The trucks covered in this magazine are often modified in subtle ways that can escape our immediate attention. One popular modification to the abundant late-'40s and early-'50s Chevy and GMC pickups is to clean up the grille and bumper with a minor change that requires exposing the bottom grille bar behind the bumper. This modification does not change the looks greatly but does make the grille appear more delicate and less beefy.
We gathered a number of tools...
We gathered a number of tools together to tackle the task at hand: a pair of tin snips, a saber saw, a hammer and dolly, a roll of 2-inch masking tape for marking the piece to be removed, and a set of welding clamps. A Miller 110 MIG welder will apply the heat for welding the pieces together.
We began by marking the fenders...
We began by marking the fenders with 2-inch-wide masking tape. We marked both the driver and passenger fenders at the cut point for the section job. In this situation, we're removing 2 inches of material to shorten the fender in overall height.
Using a saber saw, we cut...
Using a saber saw, we cut the lower portion of the fender away from the bottom line of the 2-inch masking tape. This lower piece of metal will be re-attached when the 2-inch section of metal is removed.
We elected to cut the top...
We elected to cut the top line (above the 2-inch tape) with tin snips or metal shears. The shears will cut a straight line better than the saber saw. The masking tape is covering the portion of metal that will be eliminated from the fender.
The builders at Posies Hot Rod shop in Hummelstown, Pennsylvania, have such a project '54 Chevy truck in-house owned by long-time truck enthusiast Bob Fitch. Bob's truck is coming along with a number of custom modifications that will not destroy the original character of the truck, but just make it look a bit neater and lower to the ground.
For those of you who would like to know what's involved in making this change, check out the well-documented process (shown here) of shortening the front fenders. Other modifications are planned for the future. The Posies crew will raise the running boards to eliminate the space below the cab doors above the running boards. They are also adding a side marker that works as a turn indicator. Follow along as the crew at Posies crafts another custom Chevy truck.
We trimmed a few minor rough...
We trimmed a few minor rough areas to improve the way the edges lined up with each other. The bottom is in the left hand. This piece will be welded back on to finish the bottom of the fender in a way that might go unnoticed.
Because we're removing 2 inches...
Because we're removing 2 inches of length, the fender bead will not line up. We'll have to split the bottom piece and add material to remedy the problem.
We split the bottom piece...
We split the bottom piece (down the middle) at the flattest spot near the center.
We used some small welding...
We used some small welding clamps to hold the various parts in place. The nice thing about the clamps is they keep all the fender surfaces in perfect position for tack-welding.
Next, we lined up the two...
Next, we lined up the two pieces of the bottom of the fender-one flush to the center edge of the fender and one piece flush with the wheelwell bead.
With the two halves of the...
With the two halves of the lower fender piece properly located, we see a gap in the center that will require a small filler section.
The jig clamps hold the two...
The jig clamps hold the two halves perfectly in place, allowing us to accurately measure the gap between the two pieces.
We cut a filler piece of 20-gauge...
We cut a filler piece of 20-gauge steel and clamped it in place with more traditional sheetmetal clamps.
As we were getting ready to...
As we were getting ready to weld, we checked all the seams for the proper welding gap. Notice that the ground clamp is connected to the bare metal filler piece.
We began tack-welding along...
We began tack-welding along the seam that joined the two pieces of original sheetmetal. The welds were spaced 1-inch apart to prevent excessive heat buildup.
The spot welds are kept small...
The spot welds are kept small to prevent heat buildup. As we filled in between the clamps, we began to remove the clamps that were in the way.
With all the clamps removed,...
With all the clamps removed, we used a rotary air tool with a sanding wheel to grind the spot welds smooth.
The spot welds are ground...
The spot welds are ground smooth and we're ready to finish welding the seams.
Our Miller MIG welder made...
Our Miller MIG welder made quick work of finishing the weld bead with good heat penetration. Notice how evenly the heat was absorbed across the painted fender surface.
Lastly, we rolled the filler...
Lastly, we rolled the filler piece under the bottom bead and ground the weld smooth. This shot shows a thin coat of PPG 171-172 Etch Primer sprayed over the smoothed weld area. Now the surface can be prepared for high-build primer and any necessary filler.
The fifth (bottom) grille...
The fifth (bottom) grille bar is now exposed, and the fenders look like they came this length from the factory. After the truck is lowered to the final ride height, the front will take on a more horizontal appearance.