Over the past weeks Speed...
Over the past weeks Speed O' Motive machined the rotating assembly to balance each piston to within 1/2 gram (about the weight of a dollar bill). To speed up our time in the shop, all but one of the JE pistons and rods were installed in the block.
In the February '05 issue of CCT we published the first segment of a tech story where speed shop, Speed O' Motive, began the process of building a stroked Ford 351 Windsor engine. This issue we continue with the assembly of the stroked 418ci Ford and offer a few professional build tips from one of Speed O' Motive's engine builders, Bill Bassett.
The primary reason we've pursued this engine buildup is to demonstrate the significantly more powerful alternative to a typical crate engine. We believe that by carefully selecting an affordable list of aftermarket parts, you can build and install an engine that will deliver an exceptional amount of power and reliability for a rather reasonable price. Another more personal reason is that we've never owned a stroked Ford engine and wanted to experience what is typically the domain of the higher- performance street machine or race car.
It was a pleasant learning experience watching a professional engine builder assemble our machined rotating assembly, oiling system, aluminum Holley heads and carburetor, and Weiand intake manifold. We photographed each step and listened attentively as Bill explained the details that will result in the greatest amount of performance and reliability this stroked engine is capable of producing. One piston-assembly tip was rotating the piston rings away from the thrust-side of the pistons to prevent a loss of compression. Another little tip was using a single-edge razor blade to cut the bottom ends from the front cover gasket: to help prevent even a small oil leak from around the oil pan gasket.
We were pleased to find a...
We were pleased to find a wind-age tray and set of windage-tray studs in the rear sump Milodon oil-pan set (PN: 31126) that will allow a small-block Ford to be mounted in a street rod or street Mustang application. These pans feature a late-model Ford leak-proof dipstick fitting that screws into the pan.
The high-performance, forged...
The high-performance, forged J&E pistons, combined with the I-beam connecting rods (6.200-inch length) will be the foundation of our stroked 351W to 418 ci. The connecting rod is 1/4-inch longer than the stock connecting rod.
Among the aftermarket parts used in this segment is an extremely competent oiling system of Melling oil pump, oil pump shaft, plus an anodized Milodon oil pan and windage tray-as well as all the bottom-end gaskets. Of course all the proper assembly lubes and gasket sealer were applied to each part as it was assembled. The last thing any engine builder wants to hear is the tick-tick-tick of a cylinder head leak or witness a drop of oil escaping from the oil pan gasket.
Follow along as we watch a professional assemble our potent little powerplant. And look for the next segment when we will focus on a series of dynamometer tests to see precisely how many horses and how much torque this small-block Ford engine will produce.
Bill added a pre-lube to each...
Bill added a pre-lube to each cylinder before the piston was installed-we don't want any dry cylinders the first time we start the engine.
Bill slid the ring compressor...
Bill slid the ring compressor onto the piston. Notice the blue rubber covering the threads of the connecting rod. They will help prevent even the slightest damage to the crankshaft.
The piston, connecting rod,...
The piston, connecting rod, and piston ring compressor were placed gently into the cylinder. Notice the rubber-covered brass mallet in Bill's hand to coax the piston down in the cylinder.
Just a few taps of the handle-end...
Just a few taps of the handle-end of the mallet pushed the piston past the ring compressor and down into the cylinder.
Bill turned the engine block...
Bill turned the engine block upside down and directed the connecting rod into place to add the connecting-rod cap.
Bill added plenty of pre-lube...
Bill added plenty of pre-lube to the bearing-side of the connecting rod. Again, you can't use too much pre-lube on bearing surfaces during assembly.
With the connecting-rod cap...
With the connecting-rod cap in place, Bill torqued the rod-cap bolts down to 50 ft-lb. He then rotated the crankshaft two complete rotations. He will rotate the crankshaft many more times during the assembly process to check for clearance-an important process with a stroked engine.
While the engine was crankshaft-side...
While the engine was crankshaft-side up, Bill applied the torque wrench to the extended main bolts that will provide a place to attach the Milodon windage tray.
The next step of the assembly...
The next step of the assembly was the preparation of the front/timing-chain cover. The alumi-num front cover was equipped with a hole for a front-mounted dipstick. Bill prefers to tap and thread this hole for a plug and use an oil pan dipstick instead.
A small plug with Loctite...
A small plug with Loctite will prevent any oil escaping from this hole.
The front cover has an O-ring...
The front cover has an O-ring seal that needs a little bit of gasket sealer on the rim surface.
The first attempt to install...
The first attempt to install the O-ring was not going well. In order to avoid damage to the O-ring, Bill showed us a small but valuable builder's tip.