...  ...If you're feeling disappointed at these valve sizes, remember what they do for torque, which is paramount here....  ...This puts the compression...  ...This puts the compression around 10.8:1. Other improvements include larger ports with raised ceilings for better flow.  Mark Jeffrey suggested the...  Mark Jeffrey suggested the COMP Cams #07-000-8 hydraulic roller camshaft, a custom grind, for our LT4 conversion. He wanted something that would give our LT1 a broader torque curve beginning right off idle through 5,500 rpmThis cam gives the LT4 some lope at idle. It's a tolerable idle for a street engine that comes on like stink when the butterflies are opened. Mark also specified COMP Cams' new Beehive valvespring, which allowed us to take the LT1 to 6,500 rpm...  ...Because we're going to...  ...Because we're going to spin this thing high and are running aggressive lift, we opted for COMP Cams' best one-piece pushrods. Pro Magnum 1.6:1 roller rockers help ensure solid valvetrain reliability.  Summit Racing Equipment set...  Summit Racing Equipment set us up with this reverse-flow, cam-driven water pump specific to the '92-97 LT1 from GM Performance.  Fel-Pro gaskets from Summit...  Fel-Pro gaskets from Summit Racing Equip-ment provided us with everything we needed for engine assembly. We advise strong caution with the timing-cover seals. The water pump and Optispark drive seals are especially temperamental because they tear easily. Afford them plenty of lubrication and do your best to install the timing cover one time. Removal and reinstallation can cause seal damage--and oil leakage.  Machine work on the LT1 began...  Machine work on the LT1 began with measuring the bores, which came in at 4.000 inches when the block arrived...  ...L&R Auto-motive Supply...  ...L&R Auto-motive Supply Company bored the block to 4.025 inches. Another .005 inch was consumed in the honing process...  ...A torque plate was used...  ...A torque plate was used for honing to get the block dimensionally where it will be with cylinder heads installed. Remember, cylinder bores change dimension-ally when we torque the heads.  L&R had checked our line bore,...  L&R had checked our line bore, which is within limits. Because we wanted the main bearings to seat comfortably and remain solid, we line-hond the saddles. This began with milling the main caps, then installing and torquing them to spec. Once torqued, we honed them back to size.  With the cylinders honed to...  With the cylinders honed to 4.030 inches and some change, we were ready to cut the block decks to offer our new LT4 heads a smooth mating surface. L&R did three passes for a total of .010 inch removed.  Our 383ci stroker package...  Our 383ci stroker package from Coast High Performance includes a 4340 steel crankshaft, brute I-beam rods, and Probe 4.030-inch forged pistons. These guys arrived as flat tops with valve reliefs...  ...Because Mark was very concerned...  ...Because Mark was very concerned about compression, he dished these slugs, getting the compression to 10.8:1. Here, L&R dynamic-balances the bottom end--which is internally balanced. This means we don't need the balancer and flexplate for balancing.  L&R did a magnificent job...  L&R did a magnificent job on our 10125327 LT1. Trans Am Racing did the rest, carefully massaging the oil drain backs, main saddles, and other areas that could prove problematic. Mark likes to use GE's Glyptal 1201-A red insulating enamel from The Eastwood Company on internal iron and aluminum surfaces to improve oil drainback and keep microscopic particles where they belong...  ...This is our machined and...  ...This is our machined and prepped block with two-bolt mains. The LT1 mission is what makes this block decidedly different than a conventional 350 Chevrolet. Note the front of the block, designed for the reverse-flow, cam-driven water pump and Optispark gear drive.  Mark checked the main saddles,...  Mark checked the main saddles, crank, and bearings for proper dimensions and does a mock-up before final assembly. Mocking up a block makes more sense than to discover you have bigger problems later on. Mark had to notch the block some more to clear the rod bolts.  The bearings were installed...  The bearings were installed bone-dry to ensure security, with absolutely no lubrication between the bearings and the block. Mark checked the oil holes for proper alignment. The bearings are lubricated with engine assembly lube when the crank is installed.  Main cap bolts were lubricated,...  Main cap bolts were lubricated, installed, and torqued to 65-75 ft-lb for a main-bearing check. Mark later decided to go with ARP main studs instead of bolts for a more rigid package down under.  Mark checked crank main bearing...  Mark checked crank main bearing clearances with a dial-bore gauge and micrometer...  ...General rule of thumb is...  ...General rule of thumb is .002-.0035 inch for street use and .0025-.0037 inch for high-performance use...  ...Mark opted for .0025-.0037...  ...Mark opted for .0025-.0037 inch and carefully documented these numbers.  Before the crank was installed,...  Before the crank was installed, Mark lubed and installed the COMP Cams 07-000-8 hydraulic- roller camshaft. Because this is a roller cam, the lobes and journals get the same engine-assembly lube...  ...Check out the LT1-unique...  ...Check out the LT1-unique cam sprocket and chain package designed for the cam-driven water pump and Optispark ignition.  Mark gave both ends of the...  Mark gave both ends of the 4340 crank a whack to center the thrust bearing before torquing the main caps. Torque is 65-75 ft-lb. Begin at the center cap and torque in thirds-- first 25 ft-lb, then 45, then the maximum...  ...Go back and check your...  ...Go back and check your work, marking each cap with a marker when torquing is complete.  Crankshaft endplay was checked...  Crankshaft endplay was checked next. Endplay should be between .004 and .007 inch.  Before we installed the pistons...  Before we installed the pistons and rods, bore sizing was double-checked. Mark never trusts machine-shop work at face value...  ...He checks --plus he rechecks...  ...He checks --plus he rechecks his own work--twice.  Rods were fitted with bearings...  Rods were fitted with bearings and bearing clearances were checked before pistons and rods were installed...  ...Because rod journals run...  ...Because rod journals run considerably hotter than main journals, clearances tend to run looser at .0017-.003 inch for street and .002-.003 inch for high-performance use.  Mark checked the ring end...  Mark checked the ring end gap for proper clearance. Then he tailored the edges for smooth operation...  ...There are two ways to install...  ...There are two ways to install piston rings. You can roll the rings on like this or use a ring expander...  ...We suggest the ring expander...  ...We suggest the ring expander for best results. There's less ring distortion that way.  After Mark coated the cylinder...  After Mark coated the cylinder wall and rings with 30-weight engine oil, he used this groovy billet piston ring compressor to install the piston and rod. You don't want much oil behind the rings. This causes carbon buildup behind the ring when the engine is fired. Just bathe the rings in engine oil before they're installed. That's plenty. If you are running a stock rod, remember to cover the rod bolts with rod bolt condoms to protect the cylinder wall and rod journal. It takes very little pressure to damage these surfaces.  In this 383ci stroker application,...  In this 383ci stroker application, we have capscrews instead of conventional press-in rod bolts. Our 3/8-inch capscrews are much stronger and torqued to 45 ft-lb.  Mark slowly rotated the crank...  Mark slowly rotated the crank with one piston/ rod installed to check block clearances. You need to have a minimum of .050-inch between the rod bolt and the block. Our LT4 short-block is assembled and ready for completion. Next time, we're going to do some port work on the LT4 heads for remarkable gains in flow. Then we'll finish engine assembly and spin this guy on the dyno. We're going to show you what kind of power can be made from your own LT1 small-block on the Westech dyno. | Part No: 07-000-8 | | Grind Number: LT1 3192S / 3192S HR110.0 | | Serial Number: F-9284-05 | | | Intake | Exhaust | | Gross Valve Lift | .568 inch | .568 inch | | Lobe Lift | .3790 inch | .3790 inch | | Duration at .006 inch | 275 degrees | 275 degrees | | Duration at .050 inch | 224 degrees | 224 degrees | | Intake Centerline: | 106.0 degrees | | Lobe Separation: | 110.0 degrees |
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The Thinker??? - Haul Monitor
Ryan talks about the friendly badgering that goes on around the shop and overcoming obstacles that seemly pop up out of nowhere during a project....
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